Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
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iamdub
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Clean af as always dub. One of these days I'll get around to cobbling something together for mine
Good yob (hecho en USA)
Thank ya.
BTW, I'm happy to report that the mesh didn't melt after our drive yesterday.
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iamdub
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Finally made time to give 'er some love this past Sunday.
It's been about 10 months and a hair under 5,000 miles, so I drained the oil and took a sample mid-drain to send to Blackstone:
Drained the catch can. I got what I'm estimating to be about 2.5 ounces. Before the engine work, I drained pretty much exactly 3 ounces every time. This past 5K miles have been the hardest miles I've ever put on it- lots of WOT, sustained 3-4K RPM from holding it in lower gears, lots of winding to redline (6,000 RPM), etc.:
Also, I didn't have to add any make-up oil during this 5K interval. It was a little less than 1/2 quart low. Before, I think I added about 3/4 quart between changes. Between this and the catch can drain, I'm pleasantly surprised.
The Denso radiator I installed a few months ago had the built-in engine oil cooler, so I bought the OE oil cooler line set. I don't think I need an EOC, but the rad had the thicker core I wanted. Between the rad and EOC line set, the rad was still about the same price (or cheaper?) than the non-EOC OE rad. I installed the line set while I had the oil drained:
It's been about 10 months and a hair under 5,000 miles, so I drained the oil and took a sample mid-drain to send to Blackstone:
Drained the catch can. I got what I'm estimating to be about 2.5 ounces. Before the engine work, I drained pretty much exactly 3 ounces every time. This past 5K miles have been the hardest miles I've ever put on it- lots of WOT, sustained 3-4K RPM from holding it in lower gears, lots of winding to redline (6,000 RPM), etc.:
Also, I didn't have to add any make-up oil during this 5K interval. It was a little less than 1/2 quart low. Before, I think I added about 3/4 quart between changes. Between this and the catch can drain, I'm pleasantly surprised.
The Denso radiator I installed a few months ago had the built-in engine oil cooler, so I bought the OE oil cooler line set. I don't think I need an EOC, but the rad had the thicker core I wanted. Between the rad and EOC line set, the rad was still about the same price (or cheaper?) than the non-EOC OE rad. I installed the line set while I had the oil drained:
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iamdub
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My oil pan is Helicoiled and the plug has been replaced. Apparently, the stock plug should have a magnet. I wanted a magnetic one, but I didn't know if the thread was the stock size or if it had been changed. So, I decided I'd just make my existing plug magnetic, but extra. Got these two neodymium (N45 for you nerds) rod magnets, 1/4" D x 1.5" L off ebay. I was gonna use one magnet, but they were sold as a pair and the other one stuck to it so well that I saw no reason to not use it:
This is how far they'll reach into the pan, minus however much I set one into the plug:
Before I pressed a magnet into the plug, I stuck them to the tip and inserted them into the oil pan and moved them around a few times to grab as much metal sludge as possible. This may be an unnerving sight to some people. But, considering this is the first full-term oil change since having the engine apart and installing all those new parts almost a year ago, I'm not the least bit concerned... yet:
Used the drill press to drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep down the center of the plug. Not bad for eyeballing center:
I thought I was gonna have to epoxy the magnet in place, but it was a firm press-fit, so it's not going anywhere. I ended up with right at a 65mm (2.56") strong magnetic tip:
I held one magnet and slung it a few good times, trying to fling the other one off. Best I could do was make it flip around and stick parallel to the other. So I don't see that "unsecured" one going anywhere. It'll be about a year before we find out what it catches. By then, I'll probably forget it has magnets and be surprised when I pull it out.
This is how far they'll reach into the pan, minus however much I set one into the plug:
Before I pressed a magnet into the plug, I stuck them to the tip and inserted them into the oil pan and moved them around a few times to grab as much metal sludge as possible. This may be an unnerving sight to some people. But, considering this is the first full-term oil change since having the engine apart and installing all those new parts almost a year ago, I'm not the least bit concerned... yet:
Used the drill press to drill a 1/4" hole about 1/2" deep down the center of the plug. Not bad for eyeballing center:
I thought I was gonna have to epoxy the magnet in place, but it was a firm press-fit, so it's not going anywhere. I ended up with right at a 65mm (2.56") strong magnetic tip:
I held one magnet and slung it a few good times, trying to fling the other one off. Best I could do was make it flip around and stick parallel to the other. So I don't see that "unsecured" one going anywhere. It'll be about a year before we find out what it catches. By then, I'll probably forget it has magnets and be surprised when I pull it out.
