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Growing up doesn't have to suck
- Thread starter iamdub
- Start date
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Was out to get dinner and run errands last night with the windows down to enjoy the cool air. Got to the restaurant and my window wouldn't go up. Motor would try but glass was stuck about 3/8" up. I recalled hearing and dismissed an odd noise when I first put it down. Ended up borrowing tools in an O'Reilly's parking lot to pop off the door panel and push the window up while my youngest one pulled up on the switch:
Pulled the regulator this morning to investigate. I used some suction cups on the glass along the outside window sweep to hold the window up while the regulator was out. Found a cable had frayed and wadded itself up on the drum inside the housing. Out of the three (I think that's how many I counted) cables, this one was the only one that didn't go in a nylon sheath. I decided I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it with what I had on hand. I had a roll of 1/16" galvanized cable, which is a little bigger than the original, but looked close enough to give it a shot:
Drilled a 1/16" hole straight through a 5/16" bolt:
Then chucked it up in a drill to spin it while I turned it down with a grinder, checking it with a digital micrometer, until it matched the original cable bead/spring seat:
Pulled the regulator this morning to investigate. I used some suction cups on the glass along the outside window sweep to hold the window up while the regulator was out. Found a cable had frayed and wadded itself up on the drum inside the housing. Out of the three (I think that's how many I counted) cables, this one was the only one that didn't go in a nylon sheath. I decided I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it with what I had on hand. I had a roll of 1/16" galvanized cable, which is a little bigger than the original, but looked close enough to give it a shot:
Drilled a 1/16" hole straight through a 5/16" bolt:
Then chucked it up in a drill to spin it while I turned it down with a grinder, checking it with a digital micrometer, until it matched the original cable bead/spring seat:
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Getting there:
Closer yet... :
Good enough for me:
Used a chunk of steel with a 1/16" hole through it to act as a cable bead:
Spring fits like it should and the whole thing compresses inside a cylindrical hole:
Didn't take any more pics, but all that was left was to make a cable bead for the other end at the same distance as the original. I drilled a 1/16" hole in a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum flat stock, cut it out and ground it down to a size that would fit into the hole on the cable drum. After routing the cable around a pulley, wrapping it around the drum four times (I counted before I took the old one off) and locking the other end into the notch on the drum, I greased the hell out of inside of the housing and closed it back up. I reattached the motor drive to the guide to finish reassembly.
I liberally greased everything that moved or slid and tested it with a 12V power supply. It seemed to operate quietly and smoothly so I reinstalled the regulator and door panel. Everything else on the regulator looked to be in fine working order so I feel this will last for a while.
Closer yet... :
Good enough for me:
Used a chunk of steel with a 1/16" hole through it to act as a cable bead:
Spring fits like it should and the whole thing compresses inside a cylindrical hole:
Didn't take any more pics, but all that was left was to make a cable bead for the other end at the same distance as the original. I drilled a 1/16" hole in a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum flat stock, cut it out and ground it down to a size that would fit into the hole on the cable drum. After routing the cable around a pulley, wrapping it around the drum four times (I counted before I took the old one off) and locking the other end into the notch on the drum, I greased the hell out of inside of the housing and closed it back up. I reattached the motor drive to the guide to finish reassembly.
I liberally greased everything that moved or slid and tested it with a 12V power supply. It seemed to operate quietly and smoothly so I reinstalled the regulator and door panel. Everything else on the regulator looked to be in fine working order so I feel this will last for a while.
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Danny3737
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I liberally greased everything that moved or slid and tested it with a 12V power supply. It seemed to operate quietly and smoothly so I reinstalled the regulator and door panel. Everything else on the regulator looked to be in fine working order so I feel this will last for a while.
Thank you! I just wish I had a lathe!
Thank you! I just wish I had a lathe!
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Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
That's some great ingenuity. I remember once changing my ds window regulator and the cable came unwound. Took me over an hr to figure out how to get it back in there correctly--and get it to stay. Great job McGyver!
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
That’s definitely a macgyver right there! Fantastic work! Wish I had skills like that! Haha
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Thanks guys. I just got back from running more errands and was trying to find reasons to put the window up and down!
Since I now don't have to spend $80-$100+ on a regulator, I decided to order some H3 mounts and transmission mount. I'm in a "git 'er done" mood! I still wanted to make my own mounts with the broken ones I bought from other members, but "ain't nobody got time fo' dat".
Since I now don't have to spend $80-$100+ on a regulator, I decided to order some H3 mounts and transmission mount. I'm in a "git 'er done" mood! I still wanted to make my own mounts with the broken ones I bought from other members, but "ain't nobody got time fo' dat".
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Just finished installing those H3 mounts and stock trans mount. The driver side was an effin' BREEZE compared to the passenger side. Gonna clean up then take 'er for a victory lap.
Bombsquad85
Full Access Member
Nice work!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Thank you!
I'd like to update that the driver's window is now working even better than it did right after I repaired and reassembled it. I'd say this is because the grease is now better distributed and coated on the tracks.
I have another small mod to do that involves removing the door panels, so I'm going to clean and lubricate the other three regulators as preventative maintenance.
I'd also like to report that I'm STILL not used to the new motor mounts and am continuing to be reserved when accelerating.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Deleted double post.
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Just curious where you bought the H3 mount from... I found out my drivers side mount is shot again... oh joy.
Gone slap the hummer mount in and call it done... hopefully for good.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Rock Auto. Pretty sure it was the first time I ever bought from them. It's tough to beat an Amazon Prime account, but RA took the win this time with price, availability, AND a 5% discount code on top of that. I've now added them to my list of sources.
Didn't I buy a blown mount from you? If I can remember that, it surely wasn't very long ago. At least the driver's side is the easy one!
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Stock-versus-H3 mount comparison pics:
kbuskill
***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
You most definitely got some from me and that was maybe 2 ish years ago as I recall.
I will definitely be replacing mine with the H3 mount.
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iamdub
Full Access Member
Ok. It was you I got two from and someone else I got one from.
Regardless, two years is way too short a life for a motor mount!
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
How come the H3 mounts are so much beefier looking?! I would think that a tahoe or burb being a bigger truck would already those beefier motor mounts given that’s a bigger truck with a bigger motor? Why does the H3 have bigger?
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iamdub
Full Access Member
I think they're about the same size, just the shape and design is much different. The stock mount is hydraulic, meaning it's basically a thick rubber bladder filled with fluid to absorb vibrations. It's a weak design, though. The H3 mount is more of a traditional design with solid rubber encapsulated by a metal shell.
@Bigbeardenali1992 Chase, just want to make sure you know stock in @iamdub pic is on the left and new h3 is on the right.
