Input or advice from others on cam swap for 6.2L 2011 Yukon Denali

[Denaliz]

Looking for info or feedback from others who have been down this road of cam upgrade/swap on the 07-14 6.2L’s. I’ll have long tube headers installed at same time I believe. I’ll need to replenish my play money account before the supercharger which should come around end of 2021 at latest.

Goal for my Denali is to be a fun around town driver capable of longer trips occasionally (traveling to car audio shows mainly but around town driver for most part. Wanting to giddy up when needed and have a fast 6k pound hog of a suv to race around a lil on Streets but mainly have fun driving and toying with others

I’m the original owner and do have another primary vehicle. (I still end up in my Denali most days because I like it more than other vehicles I have- cray huh?)

I’m for sure using Texas Speed and Performance I think and going with one of their cam packages. My signature should have vehicle mods so far if needed.

The plan is to do TSP Cam Package and Long tube headers then supercharger towards end of year

below is what TSP recommended I do based on them reviewing my rpo codes and what I’m wanting:


Ok the l94 6.2 has both vvt and afm/dod. I would recommend removing both for the best performance and tuning.

Our stg1 l92 cam is the best option there.

Cam kit
Add 216/228 cam in drop down
Leave rest as is
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-249-t...-for-rectangular-port-heads-ls3l92lsal76.aspx

Dod delete
Add 0046 head gaskets
Add 6504 lifters
Add l92 valley
Add head bolts
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7379-...ce-dod-afm-delete-kit-for-536062-engines.aspx

Vvt Delete
Leave as is
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-724-vvt-delete-kit.aspx

 

[Geotrash]

That looks like a great setup. I especially like the integrated seals/seats that are designed for dual valve springs. Hassle saver right there. Looks like they’re recommending the Morel 6504 lifters, which I also agree with. I have them in mine and they’re terrific.

I cam swapped my 6.2 in December/January. Lots of lessons learned, and all chronicled here in this thread if you’re interested:

2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=17772&share_tid=121671&url=https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/index.php?threads/2012-Yukon-XL-Denali-6.2L-Cam-Swap-Thread.121671/&share_type=t&link_source=app

I’ll be following your progress and happy to answer any questions I can along the way. I ended up with a Brian Tooley Racing stage 2 truck cam and I’m very happy with it. Hopefully @ls1frc will chime in, too.

Edit: a couple of other things come to mind based on the links you sent. I didn't like any of the "kits" from any of the vendors because I preferred to have the very best of each component, and all of the kits made compromises. For example, I chose ARP head bolts, timing sprocket bolts, and harmonic balancer bolt because they're all reusable and made of top quality engineered alloys, and can be torqued readily without the clumsy 'torque-to-yield' process that others require. In my build thread I have the links to all of the parts I used toward the end of the thread.

You might also consider dropping the pan and replacing the oil pump. I used a Melling high volume pump and am really glad I did. As it turns out, the original with 115K on it wouldn't maintain the pressure I needed with the new setup. I never determined conclusively whether it was the o-ring or something else that kept the original pump from working as well as it should have, but I have great pressure now with the new pump. Also, "while you're in there", you might as well plug the port for the pressure relief valve in the oil pan. Without AFM or VVT, it serves no purpose and is a pressure leak waiting to happen.

Finally, you might as well buy a new water pump and also replace the oil pressure sensor and delete the screen beneath it. It's also a great time to do the plugs and wires.

 

[wsteele]

Looking for info or feedback from others who have been down this road of cam upgrade/swap on the 07-14 6.2L’s. I’ll have long tube headers installed at same time I believe. I’ll need to replenish my play money account before the supercharger which should come around end of 2021 at latest.

Goal for my Denali is to be a fun around town driver capable of longer trips occasionally (traveling to car audio shows mainly but around town driver for most part. Wanting to giddy up when needed and have a fast 6k pound hog of a suv to race around a lil on Streets but mainly have fun driving and toying with others

I’m the original owner and do have another primary vehicle. (I still end up in my Denali most days because I like it more than other vehicles I have- cray huh?)

I’m for sure using Texas Speed and Performance I think and going with one of their cam packages. My signature should have vehicle mods so far if needed.

The plan is to do TSP Cam Package and Long tube headers then supercharger towards end of year

below is what TSP recommended I do based on them reviewing my rpo codes and what I’m wanting:


Ok the l94 6.2 has both vvt and afm/dod. I would recommend removing both for the best performance and tuning.

Our stg1 l92 cam is the best option there.

Cam kit
Add 216/228 cam in drop down
Leave rest as is
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-249-t...-for-rectangular-port-heads-ls3l92lsal76.aspx

Dod delete
Add 0046 head gaskets
Add 6504 lifters
Add l92 valley
Add head bolts
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-7379-...ce-dod-afm-delete-kit-for-536062-engines.aspx

Vvt Delete
Leave as is
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-724-vvt-delete-kit.aspx

You got the right guy on your side in the post above.

 

[Geotrash]

You got the right guy on your side in the post above.

