L.E.D. Bulb Conversion/Cross Reference List

[Tropical Bob]

Here's a list for all the 2000-2006 S.U.V.'s that are wanting to do the LED conversion to your interior and puddle lights. My info is coming from www.SuperBrightLEDs.com . I am in no way affiliated with them, but I've been ordering bulbs from them for 5+ years with no problems what so ever. Fast shipping, 1 year warranty, etc.



Doors - 2 - Get the 194 WLED-x-x LED bulbs 120 degree angle. Getting brighter ones doesn't do any good.

Colors:
Red
Amber
White
Blue
Green
UV Blacklight

Map Lights - 2 - Get the WLED-x6 LED bulbs. Because the plastic shield goes around them, there is no difference if you get the high powered ones, so don't waste your money.

Colors:
Red
Amber
Cool White (Blueish White)
Natural White (Regular White)
Warm White (Yellowish White)
Blue
Green
UV Blacklight

Puddle Lights - 2 - These go under your outside side mirrors. Get the festoon 42mm 4210-xHP6 high powered bulbs. They are a little trouble getting them in and then aimed correctly, but they make a world of difference.

Colors:
Cool White Cool White (Blueish White)
Warm White (Yellowish White)

License Plate Lights - 2 - Get the same 194 WLED-x-x LED 120 degree angle bulbs as the doors. Getting brighter ones doesn't do any good.

Colors:
Red
Amber
White
Blue
Green
UV Blacklight

2nd and 3rd rows...

Dome Lights - 2 - (the middle bulbs that turn on with the doors) Get the same festoon 42mm 4210-xHP6 High powered bulbs as the puddles

Colors:
Cool White Cool White (Blueish White)
Warm White (Yellowish White)

Dome Switched Lights - 4 - For the left and right side bulbs that come on with the button, you can just get the festoon 4410-x9 LED bulb, because you hardly ever use them and they are $12 cheaper per bulb then the high powered...

Colors:
Red
Amber
Cool White (Blueish White)
Natural White (Regular White)
Warm White (Yellowish White)
Blue
Green
UV Blacklight

SO.... If your going to order all these bulbs, you'll want to get;


4 - 194 WLED-x-x LED bulbs (Doors & license plate)

2 - WLED-x6 LED bulbs (Map lights)

4 - Festoon 42mm 4210-xHP6 High powered bulbs (puddles & Domes)

4 - Festoon 4410-x9 LED bulbs (Dome switched lights)

Let me know if I forgot anything or need to add anything.

Good luck!!!


Nathan

 

[Tropical Bob]

What is the part number for the dash bulbs? ( x6 ) Instrument panel.

 

[MrBalll]

What is the part number for the dash bulbs? ( x6 ) Instrument panel.

Depends on what year vehicle you have. Some are screw in bulbs and some are soldered in connections.

 

[Archer04]

The under the hood light is a bit tricky I am still researching it, I tried a standard 3 mm white LED, but the problem is the light is not grounded to the hood latch so it stayed on continually. The light that was under the hood was out, but once I got it out of the truck and could get a good look at it. I saw it had a mercury bubble in it. This is how the light was designed to ground out when the hood was closed. When you lower the hood the bubble rolls forward and the connection for power is lost, when you open the hood the bubble rolls back and the mercury makes a connector switch for the power to cross over and turn the light on. This may have been an after market light that a previous owner had installed. So I am still researching like I said for a better under the hood light.

 

[Jay R Lawson]

Very informative.When you say door lights. What exactly do you mean?

 

[MrBalll]

Very informative.When you say door lights. What exactly do you mean?

As there is 23 pages of info and you didn't specify any specific post I'm not too sure what you are asking about. This is my best guess for 'door' lights that you are asking about. Only interior lights on our door aside from the exterior puddle lights.

 

[Jay R Lawson]

Awesome. Thanks

 

[auripod]

If we are talking about LED lamps, then you should definitely know that the main advantage in their regard is that they significantly reduce electricity consumption. Low power consumption. LED lamps are much more economical than their predecessors. The electricity consumption of such lamps is 10 times less than that of models equipped with incandescent lamps. And even ordinary economical lamps consume three times more LEDs at a similar lighting intensity. Think about purchasing them with the help of special sites.

 

[MassHoe04]

If we are talking about LED lamps, then you should definitely know that the main advantage in their regard is that they significantly reduce electricity consumption.

Looked at the socket on a daytime running light that went out. May have happened with a PO, but the sockets were a little scorched. Rather than standard replacement #3157 bulb, which can draw up to almost 27 watts each, I replaced with thes LED from NAPA.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=LMP%20BP3157LEDN&referer=v2

I figured it would be much better to go with 2 watts each instead of almost 27 each.

They work and look good and bright.

Hopefully, inspectors for RMV safety inspection don't give a hard time because they are not the OE bulb. (Package has super-fine disclaimer that they are "for off-road use only...".

If the point of DRL is to be seen in daylight, I would think LED being brighter than incandescent would be better in that case. I don't think they would say I need to revert back to dimmer bulbs, but I do have a set to pop in, if they reject for any reason.

 

[S33k3r]

I don't know that daytime running lights are actually legislated anywhere, so it shouldn't matter. Not a lawyer, though.

 

[Scott in AZ]

I used similar LED bulbs in all the interior overhead dome lights, courtesy lights and map lights. I used these new fixtures on the puddle lights under the side view mirrors. They replaced the 21-year old brittle plastic fixtures. I also used new LED fixtures on the door courtesy lights, replaced the entire fixture housing, because one of my housings was long since crack and gone.

But OP is right. LED interior (and exterior, except brake and flashers, keep incandescent) is one of the easiest, most economical and most impactful upgrades we can make.

And a question - Every interior bulb (and exterior) is swapped out, except ashtray and glove box. But I still have not been able to get the ashtray bulb and the glove box bulb out. I’m afraid I’ll shatter them if I clinch on them any harder. Any tips?

 

[Mean_Green]

I did these for the door mounted courtesy lights. The red end lights up too instead of being just a reflector.

 

[S33k3r]

I did these for the door mounted courtesy lights. The red end lights up too instead of being just a reflector.

View attachment 399378

I'm trying to figure out how to convert my rear passenger doors to lights instead of reflectors. I know it's a different harness for those doors, but I have been unlucky in trying to find the harness that those door harnesses plug into.

Someone in the forum got the harnesses off the doors, but then ran power and ground to the same connections as the front door. I want to get the harness to keep it factory.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[ncalvo]

I replaced all my interior lights with LEDs.
The vanity mirror bulbs and the MAP lights up front for driver and passenger seat did not like being LED.
The vanity mirror would flicker on and off, and the map lights were extremely dim, so I went back to stock for those. The rest of the truck function fine with LED.

 

[Bingus24]

any tips for the doors and map lights? I havent checked but they look a little harder. Do you need to remove the whole door panel? and what about those footwell lights?

the door lights in my case i bought a whole new housing with built in LEDs (most of my stock housings were either missing or broken) i think you should be fine with the interior clip removal kits or a flathead screwdriver. as for the map lights, a little bit of force and a flathead screwdriver should work, not too much or you might break the lens for em'