Heater Core Connector Tee, Which Size?

[Foggy]

All the mfrs show a 111mm and a 113mm .. So which is the correct one?
And how do I know without removing it first ??
2014 Yukon Denali XL 6.2 w rear air/heat

Thanks !!!

 

[OR VietVet]

I searched all channels that I know about. GM 15055343=111mm GM 15055342=113mm

RA offers both for these numbers 800413=111mm and 800414=113mm, both for $3.80 ea.
These appear to be made by Dorman.

I did find this though: "This is the WHITE connector (which is for the return line from the Suburban's 2 heater cores back to the engine) not the BLACK connector (which is the supply line).

The white connector appears to be 111mm and the black is 113mm.

 

[Foggy]

SO, I have BOTH ??? If that's the case, that's easy.. I'll order both !!
and change at the same time... I thought there was only 1. So I learn something new every day !!

 

[OR VietVet]

It took some digging but I found the quote in the reviews section of Amazon.

 

[kbuskill]

SO, I have BOTH ??? If that's the case, that's easy.. I'll order both !!
and change at the same time... I thought there was only 1. So I learn something new every day !!

Here is something else new for you to learn about today... lol

Billet GM Heater Core Coolant Tees - Gruven Parts
https://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/

Yes they are considerably more expensive than the cheap plastic ones BUT... you will never have to change them or worry about them breaking and leaving you stranded somewhere again... or worse yet overheating and blowing up your engine... cheap insurance in my opinion.

 

[Foggy]

I did some research with the other thread on the Gruven Htr Connections..I'm just not sure about them.. I read that they are hard to install and the barb length needs to be longer ..IDK..
I figured I'd just do the oem replacements on the cheap about every 5 years
or so...
Do the gruvens need to have 2 of these $79.00 Tees ??

 

[OR VietVet]

I would bet they do one size, either 111mm or 113mm, fits all because they are sliding a rubber hose on the end and using hose clamps. Could be wrong though.

 

[kbuskill]

I did some research with the other thread on the Gruven Htr Connections..I'm just not sure about them.. I read that they are hard to install and the barb length needs to be longer ..IDK..
I figured I'd just do the oem replacements on the cheap about every 5 years
or so...
Do the gruvens need to have 2 of these $79.00 Tees ??

Yes, you need two.

I'm not certain where you read the barb length needs to be longer. I am the guy who pitched the idea to Paul at Gruven to start making these. I sent him all the specs and parts to get all the dimensions from. I am still currently running the first edition of these without a barb on the side facing the engine and have had ZERO issues. He sent me the new version, with barbs on all 3 sides, after I recommended it to him just for added peace of mind.

The coolant system only runs about 15 psi so it probably wasn't necessary to add the other barb. I will eventually swap out for the revised set I have.

They can be a little tricky to install but nothing to extreme if you are decent with turning wrenches.

If you do end up with that supercharger you are talking about in your profile page you definitely will not want to be swapping those plastic connectors every few years.

Anyway... your choice... I just wanted to make sure you were aware of all the options.

 

[kbuskill]

I would bet they do one size, either 111mm or 113mm, fits all because they are sliding a rubber hose on the end and using hose clamps. Could be wrong though.

Correct.

The only real difference between the white and black connectors is there is a slight difference in the angle in which the rear heater lines come off the main line... and of course the 2mm difference in length. They can be used interchangeably though.

 

[Foggy]

So the Gruvin Tee online for $79 is for TWO Tees ???

 

[gooffeyguy]

So the Gruvin Tee online for $79 is for TWO Tees ???

Unfortunately no, only one

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[donjetman]

They were $141 for two Ts delivered to my door 9 of 19.

 

[Foggy]

They were $141 for two Ts delivered to my door 9 of 19.

Yikes !! I'll have to thing about this repair for sure. I usually go overboard and overdo things,,, But 141 Vs 10 is a huge difference

 

[wjburken]

Yikes !! I'll have to thing about this repair for sure. I usually go overboard and overdo things,,, But 141 Vs 10 is a huge difference

With these parts, it’s all about the risk you are willing to take. If the plastic ones fail, you risk being stranded or worse yet, an overheated engine. The ones from Gruven likely will never fail.

