Is my 5.7 too tight?

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redwing4900

redwing4900

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Well one quick search and i found that it's for remote start there is a code alarm unit under the dash too but disconnected. Can this be removed pretty easily?
This was the spider injector installed the other day.

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exp500

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Good job! Glad to see you are moving forward. Are you still having any Problems?
 
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redwing4900

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Good job! Glad to see you are moving forward. Are you still having any Problems?
Yes i was not liking the stench of gas from the catalytic converters being cut out So i bought new Magnaflow converters and exhaust as well as new manifolds and sensors too. Now it runs much smoother and quieter and the smell is MUCH better.
At first there was a lot of smoke and it seemed way too rich but the longer i ran it the better it got. Scanner was i think correctly drifting back and forth between rich and lean mixture it also said 14.7 to 1 fuel to air ratio curious if that is good? I will get the rear main seal changed tomorrow and then a brake line or two to change and then she'll be back into service.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Yes i was not liking the stench of gas from the catalytic converters being cut out So i bought new Magnaflow converters and exhaust as well as new manifolds and sensors too. Now it runs much smoother and quieter and the smell is MUCH better.
At first there was a lot of smoke and it seemed way too rich but the longer i ran it the better it got. Scanner was i think correctly drifting back and forth between rich and lean mixture it also said 14.7 to 1 fuel to air ratio curious if that is good? I will get the rear main seal changed tomorrow and then a brake line or two to change and then she'll be back into service.

Assuming you meant 14.7:1 air to fuel, yes. Perfect, actually. That's the ratio your engine is striving for.
 
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redwing4900

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Assuming you meant 14.7:1 air to fuel, yes. Perfect, actually. That's the ratio your engine is striving for.
Awesome i couldn't remember how it was on the scanner so it must be air to fuel thank you.
I'm wondering if the fuel tank pressure sensor low voltage (code 0452) is always a fuel pump gone bad? That's my only remaining fault code.
 

Sean James

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Fuel tank pressure sensor code is usually a couple of things. Could be as simple as the gas cap. Or it could be as simple as the charcoal canister valve or it's wiring and/or the valve switch. Or a bad plastic hose going to the canister or to the intake, check for cracked plastic hoses going to the canister. Most likely it's NOT the fuel pump if you can hear the pump whine when you turn the key to the ON position. You can check the evaporative canister switch by applying power to it and see if it clicks open and closed. The computer opens and closes the valve as you are driving down the road to clear out the charcoal of gasoline fumes. Then when it's parked as the tank get warm, the gasoline fumes expand and must vent somewhere...they go to the charcoal canister and are held there until you drive the car again, then the valve on the canister opens and engine vacuum sucks in the fumes and they are burned with the gasoline, then the charcoal tank is ready to accept and hold a fresh dose of gasoline vapors.

It is a sealed system to prevent gasoline fumes from evaporating into the atmosphere, gasoline fumes expand when going from cold at night, to warm during the day. (ever opened a 5 gallon gas can and WHOOSH!) If you open / remove your gas cap when it is hot out, and hear air/gas vapors rushing out of the gas cap, you have a defective system. Also don't over fill your tank with fuel, when the nozzle clicks off once at the gas pump, your done, leave it, don't keep trying to pump in another few cups by pulling the pump nozzle lever a bunch of times.

It's usually a cheap and easy fix... gas cap, or canister valve, valve wires, or plastic hoses bad, cracked, or incorrectly installed. The only pain is if it's the plastic tubing that goes from the top of the fuel tank up into the engine bay and charcoal canister. If that is cracked or broken, or was not installed correctly during a previous fuel pump installation, then you will have to drop the tank.
 

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Also, fuel pumps usually get real noisy before they die, not always, but if you can hear the pump running while driving down the road, it usually means it's dying a slow death. A good fuel pump should not make a noticeable sound when driving down the road. The only time you should hear it, is when you first turn the key to the "on" position, and it pumps up the pressure then stops. That is also the best way to start your car. Turn the key to the ON position, wait 2 seconds, then turn the key to the START position. Your letting the fuel pump build pressure in the fuel system first, then when the starter engages, everything is pressurized and ready to fire up immediatly.
 
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redwing4900

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As a matter of closure I wanted to let everyone know the answer to this thread question is : NO not too tight.
And as for an update I had the rear main seal changed but I was still having an oil leak turns out that the engine shop gave me normal threaded plugs not tapered thread ones for the three oil galley plugs above the cam plug causing a sizable oil leak. The shop changed out the plugs for the correct ones and it's been great since: no oil. Very frustrating but I'm happy that's behind me. I also didn't put loctite on the flex plate bolts so in a way I'm glad they pulled the transmission to check things over and reinstall things correctly for me. First week I had the Yukon back I changed a rear brake line that was broke and bled the brakes drove 30 miles and picked up a boat that I bought. Yukon ran great I didn't want to push her too much. That day is coming I have about 360 miles on her thus far. I want to thank everyone for your input this site is a wealth of information that still provides me guidance now that I'm almost at the end of my restore. Thanks again.
 

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