Help with making my own AUTORIDE LINKS, please!

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KMeloney

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Trying this in this section, too...

Hey all,

So the 2-1/2" links supplied with the Belltech rear lowering kit are too short (they'd be perfect if the front were lowered, too), and the factory ones are too long. I'd like to make my own links that split the difference between the two.

Am I just looking for some all-thread (rod) that is the same general diameter as the stock links? The Belltech links appear to be a smaller diameter, but threaded (the stock links are splined, not threaded). Do I need to find all-thread that has the same thread spacing as the Belltech ones, or will the sensor caps self-thread to any size thread?

Need some help here, folks. Thanks!

/< / /2 /<
 

GTXgp

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I just went to Home Depot and found threaded rod that was the same diameter as the stock links and cut them the length. The stock caps just threaded on. If you want some extra piece of mind you could put some glue in the caps before threading them but I didn't need it.

I also painted the rod black after I was done just to help it blend in more :)

Adam
 
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KMeloney

KMeloney

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Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking to know. I appreciate it.

Now, what's the best way to access these links to remove them and replace them? Jack the rear up? Remove the tires? Simply reach up between the tire and liner and pull the sensor caps away from the mounts? I need some specifics to see if this is something I can swap by myself (without screwing something up).

Thank you!!
 

NORCAL SS

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Did you put the rear spacers in the back of the truck?
 

GTXgp

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Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking to know. I appreciate it.

Now, what's the best way to access these links to remove them and replace them? Jack the rear up? Remove the tires? Simply reach up between the tire and liner and pull the sensor caps away from the mounts? I need some specifics to see if this is something I can swap by myself (without screwing something up).

Thank you!!

You could reach it without taking the tire off, but it is a tight squeeze. I would just remove the tire to get better access. Once there, you just pull the link straight off. Pliers may help, but may not be necessary.
 
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KMeloney

KMeloney

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Did you put the rear spacers in the back of the truck?

Yep, they're back in, Tony. With the Belltech links in the rear, the rear was dropping to as low as 35-1/2", which would end up being 3/4" lower than the front. No good. And I think that was pretty close to maxing out the adjustment of them. So, I'm going to make my own links that are 1/4" shorter than stock. Should be perfect, I'd think.

---------- Post added at 08:35 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 AM ----------

You could reach it without taking the tire off, but it is a tight squeeze. I would just remove the tire to get better access. Once there, you just pull the link straight off. Pliers may help, but may not be necessary.

Thanks again, Adam! Just to be sure, I'm pulling the caps straight out toward me (from the side of the truck), right?

Now, after doing this, and when going to put the new, shorter links on, will I have to jimmy anything to get the cap mounts to line up (since the link is now SHORTER than when it came off)?

I ask because I may not fully understand how the links actually work... Are the links just acting as a "spacer" between the two suspension parts, while the real sensor is in the disc-like piece ABOVE the link? Are there any electronics in the link caps themselves, or on the posts they mount to, or are the electronics in the disc, and the disc rotates according to the amount of space between the suspension pieces?

Can I destroy anything in the links' end caps, or are they just acting as spacer mounts?

Thanks again! (People have tried to help me understand this, but I think I just need it stated in a different way in order to fully understand it...)
 

GTXgp

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Thanks again, Adam! Just to be sure, I'm pulling the caps straight out toward me (from the side of the truck), right?

Exactly.

Now, after doing this, and when going to put the new, shorter links on, will I have to jimmy anything to get the cap mounts to line up (since the link is now SHORTER than when it came off)?

Possibly, but I would hardly call it Jimmy... the upper ball mount will move up and down easily by hand to allow your new link to line up since it may be a different length. Just move the ball mount until your link lines up and then press your link onto the ball... once again, a pair of pliers may help with this since it could be tight.

I ask because I may not fully understand how the links actually work... Are the links just acting as a "spacer" between the two suspension parts, while the real sensor is in the disc-like piece ABOVE the link? Are there any electronics in the link caps themselves, or on the posts they mount to, or are the electronics in the disc, and the disc rotates according to the amount of space between the suspension pieces?

I think you have it. The upper ball mount attaches to the round disc, which is a servo that reads the suspension height. There are no electronics in the ball, the link, or the lower ball.

Can I destroy anything in the links' end caps, or are they just acting as spacer mounts?
Theoretically, you could break the piece on the end cap that attaches to the ball, but I think you would have to be pretty wreckless to do so because they seem to be fairly solid plastic. I actually broke the stock rod, which is why I went threaded to begin with. The McG kit does not include rods and they want you to bend the stock rods to achieve the desired length. Well, when trying to bend the first one it snappd in half! LOL...I probably should have heated it first. But, I think the threaded rod looks better than a bent stock rod.

I used a flathead screwdriver wedged between the ball and link to pry the link off the ball mount. Then use two pliers to remove the end-pieces from the link. The end pieces will simply just screw back onto your threaded rod. Lastly, I used one pair of pliers to help press the link back onto the ball mount.

Thanks again! (People have tried to help me understand this, but I think I just need it stated in a different way in order to fully understand it...)

No problem, hope this helps. Make sure you post pics when you are done!

Adam

done1.jpg
 
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KMeloney

KMeloney

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Awesome, Adam. Really appreciate you spelling it all out for me (I can be thick sometimes).

I now feel like I can do this, myself, without the notion that I'm going to destroy something!

Thank you!
 

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