It's about time for a 6.0

[ScottyBoy]

I have wanted a 6.0 for a few years now, ever since I first got my Bleackbear tune back in 2010 and I was bitten by the "mo powa" bug. But it's all been hopes and dreams mostly since I'm a poor broke sumbitch who never has any extra money available for mods. Well... Now my stock 5.3 is getting a bad lifter tap. Some days it a lot worse and sounds almost like a knock. But it usually goes away after about 5 minutes or so of letting the engine warm up and getting things moving. I really don't wanna rebuild a 5.3, so it's time to start searching for a lq4 or lq9 engine. I am also learning more and more about the performance upgrades available. I know I can get long tubes and a cam, and update my tune, but I am clueless on what cam to go with. You ask a thousand people and they will all suggest 1,000 different cams. So the search begins and the parts aquiring process begins. I'm hoping to find a GOOD condition low mile 6.0, or else a good core that I can have rebuilt. I do plan on doing a MILD cam and LT headers, but I really don't wanna do a stall or swap to a 4L80 transmission (not yet at least). I plan on doing a really mild street build as this is my daily driver and family hauler. I still take it on road trips at least twice a year, so I need to keep that in mind when selecting a cam I guess.
Wish me luck!!

 

[07Burb]

I'm in for this! Please keep this thread updated as you acquire parts and commence with the build

 

[ScottyBoy]

I'm still in the research stage, doing my homework. But it's definitely gonna happen. I have $3500 set aside to get started. I feel like I will easily blow that budget, but I will try to not go overboard too much. My first order of business is to locate a suitable donor engine where I won't have to drive 6 hours to pick it up, or pay a fortune to have it shipped.

 

[07Burb]

Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised if you end up in the $5k range but still well worth it in that range IMO Especially if you like your Burb and plan to keep it. Cheaper than buying something new

 

[ezdaar]

LQ9 short block and L92 top end.
Toss in a decent cam and your very close to or over 500.

Done and done.

 

[01TX_Tahoe]

Interesting thread... Since my original motor is coming up on 200k miles, I've been thinking about getting a 6.0L also but like Scottyboy, I'm on a budget too. And with one kid in college, one in highschool and a teenage daughter, I'm really broke and my budget is really tight! Be interesting to see how much you pick one up for.

 

[Tahoewhat]

That sucks Scott, but at least your going bigger with it. Waiting for mine to start doing anything so I can slap in 6.0 or 6.2 or 7.0 (ha ha)

going to sub to this for sure, keep us in the loop.

LQ9 short block and L92 top end.
Toss in a decent cam and your very close to or over 500.

Done and done.

Eh.. this man may be on to someting here, but not sure..

 

[JKmotorsports]

Awesome. Good luck on the build. Keep searching and you'll eventually come across a good deal on a motor. I picked up a LQ9 from an Escalade for $1300 and only 34k miles. An elderly couple owned it and it was regularly taken in for scheduled maintenance, and when I tore the motor down for inspection, you could tell they weren't lying; almost looked like a new engine inside. Anyway, you can keep the 6.0 swap under $4k even with basic add-ons like headers, cam, tune, etc. and if you perform all your own labor. But it will add up quick if want more power and if you have to pay someone to do some of the work for you. My 6.0 build totaled out to just under $10k and that's with no labor cost since I did all the work myself. Also keep in mind, the more power you add, the more you'll have to spend beefing up the rest of the drivetrain. Don't make it so aggressive and the drivetrain will last a little longer than if you were to stay somewhat mild. I'm on transmission #4, 3rd set of gears, 2nd set of axles, and 2nd posi-unit. Lots of weight + big wheels + gobs of hp/tq = broken parts. Just another thing to keep in mind while you're planning out your build and budget. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[07Burb]

He's Alive!!! Happy to see you post and happy you still have the Hoe, Jeff

 

[Pachanga02]

In for this. Good luck with it Scott.

 

[Justinj360]

The engine knock you hear when the engine is cold and then goes away completely when it warms up is normal for these engines. Something about piston slap and cylinder walls. I read a GM service bulletin about it. I can't find the site I read it on a while ago but this forum does a good job of explaining it. My 2004 Yukon does it, my mom's 99 Silverado does it, and my dad's 2006 Silverado does it. My mom's sounds like a diesel some mornings and then goes away like nothing was ever wrong.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/166511-engine-knock/

 

[about20ninj45]

A cam, (228/232 and it wont be snotty), and a good set of heads (port and polish 317's or 243 ) will get you just over 400 (at the wheels).

 

[ScottyBoy]

Somewhat of a standstill because I still have not found a suitable engine for a decent price. I refuse to pay $2k for a damn used engine with god knows how many miles on it. And that's what all these fuqers wanna charge.
5.3's are a dime a dozen and can be had as low as $300-$400 for a complete engine. But people wanna charge more than three times as much for a LQ4, and even much more for a LQ9.

---------- Post added at 08:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:37 AM ----------

The engine knock you hear when the engine is cold and then goes away completely when it warms up is normal for these engines. Something about piston slap and cylinder walls. I read a GM service bulletin about it. I can't find the site I read it on a while ago but this forum does a good job of explaining it. My 2004 Yukon does it, my mom's 99 Silverado does it, and my dad's 2006 Silverado does it. My mom's sounds like a diesel some mornings and then goes away like nothing was ever wrong.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/166511-engine-knock/

I know the cold start knock you are referring to. My truck has had that since I first bought it. But the lifter noise I have now is something totally different. Sometimes it sticks and sometimes it doesn't. Temperature doesn't seem to matter. Only common thing I have noticed is that the lifter only sticks when the truck has been parked for at least 8 hours or more. I've never had it stick yet if the engine has only been shut off for 2-3 hours or less. I'm guessing the oil drains completely down in about 7-8 hours and then that will allow the lifter to get stuck when I start the engine again.

 

[07Burb]

I've heard recently that LQ4s and LQ9s are getting somewhat hard to find for whatever reason. Maybe price is sky rocketing due to demand

 

[about20ninj45]

I've heard recently that LQ4s and LQ9s are getting somewhat hard to find for whatever reason. Maybe price is sky rocketing due to demand

lq4 and lq9 engines near me only go for 300-700 for a complete engine. Hell, from the junkyard with 80000 miles your looking at 900

 

[ScottyBoy]

lq4 and lq9 engines near me only go for 300-700 for a complete engine. Hell, from the junkyard with 80000 miles your looking at 900

Where at? If it's within a days drive from me, I'll come git one!

 

[about20ninj45]

Where at? If it's within a days drive from me, I'll come git one!

Michigan, Ann Arborish

 

[ezdaar]

Ship it. its still cheaper than whats available to you.

 

[about20ninj45]

Ship it. its still cheaper than whats available to you.

I just got done looking at an ls2 block....for 700, and i know i can talk him down...tempting ...tempting lol

 

[ScottyBoy]

Not buying an engine from Michigan. I have seen some from Michigan and Indiana for sale on eBay. The block was full of rust on each one. And I'm not talking about just surface rust here, big thick scaly chunks of rust. Looked like a Relic from the Titanic. Last thing I need is to hit a bump and a chunk of my engine block falls off. Fuuuuuuuuck that.