Love it dub!!!!
Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
It's probably a gear-reduction starter instead of a direct drive like the OE. This allows them to produce equal or greater torque using smaller parts.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I think its the same as what I took off. Unless they shrunk the motor to fit a planetary assembly in the same case as the non-gear reduction starter. I never paid enough attention to the cranking speed of the starter to know any different. I wish I had recorded before and after videos. I document every-damned-thing else...
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KidWgn
Certified Kid Hauler
You do! That's why your thread is T/Y/S/A gold! I need to get better at documenting
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Drove it to a church for my brother and SIL's tenth year anniversary and vow renewal ceremony, then to his house for noms, then moved it once while there, then drove back home.
I specified all that to recount that I started it four times throughout the course of the evening. It really seems like it is spinning faster when starting and it starts up quicker. Starter still sounds pretty dang cool to me.
I specified all that to recount that I started it four times throughout the course of the evening. It really seems like it is spinning faster when starting and it starts up quicker. Starter still sounds pretty dang cool to me.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Took a vid of the new starter sound. I'm convinced it's spinning the engine faster. It starts a little quicker. Supposedly, it's only a 1kw motor:
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Finally finished the evaporator core cleaning and cabin filter retrofit-
Bought a piece of 16" thin wall PVC pipe (some kind of pre-made sink connector piece) then softened it with the heat gun to flatten it. Ugly but very functional. Taped it to the shop vac with painter's tape cuz that was the first tape I could get my hands on and I didn't have many fcuks left to give with this project:
Still looks gross but it's a lot better than what it was and I was over leaning into the floorboard at this point:
Holding filter in place for the pic:
Closure installed.
I left the blower on high with all vents closed except for the one on the far right of the dash so I could reach it to feel. I didn't notice any excessive reduction in volume out of the vent. Doesn't matter, it's done. Spent most of the time getting that screw in front of the subwoofer installed.
Bought a piece of 16" thin wall PVC pipe (some kind of pre-made sink connector piece) then softened it with the heat gun to flatten it. Ugly but very functional. Taped it to the shop vac with painter's tape cuz that was the first tape I could get my hands on and I didn't have many fcuks left to give with this project:
Still looks gross but it's a lot better than what it was and I was over leaning into the floorboard at this point:
Holding filter in place for the pic:
Closure installed.
I left the blower on high with all vents closed except for the one on the far right of the dash so I could reach it to feel. I didn't notice any excessive reduction in volume out of the vent. Doesn't matter, it's done. Spent most of the time getting that screw in front of the subwoofer installed.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Accidentally hit the power fold button the other day. RH mirror folded, LH mirror motor just ran and now the mirror is a little floppy. It has always been clunky in operation so I just avoided using it. Almost pulled the trigger on the Grüven motor and brass gear kit but remembered an ex-neighbor replaced his entire LH mirror assembly cuz the electrochromatic mirror turned brown. He gave me the original mirror in case I wanted it for parts. I'm now even more glad he did! I dug it out and it felt solid at the joint. So I'm gonna either swap it on and use my glass and painted cap or harvest the motor assembly from it to put in mine. Gonna pull the door panel to plug it in and test it first.
I saw the puddle light and it reminded me of the direct-swap LED replacements. They're only $25, but I like COB LEDs, kustom projektz and seeing how cheaply I can replicate stupid stuff if not improve it. I took the puddle light from the mirror and used a small screwdriver to pry the clear lens from the housing. I measured the available space in the housing and ordered some COB panels for around $5/pair. Ordered two pair in case one was broken or to make Tahoe Twin a set. But, found out after ordering that he doesn't have 'em. Oh well.
I saw the puddle light and it reminded me of the direct-swap LED replacements. They're only $25, but I like COB LEDs, kustom projektz and seeing how cheaply I can replicate stupid stuff if not improve it. I took the puddle light from the mirror and used a small screwdriver to pry the clear lens from the housing. I measured the available space in the housing and ordered some COB panels for around $5/pair. Ordered two pair in case one was broken or to make Tahoe Twin a set. But, found out after ordering that he doesn't have 'em. Oh well.
The world just seems right when you tinker dawg. Gives me hope.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Just my luck... The mirror my neighbor gave me years ago, while not loose at the joint like mine, has a stripped gear as well. So now I get to take it apart and replace the gear with either the metal or plastic one. I'm fine with the plastic one since it should last me a long time. But if I can upgrade to the metal gear easily and cheaply, I will. This will involve comparing the motor to one of the few I have in my hobby box to see what all this "internally grounded" noise is about.
Plans are to repair this motor assembly then swap it into mine to make the repair as fast as possible. Then I'll repair my original and have it as a backup. I think it can be used on either side, might require rotating a part 180°. Gonna have to watch the video again.
