I’m back with an Esky this time

[Sam Harris]

I just bought another one for the 18 Silverado couple weeks ago, I think this is about the best price around still. I just used the rubber hose and fitting that are included with the cooler and clamped over the factory lines. I used a bracket to move the ambient temp sensor over a few inches because it kept telling me it was 125 deg''s outside because it was sitting behind the cooler, when i mounted the cooler I used some 1" stand-off's I didn't want it flush up against the radiator support. I originally went with a flex-a-lite but it's didn't do shit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tru-Cool-Max-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-40-000-GVW-Low-Pressure-Drop-LPD47391/322225882661?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
View media item 27546View media item 27547View media item 27545View media item 27544

That’s a great price. I’ve got the one with the cold weather bypass on my list. It’s more $$ but figure I need that one here in Co.

 

[Snowbound]

That's a nice setup.

Figured you’d like my plate. [emoji23]


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[Tonyrodz]

Figured you’d like my plate. [emoji23]


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Clean install

 

[Doubeleive]

I can’t bring myself to use rubber hose on a barbed fitting with a hose clamp for a trans line. I seen a buddy do it on a brand new trans and hose popped off and puked all the ATF out and smoked the new trans. They rebuilt it again because he said it just stopped working but I made him use hard lines and fittings. Shamed him into it really. I couldn’t imagine having my family loaded up heading up north and the line blow off. I’ve just seen too many things that can go wrong, go wrong.

But I like that pan. I may have to order one. Thanks for the links. I’m gonna see if I can find factory fittings to fit that cooler.


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the fittings are barbed so I didn't think it would be a issue, I saw in your earlier post about the trans line pressure being up to 300psi? where did you get that info? I was under the impression the trans lines ran maybe 25-30 psi

 

[Snowbound]

the fittings are barbed so I didn't think it would be a issue, I saw in your earlier post about the trans line pressure being up to 300psi? where did you get that info? I was under the impression the trans lines ran maybe 25-30 psi

I was originally gonna say 250PSI but didn’t want to spread bad info. So I looked it up on trucktransdiag.com.

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[Snowbound]

the fittings are barbed so I didn't think it would be a issue, I saw in your earlier post about the trans line pressure being up to 300psi? where did you get that info? I was under the impression the trans lines ran maybe 25-30 psi

To ease your mind from thinking rubber lines will blow off the fittings, when that happened to my buddy, he took the lines out of his radiator and slipped a hose over the line. Figured it had a flare on the end and it would hold with a hose clamp. It didn’t. And he had to pull trans again. So that’s a little different than hose on a barbed fitting. Barbs do hold better. That was a 4L60e, it’s pressure are:

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[Sam Harris]

To ease your mind from thinking rubber lines will blow off the fittings, when that happened to my buddy, he took the lines out of his radiator and slipped a hose over the line. Figured it had a flare on the end and it would hold with a hose clamp. It didn’t. And he had to pull trans again. So that’s a little different than hose on a barbed fitting. Barbs do hold better. That was a 4L60e, it’s pressure are:

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Holy shit. I had no idea they went up that high!! [emoji15][emoji15]

 

[Doubeleive]

I was originally gonna say 250PSI but didn’t want to spread bad info. So I looked it up on trucktransdiag.com.

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I'm pretty sure those are internal pressure ratings, the flow through to the cooler is not anywhere close to that high, I was wondering because I had looked into it before.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1792025

 

[Sam Harris]

I'm pretty sure those are internal pressure ratings, the flow through to the cooler is not anywhere close to that high, I was wondering because I had looked into it before.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1792025

Interesting

 

[Doubeleive]

To ease your mind from thinking rubber lines will blow off the fittings, when that happened to my buddy, he took the lines out of his radiator and slipped a hose over the line. Figured it had a flare on the end and it would hold with a hose clamp. It didn’t. And he had to pull trans again. So that’s a little different than hose on a barbed fitting. Barbs do hold better. That was a 4L60e, it’s pressure are:

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they must be testing on a high pressure port for internal pressure

 

[Snowbound]

I’m sure they are internal pressures. Thinking more about it, although I’ll be the first to admit I’m no trans guy by any means, it’s just a flow thru cooler. I don’t think you could ever see pressures over 50psi on a loop that is dumping back to pan. It would need some sort of restriction to yield any kind of higher pressure. I haven’t looked to see if I can find cooler line pressure specs, but I thought maybe you won’t because how can you measure pressure when the fluid is just dumping back. Pressure is a measurement of restriction after all.


