Just get a neighbor to push on the pedal for you. Less expensive. Some sections of the abs will be bled but not the areas normally cut off from the mine piping when brakes are locking up. You can induce lock-up to sorta mimic what the abs does when reacting to it but you will probably never new if you locked up both fronts and the rear. On top of that not only does it need to dump pressure the pump must also run to apply braking on its own and push the air into the distribution passages to push out air as well. There are six separate valves in the abs. If you did not get air in the abs while in active mode I would not worry about it so much unless braking force is uneven or you can have someone run the functional test on it.
Whether at some past point in time, I allowed air into the system by doing some unorthodox method of work, or bleeding, that's a possibility?
When I installed the two Stillen 3/4 Ton Calipers, Pads, Slotted Rotors, and the three Stainless Braided Hoses to the Tahoe, I first drained the MC Resovoir of old fluid. (simply with a Turkey Baster)
The mechanical Aspects of installation all appeared to go just fine. Everything buttoned up properly, and the only mechanical issue I had to rectify was the flexibility of the two front Braided Brake Hoses, that would've been rubbing the insides of the front tires, so I simply used two ultra heavy duty Tie Wraps to hold-tether the Hoses away from the Tires a bit.
After installation, and bleeding by myself with a Vacuum Type Bleeder, with Cup, then was the big moment, the test drive.
The brakes at first were pretty horrid, I had quite a bit reduced braking efficiency on the truck, and of course was shaking my head "oh boy, now what?"
Taking the truck on a deserted unused street in the area, I took the Tahoe up to about 40-45 mph, and pushed the pedal as hard as I could. I almost went through the windshield. The ABS activated, and the truck hauled down from speed very quickly.
Thinking back, I thought I might've drained the Resovoir a bit too much, virtually totally emptying it before I refilled with fresh?
The other, was that the Pistons within the Caliper Bores were slightly seized, or I didn't get a full bleed though all the lines?
Anyway, after that, the brakes did appear to work quite well. It seemed that the Slotted Rotors, and better composition of the Pads enabled the truck to stop much better than stock, especially after the Pads were warmed up a bit. Pedal feel was good, seemed firmer than before.
The truck with the new brake components worked flawlessly for quite many 1000's of miles across country towing a Cargo Trailer.
Until recently, currently, my brakes are working quite poorly.
I like doing work myself, and sadly have little in the way of help here in NM.
I just earlier ordered a Power Motive Power Bleeder Kit, with Tank, and Alu Square Plate Adapter. I'll again buy a qt or two of good fluid, and try again with a full system bleed, and go from there.
I see no leakage anywhere on the vehicle, and will do an update when I can.
At this point, I will of course hold every component on the system as suspect, the MC, Booster, and all brake parts at the wheels as possibly faulty. The ABS still appears to work correctly, no premature locking up, no brake lights, etc.
Mark