Fun fact: The mirror my neighbor gave me was made two months and two days after the one on my Tahoe.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
My transmission dipstick doesn't lock in place in the tube. New OE ones aren't so plentiful and, therefore, pricey. Despite the few issues the reviews outlined, I bought the Dorman replacement. Compared to my original, it looks like it'd work fine, I just don't know for how long. I don't like the light red color of the handle and one of the reviews said the plastic is more brittle than the original. I considered swapping the good parts from the Dorman to mine, but fixed mine way easier, faster and cheaper-
One of the problem areas of the Dorman dipstick is the huge loop at the end. There were reports that it gets hung up at the end of the tube. Solution is to reshape the loop to match the original or (much easier) just cut it off:
I can't say why mine has this gap. But it's why the rubber part doesn't bulge when the handle is flipped to the locked position. Comparing it to the Dorman, it looks as if the rubber has shrunk lengthwise. It's still very pliable and bulges just fine with that gap filled and handle locked:
The cross pin is still in place, so the slack is not from that:
I decided to try just taking up the slack and seeing what happens. Ideally, I'd use a piece of dense rubber or plastic. But everything I found within a 10-minute search was too thick or too thin. Just as a test of concept, I used a 5/16" washer since its OD wasn't too big. I used some dykes to cut it across as I marked the other washer to the right. I did it this way so there would be virtually no chance it'd ever rotate and slip off. Yes, a split lock washer would've accomplished the same, but all I found were 3/8". And there's no real space to grab each half of the washer to twist it flat after it's installed:
It took up just the right amount of slack to make it bulge and be a nice firm grip inside the tube. I'm gonna leave it, but if I run across something better than the washer, I'll swap it. My only problem with the washer is the hole is too big to keep it centered within the diameter of the rubber. So I have to hold it or jiggle the handle when reinserting the dipstick if it doesn't pop into position on its own. It's a very minor hurdle that adds milliseconds to the reinstallation of the dipstick. But if I can make it work 100% like original with no extra thought or effort, I will:
I kept the packaging for the Dorman dipstick and cut it very cleanly to open it in case I'd be returning it. I'm glad I am. This free fix saved me $27.
One of the problem areas of the Dorman dipstick is the huge loop at the end. There were reports that it gets hung up at the end of the tube. Solution is to reshape the loop to match the original or (much easier) just cut it off:
I can't say why mine has this gap. But it's why the rubber part doesn't bulge when the handle is flipped to the locked position. Comparing it to the Dorman, it looks as if the rubber has shrunk lengthwise. It's still very pliable and bulges just fine with that gap filled and handle locked:
The cross pin is still in place, so the slack is not from that:
I decided to try just taking up the slack and seeing what happens. Ideally, I'd use a piece of dense rubber or plastic. But everything I found within a 10-minute search was too thick or too thin. Just as a test of concept, I used a 5/16" washer since its OD wasn't too big. I used some dykes to cut it across as I marked the other washer to the right. I did it this way so there would be virtually no chance it'd ever rotate and slip off. Yes, a split lock washer would've accomplished the same, but all I found were 3/8". And there's no real space to grab each half of the washer to twist it flat after it's installed:
It took up just the right amount of slack to make it bulge and be a nice firm grip inside the tube. I'm gonna leave it, but if I run across something better than the washer, I'll swap it. My only problem with the washer is the hole is too big to keep it centered within the diameter of the rubber. So I have to hold it or jiggle the handle when reinserting the dipstick if it doesn't pop into position on its own. It's a very minor hurdle that adds milliseconds to the reinstallation of the dipstick. But if I can make it work 100% like original with no extra thought or effort, I will:
I kept the packaging for the Dorman dipstick and cut it very cleanly to open it in case I'd be returning it. I'm glad I am. This free fix saved me $27.
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I will do the same. I have the sloppy dipstick problem too.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I just went to the garage for something and saw I have small sheets of textured ABS plastic used for making interior panels like custom electronic install kits, switch panels, gauge panels, etc... Old school stuff before 3D printers. I could easily cut a circle from one of those. Heat up a tiny screwdriver to melt a rectangle in the center to fit the dipstick and use a razor or Xacto knife to slice a thin line down the center. It'd be a press-fit over the dipstick and would kinda snap into place.
GDMIT I been through all of this!!!!! Where is my GD pic....
Here I took a pic of a shim I made out of aluminum to install under the lever. These will be on sale for $49.95 each.
Sparksalot
Elite Member
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Pulled the trans dipstick out to replace that washer with a piece of custom-formed ABS plastic. After being smashed in one position for so long, the washer stayed in position. So I left it as-is and found more important things to do.