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[Snowbound]

Trans is in and bolted up.

Transfer case going in now.

I’m so pissed I didn’t get crossmember cleaned up and painted but I’m stressed for time so I’m just gonna have to deal with losing sleep over it.

Trans cooler will be out before I call it a day. I’m right there so shouldn’t take but 5 more minutes to remove.

Have to buzz in the torque converter bolts and stab the starter up but I’m starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. My luck it’s a train coming at me.

I still need to do the broken exhaust bolts too. Trans cooler will be here Saturday so I’m doing ok for time. I’m hoping Sunday I’ll be doing reflash to the TCM and doing a little tuning. Fingers crossed.


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[Snowbound]

I lied. Only took 2 minutes.

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[Doubeleive]

I lied. Only took 2 minutes.

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see that thing is tiny, I think the tru cool is about 4x that size or at least 3x

 

[Snowbound]

T-case is in. Took a little longer because I forgot I had to scrape the old gasket off.

Also got the cover changed out where the oil cooler lines hook up. I think this cover has been leaking for some time. I keep getting 1 or 2 tiny drops on my garage floor and it looks like this side is the culprit.

I’m hoping this is my leak and it’s not the oil pan gasket. The front seal and cover is dry but it like like it’s down the pan rail too. I’m gonna put the truck on my buddy’s lift and pressure wash it real good when this thing is finally done. I have to, I mean I have to or it’ll eat me up, wash this crossmember, bottom of the body and inner frame rails and get some paint on it. It’s killing me knowing I had this apart and didn’t have time to do everything I wanted. I started tearing into this thing 12 days ago and I should of been done already. Trans job has never taken me this long! Not being able to get after it right when I got home from work is why but damn, I have a ton of other stuff to get done before I can hit the trails on my sled.




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[Snowbound]

see that thing is tiny, I think the tru cool is about 4x that size or at least 3x

Yeah, I know. But I can’t find the right fittings to attach to an aftermarket cooler. I’m gonna keep looking and when I find them, I will upgrade it. I do use this to pull my snowmobile trailer. And I hate how close the exhaust is to the cooler lines and the crossover right under pan. I might heat wrap the crossover while it’s out. I have some wrap.


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[kbuskill]

Yeah, I know. But I can’t find the right fittings to attach to an aftermarket cooler. I’m gonna keep looking and when I find them, I will upgrade it. I do use this to pull my snowmobile trailer. And I hate how close the exhaust is to the cooler lines and the crossover right under pan. I might heat wrap the crossover while it’s out. I have some wrap.


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I was thinking something like this might work...

With some luck, maybe they would screw directly into an aftermarket cooler without any other adapters being required.

 

[Snowbound]

I was thinking something like this might work...
View attachment 236830

With some luck, maybe they would screw directly into an aftermarket cooler without any other adapters being required.

I seen that but the problem is, it’s a boss o-ring fitting like the ones in the radiator for trans cooler. I can’t find what the thread pitch is on them. I suppose I could order them and try to adapt to an aftermarket trans. I just didn’t want to be held up by the cooler. I’m gonna do something like that.

Thanks for the part number. I couldn’t find one that said it was for the Cadillac. Gonna give it a try.


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[Snowbound]

Quick update: first of all, I hope everyone had a great Xmas and got to spend some time with family and friends. If I don’t get back on here, I hope everyone has a safe and happy New Years too. Don’t drink and drive, not worth it. Call an Uber.
Back to my never ending trans change. I dropped the transfercase oil and put some new Amsoil ATF in. Did the rear and front differentials too. Then I changed the engine oil and filter. Spent more time flushing the trans lines and cooler in radiator. I wasn’t gonna call that done until it was clear and clean. The pump flush I had used didn’t have enough pressure. I ended up filling my ac line flush gun with ATF and using 100psi and started getting more debris. Then used brake cleaner followed by a blow gun. After 4 times, 2 each way, I’m not getting anything out the lines anymore. I’m confident enough to hook up the trans lines to trans and install cooler.
Not sure if I posted or not, but I removed drives side exhaust manifold.

This side had a broken bolt on the front.

I was able to grab it with vise grips so I heated the head with propane torch and backed the broken bolt out.

Then I cleaned the head and chased the bolt holes. Blew out the threaded holes and sandblasted the manifold. Then I heated the manifold and removed then replaced the studs for mid pipe. After that I slapped on some POR15 high heat paint.

