gmc envoy 4wd actuator broke off in transfer case

[fraddie321]

am i screwed or will it be possible to get it out, weve tried all our pliers, prying it off just lossening it up but cant get that actuator housing off, it feels like corrosion rust and heat naturally welded it together, also feel like this is a part thats never been replaced, pls help any advide would be much appreciated, i bout this car about a couple month ago thinking its control arms sway bars and ball joints were the only thing needing fixing and eventually noticed the axle was shot but not only that it grinded on the housing to much and now cant get that off. again please and thank you

 

[Geotrash]

@TollKeeper

 

[George B]

This is on the passenger side right?

 

[TollKeeper]

www.GMTNation.com is where you need to be for the Envoy/Trailblazer

Good ol' Galvanic Corrosion!

You are not screwed, but you have some work ahead of you...

Start by doing yourself a favor, Pull the caliper off, and put it to the side, undo the tie rod end from the knuckle, unplug the ABS wire and pull the wire out of the clips, and disconnect the lower ball joint from the lower control arm, do the same for the upper control arm, and take the 2 bolts out of the strut at the top. One last thing to do, and it can be done in 2 different ways. Take the 2 bolts off where the lower control arm meets the control arm mount, or, take the big nut off the lower strut mount and pound the boss off the tapered clevise. I prefer to take the lower strut nut off, as this will make it so you dont have to compress the suspension when putting it back together. This will allow the entire spindle assembly to drop out, Leaving just the upper control arm, and lower control arm depending on which way you did it.

You might already be at a point you can just undo the 2 upper strut bolts, since you do have the CV Axle out.

You will need this room for the next series of steps...

CAREFULLY drill holes in the remaining chunks of the disconnect to break it up. Once you get it to break a chunk out of that part the rest should pop free. Just don't drill too deep and go through the oil pan!

You are not the first, and certainly not the last, that has had this happen to them. Dont know if you will be able to see these pics of others..

4x4 problems with front differential

Hello to all the fellow GMT users on here. I am new to forums but think I have the gist of it. I have recently been having trouble with my 4x4 not engaging in my 2004 trailblazer. Switch it over to 4hi and the actuator and transfer case whirring sounds are present and the indicator light...

gmtnation.com

When putting it back together, use some anti-seize lube on that collar to prevent this moving forward.

There is a recommended disconnect, that has the lowest occurrence of failures, but I cant remember what the brand name is.. Been forever since I dug into that thing!

Edit: That axle end piece you see there.. It will slide right out, and allow you more room to fight with it.

 

[TollKeeper]

You might be tempted to drill a couple holes, and try threading in a bolt and use that bolt to PUSH the remaining piece out.. DONT DO IT. The wall behind that goes straight into the oil pan, and that particular wall is thin. Some have done it with success.. In fact most have been successful. But if you have the failure, than you got to replace the oil pan. Not a fun job! Be glad you dont have the V8 model. Even less room to do this job.

This is on the passenger side right?

Yes it is..

@TollKeeper

Thanks for the invite!

 

[fraddie321]

i will most likely have to go that route if all else fails, ill still have it stuck in there if i don't try, i will def keep in mind that i have very little drill hole space but im thinking that will be possible. also thank you for letting me know i will def move all that out of the way make it go smoother, coincidentally i am also replacing the ball joint control arm and tie rods so ill just have to undo the tie rod i believe, again thank you so much, im gonna give it everything i got tomorrow and ill def give an update if it was a success.

 

[TollKeeper]

i will most likely have to go that route if all else fails, ill still have it stuck in there if i don't try, i will def keep in mind that i have very little drill hole space but im thinking that will be possible. also thank you for letting me know i will def move all that out of the way make it go smoother, coincidentally i am also replacing the ball joint control arm and tie rods so ill just have to undo the tie rod i believe, again thank you so much, im gonna give it everything i got tomorrow and ill def give an update if it was a success.

Not sure where you live, but if you dont need the 4x4, there is a process of removing it, and not having warning lights on the dash.

But if you bought a 4x4, you likely want the 4x4..

 

[fraddie321]

yeah its preferable to get this fixed

 

[fraddie321]

Michigan is weird

 

[TollKeeper]

Ahhhh.. Michigan. That explains the rust, and the galvanic corrosion.

My Saab, same thing as a Envoy Denali, spent its whole life here in Colorado.. And the disconnect just fell off when I unbolted it.

My Envoy, had the same problem with the disconnect as yours, spent its whole life in Missouri. Lucky for me, it was still under warranty, and the dealer had to fight with it!

 

[fraddie321]

lmao fr

 

[TollKeeper]

I did some corrections on my posts above, in case you need to reference it while you are doing this.

The best reference for this is www.gmtnation.com . The whole website is geared to that truck, and there are some really knowledgeable folks over there.

Just ask @OR VietVet !

 

[fraddie321]

thank you, if i run into any problems tomorrow ill prolly backtrack and ask them

 

[TollKeeper]

I missed a step, and corrected it above..

 

[fraddie321]

This were I at so far this thing is such a b!c!h I wish it would just come out but what do you think do I just slowly keep at it each day, got 20 before work over for that's bout were she at for todayits so sad bc I have the brand new actuator housing crap and new axles but can't get that stupid thing

 

[fraddie321]

The gear in the center moves in a way that I would think it's ok but should it slight out or nah, just curious, it doesn't tho, feel like it'd be easier if it did

 

[TollKeeper]

It looks like the section on the lower right hand corner is completely out?

If so, taking a drift/punch, and going on the right and left of it, and seeing if it will push in, and break the corrosion, is where you are at..

As I said, its been years since this has been an issue for me.. I suggest you post on the other forum about it, and get some more insight than my old and fuddled brain is remembering.

www.gmtnation.com
And post in this post maybe.. Or start your own referring to this post..

4x4 problems with front differential

Hello to all the fellow GMT users on here. I am new to forums but think I have the gist of it. I have recently been having trouble with my 4x4 not engaging in my 2004 trailblazer. Switch it over to 4hi and the actuator and transfer case whirring sounds are present and the indicator light...

gmtnation.com

I am also on that forum with this same screen name, so if I can help there I will.

Not many on this forum have had this, because these full size trucks that this forum is about have a separate unit, whereas you and I have a integrated unit.

 

[fraddie321]

I did it i elly did itthank you for the advice lmao i how no idea what to do but she got 4wd again new axles new outter tie rods new upper and lower ball joints and new control arms lmao i did a lil extra while waiting for parts and made her look pretty gotta take one random day to do the rears but i cant believe i was sucsessfulim just a 21 year old detailerlmao i make metal shiny so i just feel alittle acomplishedim very gratful tho would have been lost, she drive so much better now lowkey tho would it be rude to say the lower ball joints were as difficult as it was to drill that housing out