How would you test drive a 2015 Yukon with 102k?

[PitchBlease]

Hi all, 20+ year Ford owner here, hopefully making the switch to GM tomorrow.

I'm test driving a 2015 Yukon SLE with the 6 speed transmission and 5.3 engine.

After looking around the forums, I'll be checking the 4WD selector first, to make sure it's on 2wd and not on A4D.

I plan on replacing all fluids and filters, tuning it up, etc. to make sure it's safe for towing our 3000lb camper.

I'm a single dad that hasn't had a car loan since 1998 and have gotten 4 vehicles to over 250k miles. I mention this because I'm willing to spend money and garage time to keep my vehicles running right, and am proficient enough for most repairs.

If you were test driving this Yukon, what would you check for? Any driving maneuvers or undercarriage spots you would check?

 

[STORMIN08]

as always...drive it like you stole it.

common items again...ball joints, control arm sqeaks...ect, all easy fixes and relatively cheap.

i just did rear control arms and track bar for a few hundred bucks...all dealer bought parts also.

 

[CMoore711]

I'm a single dad that hasn't had a car loan since 1998 and have gotten 4 vehicles to over 250k miles. I mention this because I'm willing to spend money and garage time to keep my vehicles running right, and am proficient enough for most repairs.

If you were test driving this Yukon, what would you check for? Any driving maneuvers or undercarriage spots you would check?

Good for you man! I got 197K out of my last GM SUV (Trailblazer SS). At 120K on my ‘15 Denali XL and like you perfectly fine with maintaining up to 250K+.

How many miles are on the truck you’re looking at?

 

[LT1ZOB]

You’re getting awfully close to needing a torque converter in that A6, usually at about 125k miles. I don’t keep mine that long, but 3 friends (1 Suburban, 2 Silverados) started experiencing slipping issues between 110 and 135k miles. Just something to keep in mind. No guarantee of course it will happen to you.

 

[Tahoe14]

CMoore, In the heading for the post it indicated 102 thousand.

 

[Doubeleive]

Although the torque converter is a known weak point it can also depend on how much you abuse it, it is a not a defacto "going to fail" thing it just happens often enough to be a point of interest, take a flashlight look under the truck for leaks or worn stuff, it's also pretty typical to have to replace shocks around this point also especially if it has air ride.
take some speed bumps and see how it reacts, listen for noises, pop the hood listen to the engine, check all the doors, windows, locks, all the little buttons and gizmo's if it has rear entertainment check all that suff, seat heaters/coolers, turn the heater and ac on up down left/right etc, etc typical stuff. if you find any issue have it addressed BEFORE you sign anything, after you sign they are off the hook.
review the carfax and see where it came from and how much was done or not done to it, more maintenance performed just means less work for you down the road imo.
good luck.

 

[PitchBlease]

Good for you man! I got 197K out of my last GM SUV (Trailblazer SS). At 120K on my ‘15 Denali XL and like you perfectly fine with maintaining up to 250K+.

How many miles are on the truck you’re looking at?

102,000 miles

 

[PitchBlease]

Although the torque converter is a known weak point it can also depend on how much you abuse it, it is a not a defacto "going to fail" thing it just happens often enough to be a point of interest, take a flashlight look under the truck for leaks or worn stuff, it's also pretty typical to have to replace shocks around this point also especially if it has air ride.
take some speed bumps and see how it reacts, listen for noises, pop the hood listen to the engine, check all the doors, windows, locks, all the little buttons and gizmo's if it has rear entertainment check all that suff, seat heaters/coolers, turn the heater and ac on up down left/right etc, etc typical stuff. if you find any issue have it addressed BEFORE you sign anything, after you sign they are off the hook.
review the carfax and see where it came from and how much was done or not done to it, more maintenance performed just means less work for you down the road imo.
good luck.