Then the passenger side came off. It was a little harder to get at and also I had to heat the manifold around the bolts a lot more than the drivers side to get the bolts out. This side the rear most bolt was the one that broke. I didn’t have as much as the drivers side to grab with vise grips so I decided it was in my best interest to weld a nut to the protruding stud which heated the stud and also gave me a way to extract it. Sorry no pics, it was hard enough getting in there and took longer than I wanted so I was rushing.
Then I sandblasted manifold and heated up the first stud for mid pipe and snapped it off below flush. SOAB!! Spent the next 2 hrs burning drill bits and trying to extract the stud. After not being able to pull the stud, I ended up drilling it all the way out and when I was about to get into the threads, I was able to remove.

I said screw it and ran my die over the remaining 2 studs. I’m not spending that kinda time removing broken studs, besides, this side I was able to get the nuts off without having to cut studs.
So I cleaned manifold with brake cleaner and slapped on the paint.

While manifold was curing, I wanted to get drive shafts back together. I did the front shaft first. Popped the u-joints in and it’s ready to go.

Did the rear shaft next. Front joint went in and got the yoke attached. Put the rear in and when I was setting the cap to put the clip in, the opposite cap busted. Wth? It was in and I wasn’t hitting that side. Had to remove the joint and now I need to get another one.

I’ve never had that happen before while installing new one. Had it happen removing old ones. Before I can put front shaft in, I need to get drivers side manifold on. I wanna first say, these are the only manifold gaskets IMO. I’d never use anything but these.

That being said, manifold is on.

Today the passenger side is going on and hopefully the mid pipe will be on and truck back on the ground. Fingers crossed.


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[Sam Harris]

Quick update: first of all, I hope everyone had a great Xmas and got to spend some time with family and friends. If I don’t get back on here, I hope everyone has a safe and happy New Years too. Don’t drink and drive, not worth it. Call an Uber.
Back to my never ending trans change. I dropped the transfercase oil and put some new Amsoil ATF in. Did the rear and front differentials too. Then I changed the engine oil and filter. Spent more time flushing the trans lines and cooler in radiator. I wasn’t gonna call that done until it was clear and clean. The pump flush I had used didn’t have enough pressure. I ended up filling my ac line flush gun with ATF and using 100psi and started getting more debris. Then used brake cleaner followed by a blow gun. After 4 times, 2 each way, I’m not getting anything out the lines anymore. I’m confident enough to hook up the trans lines to trans and install cooler.
Not sure if I posted or not, but I removed drives side exhaust manifold.

This side had a broken bolt on the front.

I was able to grab it with vise grips so I heated the head with propane torch and backed the broken bolt out.

Then I cleaned the head and chased the bolt holes. Blew out the threaded holes and sandblasted the manifold. Then I heated the manifold and removed then replaced the studs for mid pipe. After that I slapped on some POR15 high heat paint.

Then the passenger side came off. It was a little harder to get at and also I had to heat the manifold around the bolts a lot more than the drivers side to get the bolts out. This side the rear most bolt was the one that broke. I didn’t have as much as the drivers side to grab with vise grips so I decided it was in my best interest to weld a nut to the protruding stud which heated the stud and also gave me a way to extract it. Sorry no pics, it was hard enough getting in there and took longer than I wanted so I was rushing.
Then I sandblasted manifold and heated up the first stud for mid pipe and snapped it off below flush. SOAB!! Spent the next 2 hrs burning drill bits and trying to extract the stud. After not being able to pull the stud, I ended up drilling it all the way out and when I was about to get into the threads, I was able to remove.

I said screw it and ran my die over the remaining 2 studs. I’m not spending that kinda time removing broken studs, besides, this side I was able to get the nuts off without having to cut studs.
So I cleaned manifold with brake cleaner and slapped on the paint.

While manifold was curing, I wanted to get drive shafts back together. I did the front shaft first. Popped the u-joints in and it’s ready to go.

Did the rear shaft next. Front joint went in and got the yoke attached. Put the rear in and when I was setting the cap to put the clip in, the opposite cap busted. Wth? It was in and I wasn’t hitting that side. Had to remove the joint and now I need to get another one.

I’ve never had that happen before while installing new one. Had it happen removing old ones. Before I can put front shaft in, I need to get drivers side manifold on. I wanna first say, these are the only manifold gaskets IMO. I’d never use anything but these.

That being said, manifold is on.

Today the passenger side is going on and hopefully the mid pipe will be on and truck back on the ground. Fingers crossed.


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Merry Christmas! And Happy New Year to you! As usual, you have a giant PITA to deal with. Sheesh! Good work though as usual sir! God bless you and yours.