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iamdub
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And, finally, I finished the Big 3 Upgrade since my battery terminals were delivered:
Cut the factory battery terminals off the factory ground wires and soldered, crimped and heat-shrinked lugs to them:
Copied the factory positive cables with the 1/0:
Also made one for the starter:
Done. Yes, I could've use elbow lugs for the ones going at an angle, but it doesn't bother me enough to buy $15 specialty lugs.
Cut the factory battery terminals off the factory ground wires and soldered, crimped and heat-shrinked lugs to them:
Copied the factory positive cables with the 1/0:
Also made one for the starter:
Done. Yes, I could've use elbow lugs for the ones going at an angle, but it doesn't bother me enough to buy $15 specialty lugs.
Damn! Very nice! Excellent work! Need to do this...
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iamdub
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Oh- I changed my oil formulation up this time. I used 3 quarts of 15w-40 and 3 of 5w-40 for an average of 10w-40. All Rotella T6. As expected and desired, my oil pressure is about 5 psi lower. When warm, it doesn't reach 80 psi at 6,000 RPM any more. It looks to be around 75 max. At hot idle, it's about 32 psi, hits 40 right around 1,500 RPM and stays around 42-45 at cruising speeds/RPMs.
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iamdub
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Thank you. I can't really reap the rewards of it just yet. But I will when I get to the audio upgrades. At least, for now, I know everything in my electrical system shouldn't be ailing for power.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Awesome work as always! You never fail to impress me with your abilities to make solutions at home. That magnet is a nice touch! Big 3 is very clean too.
I wouldn't worry about the metals. Hell, my yukon always has some on the plug (after I installed the magnetic one). I need to test the drain plug threads and pick one up for the avalanche.
I wouldn't worry about the metals. Hell, my yukon always has some on the plug (after I installed the magnetic one). I need to test the drain plug threads and pick one up for the avalanche.
Monz11
Full Access Member
Chris,
did you wrap them electrical wires or did you buy em that way? Nice touch, before I drop the engine in I need to do this. Pls hook me up with the lug part numbers, etc., so I can get a move on when I get back stateside?
Thanks
Dantheman1540
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That metal on the magnet is nothing, very nice big 3 I really need to do it one of these days along with a second battery.
Those are some sexy cables
@iamdub Great job buddy thanks for posting.
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iamdub
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Thanks, Tyler!
Yeah, I'm not gonna worry about the metal until I drain the oil in 10-12 months. It's just proof that engines wear. I'm doing what I can to slow down the wear- everything except for not having fun with it. I feed her plenty of lubrication from strong oil pressure and a healthy dose of zinc between the Rotella and Lucas ZDDP additive. This 5.3 owes me NOTHING. If it has a catastrophic failure, I can only hope I'm in a position to get a 6.2 like I wanted in the first place.
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swathdiver
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Uh oh, baffle is tearing, time to rig or replace! Might make your water temp go up a couple of degrees.
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iamdub
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Thank you. BTW, your races start tomorrow, yeah?
The wires are just 1/0 welding cables. Nothing fancy, but good USA-made stuff. A buddy had some leftover from when he re-made the cables on his work rig and sold me 10' of each, red and black, for $20. I've been saving the mesh wrap stuff from an ongoing project at work. I get a 10' length of it in every kit and it's not needed. It's a tube and has to be slipped on over the wire. It doesn't expand enough to fit over some of the plugs on the engine harness or I'd use it on those, too. The adhesive-lined heat shrink tubing and lugs all were from Amazon.
Heat shrink tubing: https://www.amazon.com/XHF-Pcs-Waterproof-Insulation-Oil-Proof/dp/B08KXX7R88
Lugs: https://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Welding-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00O5BAY24/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=temco+0+1/0+awg+5/16"+hole+tinned+copper&qid=1620263521&sr=8-2&th=1
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iamdub
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iamdub
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I had a feeling you'd call me out on that! I've put em back in place countless times, but they don't stay put. I'm sure the 130MPH winds have something to do with it. I have a couple thin mudflaps I scored off the roadside I'll use to make new ones. That's on my list for when I install the Tru-Cool.
swathdiver
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Hehehe! There are four fasteners on that one and the mud flap is a good idea. I went OE and spent too much money, over $25 each!
I'm all about ballin on a budget, my alter ego is CheapSkate Charlie