No AutoRide or Magna Ride, just standard shocks with a solid rear axle

 

[Doubeleive]

No AutoRide or Magna Ride, just standard shocks with a solid rear axle

I just noted that because on the previous gen nnbs shocks start wearing out around 85k+
on these k2xx they have been getting reported earlier as low as 45k+ if they are questionable at all I would just replace them with bilstein 5100's or 4600's and probably never have to worry about them again.

 

[trailblazer]

I'm not trying to hijack this thread; I'm also very close to purchasing a very clean '15 Yukon XL SLE (with HD tow) that has 93k miles for $29k. I currently drive a '09 Tahoe LT2 that I also bought with 93k and it now has 166k. It has served me well but with three kids and long road trips between Utah and N. Michigan, I'm getting apprehensive. I have read some comments in other threads about the K2's transmission going to hell at 100k miles and the engine time-bombing at 150k miles. What exactly changed with the torque converters for the 15+ versus the 6L-80E in my NNBS Tahoe? Is the AFM in the 15+ just as dangerous as in the NNBS'? I know GM made some changes through the years (valve cover internal PCV deflector, etc). I actually used HPTuners to disable AFM in my Tahoe the week I acquired it and installed an oil separator kit.

 

[swathdiver]

Hi all, 20+ year Ford owner here, hopefully making the switch to GM tomorrow.

I'm test driving a 2015 Yukon SLE with the 6 speed transmission and 5.3 engine.

After looking around the forums, I'll be checking the 4WD selector first, to make sure it's on 2wd and not on A4D.

I plan on replacing all fluids and filters, tuning it up, etc. to make sure it's safe for towing our 3000lb camper.

I'm a single dad that hasn't had a car loan since 1998 and have gotten 4 vehicles to over 250k miles. I mention this because I'm willing to spend money and garage time to keep my vehicles running right, and am proficient enough for most repairs.

If you were test driving this Yukon, what would you check for? Any driving maneuvers or undercarriage spots you would check?

Those early years had trouble with buffeting at speed, there was not enough glue in the roof bows. Should be fixed by now if it was an issue with yours. You FORD guys are always mechanically inclined, have to be! LOL Just funnin' ya! I miss my '96 F-150 sometimes!

What exactly changed with the torque converters for the 15+ versus the 6L-80E in my NNBS Tahoe? Is the AFM in the 15+ just as dangerous as in the NNBS'? I know GM made some changes through the years (valve cover internal PCV deflector, etc). I actually used HPTuners to disable AFM in my Tahoe the week I acquired it and installed an oil separator kit.

The back plate of the torque converter flexes which breaks away the clutch material and sends it through the transmission. This is usually from overheating and then hot ******* and or heavy towing. The K2s also have a transmission thermostat. This makes them run at engine temperature and more than the converter is their #1 killer. Either "Flip the Pill" or install the new lower temperature unit. Easy peasy.

Blackstone Labs also analyzes transmission fluids. I did mine a couple of years ago and they said it was great. The OE fluid should not go past 45-50K miles no matter how you drive it.

Uhh, apparently R-O-D-D-I-N-G is another banned word. So glad I have no idea in what context perverts might talk that way! LOL

 

[LT1ZOB]

Those early years had trouble with buffeting at speed, there was not enough glue in the roof bows. Should be fixed by now if it was an issue with yours. You FORD guys are always mechanically inclined, have to be! LOL Just funnin' ya! I miss my '96 F-150 sometimes!



The back plate of the torque converter flexes which breaks away the clutch material and sends it through the transmission. This is usually from overheating and then hot ******* and or heavy towing. The K2s also have a transmission thermostat. This makes them run at engine temperature and more than the converter is their #1 killer. Either "Flip the Pill" or install the new lower temperature unit. Easy peasy.

Blackstone Labs also analyzes transmission fluids. I did mine a couple of years ago and they said it was great. The OE fluid should not go past 45-50K miles no matter how you drive it.