I for one, would probably go with the Dorman brand plastic as I feel the risk would be acceptable, but I have never had to replace one yet so haven’t had to make that call.

 

[kbuskill]

With these parts, it’s all about the risk you are willing to take. If the plastic ones fail, you risk being stranded or worse yet, an overheated engine. The ones from Gruven likely will never fail.

I for one, would probably go with the Dorman brand plastic as I feel the risk would be acceptable, but I have never had to replace one yet so haven’t had to make that call.

Most guys on here will tell you to only go back with OEM plastic T-connectors. Their theory is that the factory T-connectors last 100k+ miles before cracking/breaking the first time.

Dorman replacements, on the other hand, seem to not last nearly as long. I can attest to this as I replaced my T-connectors twice with Dormans, and had failures, before finally talking to Paul about making these for us.

I personally cannot say whether or not the OEM plastic connectors are of any higher quality or not.

For me, I just don't trust the plastic ones after I had one snap off while pulling an enclosed trailer with 4 motorcycles in it up the side of a mountain. It dumped all the coolant in a matter of seconds. Thank God I was able to find an abandoned service station about a half mile up the road and pull in. I bypassed the heater core and refilled the coolant system from the melted ice in my cooler (it's a BIG cooler, lol) and luckily I didn't do any damage to the engine.

I learned along time ago that it's always cheaper to do something right the first time than to have to redo it again multiple times. For me I don't lose sleep over $200. It's worth the $200 to never have another "mountain incident" to worry about again.

But again, it's not my truck or my money so...

I do think, at the very least though, that I would opt for the OEM.

My 2 bits. YMMV.

 

[gooffeyguy]

I think it's a wash.

The gruven T's won't break but to install them it adds extra hose and hose clamps on all ends. Actually adding more points of failure if you ask me.

Instead of the factory T quick connecting onto the heater core barb, rear core hard line, and water pump hose, the gruven T uses short pieces of hose and hose clamps to connect to the heater core and rear core hard line, and you cut the quick connect fitting off the end of the hose from the water pump and use a hise clamp.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[kbuskill]

I think it's a wash.

The gruven T's won't break but to install them it adds extra hose and hose clamps on all ends. Actually adding more points of failure if you ask me.

Instead of the factory T quick connecting onto the heater core barb, rear core hard line, and water pump hose, the gruven T uses short pieces of hose and hose clamps to connect to the heater core and rear core hard line, and you cut the quick connect fitting off the end of the hose from the water pump and use a hise clamp.

2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

All good points...

I still trust the short pieces of SILICONE hose to not dry rot or get brittle and break like the plastic T-connectors. And hose clamps are used on everything and have been for decades so no big deal for me there either.

 

[Geotrash]

+1 on the rationale behind the Gruven tees. I just ordered a set to proactively replace mine on our 2012 Denali ahead of the summer travel season coming up. The hoses and clamps aren't the source of risk with this system, it's the choice to use a type of plastic in the original design that is susceptible to degrading and fatigue over time. And the field evidence suggests that the Dorman parts use a plastic that's even more susceptible given the increased failure rates. For me, ~$150 for aluminum replacements is a no-brainer. I learned with aircraft many years ago that any time I can take a failure risk from low to zero - especially at a reasonable cost, it's worth it. There are places I drive with my family where breaking down would be dangerous.

Thanks to Ken for getting the idea off the ground with a manufacturer.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[gooffeyguy]

Of course, with aircraft if something fails it could mean falling out of the sky and death, not just having to pull over and either bypass the heater core or replace them, which is pretty easy with the factory quick-connects.

Do you use run-flat tires?

 

[Foggy]

Does anyone have a part # for the GM part #'s for these Tees ??
I've found the dorman and SKP .. But if i'm going to do plastic, I'd like to
stick with the oems