Thank you, Bill. Very kind of you to say that.

 

[Denaliz]

Very much appreciate the detailed info and suggestions. I’ll admit this is out of my wheelhouse of knowledge so I’m trying to gain insight from guys like you. I agree with doing it right front the start.

everyone likes to save money, including myself but It’s more important to me that I’m happy with the final results vs saving a few bucks here and there to just get by.

I’ll take some time and go thru your build. I’m sure I’ll have a few questions and will reach out if that’s cool when I do.

That looks like a great setup. I especially like the integrated seals/seats that are designed for dual valve springs. Hassle saver right there. Looks like they’re recommending the Morel 6504 lifters, which I also agree with. I have them in mine and they’re terrific.

I cam swapped my 6.2 in December/January. Lots of lessons learned, and all chronicled here in this thread if you’re interested:

2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=17772&share_tid=121671&url=https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/index.php?threads/2012-Yukon-XL-Denali-6.2L-Cam-Swap-Thread.121671/&share_type=t&link_source=app

I’ll be following your progress and happy to answer any questions I can along the way. I ended up with a Brian Tooley Racing stage 2 truck cam and I’m very happy with it. Hopefully @ls1frc will chime in, too.

Edit: a couple of other things come to mind based on the links you sent. I didn't like any of the "kits" from any of the vendors because I preferred to have the very best of each component, and all of the kits made compromises. For example, I chose ARP head bolts, timing sprocket bolts, and harmonic balancer bolt because they're all reusable and made of top quality engineered alloys, and can be torqued readily without the clumsy 'torque-to-yield' process that others require. In my build thread I have the links to all of the parts I used toward the end of the thread.

You might also consider dropping the pan and replacing the oil pump. I used a Melling high volume pump and am really glad I did. As it turns out, the original with 115K on it wouldn't maintain the pressure I needed with the new setup. I never determined conclusively whether it was the o-ring or something else that kept the original pump from working as well as it should have, but I have great pressure now with the new pump. Also, "while you're in there", you might as well plug the port for the pressure relief valve in the oil pan. Without AFM or VVT, it serves no purpose and is a pressure leak waiting to happen.

Finally, you might as well buy a new water pump and also replace the oil pressure sensor and delete the screen beneath it. It's also a great time to do the plugs and wires.

 

[Denaliz]

I just recently replaced my oil sending unit (2nd time in last 5 years- f you GM on the placement of that unit)

plugs and wires I knocked out a couple of months ago when I was refreshing suspension and upgrading to Eibach sway bars. You thinking something besides oem/ platinum ac delco wires and 41-114 plugs?

Very much appreciate the detailed info and suggestions. I’ll admit this is out of my wheelhouse of knowledge so I’m trying to gain insight from guys like you. I agree with doing it right front the start.

everyone likes to save money, including myself but It’s more important to me that I’m happy with the final results vs saving a few bucks here and there to just get by.

I’ll take some time and go thru your build. I’m sure I’ll have a few questions and will reach out if that’s cool when I do.

 

[mattbta]

Howdy from Frisco - Legacy & Lebanon.

Subscribed.

 

[Geotrash]

I just recently replaced my oil sending unit (2nd time in last 5 years- f you GM on the placement of that unit)

plugs and wires I knocked out a couple of months ago when I was refreshing suspension and upgrading to Eibach sway bars. You thinking something besides oem/ platinum ac delco wires and 41-114 plugs?

No, OEM plugs and wires are the best for these engines, in my opinion.

Also, I managed to find a link to the post that has the final parts list and tips/lessons learned in the process:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...l-cam-swap-thread.121671/page-24#post-1537278

Also note that Morel has replaced the 6504 for drop-in LS lifter applications with the 7717.

 

[Foggy]

So just my opinion.. thru my research and experience
I "think" that cam would work fine with a good tune.. but you said you'll be
adding a supercharger down the road so make sure you get a LSA - lobe seperation angle of at least 114, 116 would be better.
That cam has a lot of lift.. which you won't need with a supercharger. I would go one step smaller on the cam.
IF you really want to get rid of the VVT, that's fine, but it does have its advantages.
I think doing these upgrades as a SEPARATE operation wastes a lot of time and money
With the cam job, you'll already be 80% of the supercharger job - depending on which SC you choose too.

You will def want to pin the crank while you have the balancer removed - I'd replace it with a better unit
And do the oil pump, timing gears & chain, and chain tensioner too

The SC won't require a high lift cam, so you can save a lot of wear on the valvetrain with less lift, plus
tuning and manners will be better

I wish I had done all mine at the same time too.. I did the SC only... Lots of work and a work in progress still !!
But probably next year I'm going to just build a new LS3 with a non DOD cam, GM perf heads and possibly stroked.
The pistons are a weak point with forced induction on these.. but I'm not the original owner like you, so you know your
history etc which is Huge IMO

 

[ls1frc]

What are your goals in terms of drivability. Do you want lope or smooth idle.

If youre gonna do a blower a cam is probably not needed anyway.