Uhh, apparently R-O-D-D-I-N-G is another banned word. So glad I have no idea in what context perverts might talk that way! LOL

Your last comment is hilarious. Thanks, needed a laugh. Anyway, I’ve done the Shift unit (literally a 10 minute job on my buddy’s lift) and I use a Range device to stay in V8 at all times. I bought my truck with 17k miles, have 25k miles now. If I keep it long enough, I’ll report back on whether these devices helped. I will say my trans temp has dropped tremendously since the swap. I see 0 downside to that particular $40 investment.

 

[trailblazer]

Your last comment is hilarious. Thanks, needed a laugh. Anyway, I’ve done the Shift unit (literally a 10 minute job on my buddy’s lift) and I use a Range device to stay in V8 at all times. I bought my truck with 17k miles, have 25k miles now. If I keep it long enough, I’ll report back on whether these devices helped. I will say my trans temp has dropped tremendously since the swap. I see 0 downside to that particular $40 investment.

I installed a Tru-Cool trans cooler in my ‘09 Tahoe that includes a cold weather bypass valve. I’m curious if removing the K2’s thermostatic valve will cause the trans to run TOO cool for those in the North. For the trans to run efficiently it needs to be 170+ degrees F?

Is the shift kit worth it for a 100k mile K2?

 

[LT1ZOB]

I installed a Tru-Cool trans cooler in my ‘09 Tahoe that includes a cold weather bypass valve. I’m curious if removing the K2’s thermostatic valve will cause the trans to run TOO cool for those in the North. For the trans to run efficiently it needs to be 170+ degrees F?

Is the shift kit worth it for a 100k mile K2?

My buddy did the Shift on his Silverado about 6 months ago, then replaced the TC at 122k miles. Not sure, but I think the damage was already done. I too worry about the cold weather. I run the truck 15 minutes in morning before I drive, but it was -9 last night. I no longer get into the 170s unless I’m idling a while in traffic. 130-140 is the norm after I installed the kit

 

[trailblazer]

I think the new replacement OE valve part number is 86774933. Has a full-open temperature of 158F versus 194F.

 

[nick14226]

You may have already made your decision, but if still looking at a 15-17 I’d check to see if this was done. If not try to work it into the deal preemptively.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10145171-9999.pdf

 

[trailblazer]

Picked mine up yesterday for $29k (92.5k miles). Thankfully the selling dealer (Jeep/Dodge) also owns a Chevrolet dealership. I asked them to give me a full service history for any dealer work and they emailed me a .pdf of all work performed at any GM dealer. It also included a list of any warranties still in effect. Looks like I'm good until 2025 and 150k miles for the "Special Coverage N182202780" brake booster issue. I'm blown away how fast they had to replace a headlight and taillight unit at 1,257 miles when this thing was still warm off the Arlington assembly line! But its had both taillights replaced, the leaking antenna replaced, and the condenser replaced. Hopefully the 3.5 year old condenser was of a better design...

 

[davidbeaver1]

Very nice! Like some else posted, I'm always concerned with where the truck comes from. Get a carfax and see how many owners, where it started its life and if it had any accidents. I never buy vehicles if they come from big cities or salty road areas. The dealers will run a carfax for free for you.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

I guess the funny thing when I look at all the comments. Anything mechanical is a gamble, some are great, some suck. I think if you can find a vehicle that fits your budget, have a mechanic look it over with you, check the carfax, do as much due diligence as possible, you minimize your risks for sure.

I think how its taken care of is everything on if it will last a load longer than one that was neglected and city driven.

 

[BeenChevy]

Just had my 15 yukon in the shop for transmission service yesterday and everything still looks perfect even at 130k. Biggest issue with the 6l80 in these trucks is the programming that causes valve restriction. These trucks roll of the line setup more for the track than the a daily driver. Either buy a tuner or bring it in for tranny service at your local shop every ~45k for a fluid/filter flush. Have them set the release lower than the apply on gears 1-4 and give a little more torque pressure in between shifts. There are un-named kits that will help longevity as well but even stock is okay if maintained and programmed correctly. The stock programming will eventually cause pre-mature feeder valve to stick and cause the clutches to slip taking out your entire tranny. Doesn't matter a whole lot which torque converter you use so long as it's programmed properly.