Horrible alignment problems continued

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Colby_e32

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I’ve posted many times before about my 2001 tahoe.

I assume I am a very picky person at this point, but it doesn’t seem unrealistic to want a perfect alignment on a what I consider slightly lowered truck.

Current setup is Belltech drop spindles, Belltech drop keys, Belltech front jounce stops, Belltech street performance shocks. 31.5” ground to fender on a 285/50/20.

I have the Belltech alignment cams, and offset bushings. I reamed out the frame holes for the aftermarket alignment cams and still have 2 degrees of camber, and caster is out of spec as well. Causing a terrible tire wear pattern and jerky/unsteady feeling steering.

Truck has a new GM pitman arm, GM idler arm, moog lower balljoints, moog upper control arms with offset bushings, flipped upper control arms per Belltech spindle instructions (didn’t help a damn thing other than balljoint angle )

what front setup can be used to correct this camber?

The truck seemed to have less camber with stock decranked keys, but the ride quality was worse, at the same ride height.

7D2EDDD0-54F6-4053-8B8B-0FC156B9AB1A.jpeg 2E3B643E-4818-430E-8D95-0AD04E280AA0.jpeg 851E8693-B02C-4B4F-AF1A-B2AD0CA0E5F0.jpeg
 
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Colby_e32

Colby_e32

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Also installed a KYB steering stabilizer which didn’t help the alignment issues but sure helped the quality of the steering feel overall.

5DCDB649-AB8A-4DAC-B759-687E5A39EC91.jpeg
 

tc8510

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Also installed a KYB steering stabilizer which didn’t help the alignment issues but sure helped the quality of the steering feel overall.

View attachment 264412

Is that something you added or is standard? I have an 04 Yukon didn't know that was a thing. I hate the steering on these trucks. I tightened the steering box bolt with a little bit of improvement.
 

iamdub

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I’ve posted many times before about my 2001 tahoe.

I assume I am a very picky person at this point, but it doesn’t seem unrealistic to want a perfect alignment on a what I consider slightly lowered truck.

Current setup is Belltech drop spindles, Belltech drop keys, Belltech front jounce stops, Belltech street performance shocks. 31.5” ground to fender on a 285/50/20.

I have the Belltech alignment cams, and offset bushings. I reamed out the frame holes for the aftermarket alignment cams and still have 2 degrees of camber, and caster is out of spec as well. Causing a terrible tire wear pattern and jerky/unsteady feeling steering.

Truck has a new GM pitman arm, GM idler arm, moog lower balljoints, moog upper control arms with offset bushings, flipped upper control arms per Belltech spindle instructions (didn’t help a damn thing other than balljoint angle )

what front setup can be used to correct this camber?

The truck seemed to have less camber with stock decranked keys, but the ride quality was worse, at the same ride height.

View attachment 264387 View attachment 264393 View attachment 264394


Who is doing your alignment, you or a shop with equipment?

If the steering is twitchy/sensitive, then you likely have zero or negative caster. Adjusting the front mount of the upper control arm outward would add positive camber as well as move the caster towards positive. Toe may be incorrect but will have to be readjusted anyway if the caster and/or camber is changed.

In your pics (great pics, BTW- especially the before and after of the control arm flip), the BT alignment cams are maxed out with no control arm installed. With the arms installed and how it sits now are they maxed out? The instructions for the alignment cams say to grind those nubs down flush with the thickness of the cams. This is so they don't interfere with the bolt turning. I'm wondering, if a shop did your alignment, those nubs interfered so they couldn't/didn't adjust the arms out as far as they could/needed to because the bolt head was hitting. Just a flying leap of a guess.
 
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Colby_e32

Colby_e32

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Who is doing your alignment, you or a shop with equipment?

If the steering is twitchy/sensitive, then you likely have zero or negative caster. Adjusting the front mount of the upper control arm outward would add positive camber as well as move the caster towards positive. Toe may be incorrect but will have to be readjusted anyway if the caster and/or camber is changed.

In your pics (great pics, BTW- especially the before and after of the control arm flip), the BT alignment cams are maxed out with no control arm installed. With the arms installed and how it sits now are they maxed out? The instructions for the alignment cams say to grind those nubs down flush with the thickness of the cams. This is so they don't interfere with the bolt turning. I'm wondering, if a shop did your alignment, those nubs interfered so they couldn't/didn't adjust the arms out as far as they could/needed to because the bolt head was hitting. Just a flying leap of a guess.

A shop is doing the alignment. The Nubs were grinded flush with the cams to allow full movement, the bolt head does not hit at all.

The caster is positive, and the camber is negative, neither of which are in spec, and will not get into spec. Weird thing is the truck isnt that low. I dont understand it at all.

I will grab some pictures of the control arms now that they are installed, still not enough camber there to correct the negative.

The steering is very twitchy/jerky at times, especially over bumps/hills inclines that have slight curves, I know some of this is bumpsteer, and cannot be corrected due to the angle of the tie rods.

The shop is baffled by it, they suggested running drop spindles, which i already have... Then he said switch back to stock spindles and lift the truck back up 2" which im not going to do.
 
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Colby_e32

Colby_e32

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Your choice of jack scares me lol


That was only because my fat ass couldn’t slide under the truck far enough to install the steering stabilizer at ride height. The wheels were still on the ground.

And I was at my friends house with no tools LOL
 
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Colby_e32

Colby_e32

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Is that something you added or is standard? I have an 04 Yukon didn't know that was a thing. I hate the steering on these trucks. I tightened the steering box bolt with a little bit of improvement.

KYB - SS15326 is a direct bolt on for 99-06 tahoe 2wd or 4x4
 

Tonyv__

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That was only because my fat ass couldn’t slide under the truck far enough to install the steering stabilizer at ride height. The wheels were still on the ground.

And I was at my friends house with no tools LOL

gotta do what u gotta do. I still use my harbor freight stands despite the recalls lol
 
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Colby_e32

Colby_e32

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gotta do what u gotta do. I still use my harbor freight stands despite the recalls lol

we had a tractor fall to the ground at work due to those pos stands.


Well last week I ordered some Michigan metal works control arms that are “camber cure” they are longer than stock.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll go back 100% stock, and install some lift spindles and moog springs in the rear.

anybody know the largest tire you can run on a stock or lightly lifted tahoe? LOL
 

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