GM Repurchased 2nd 2015 Denali--Be Cautious of 2015s

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Prormk

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I'm agreeing with tylus. I put my Yukon XL slt in manual shift / V8 mode and drove consistent speeds between 30 and 50. The droning was totally gone. When it is in V4 mode and driving a constant speed between 30 and 50 mph, it feels like the trans is in WAY too high of a gear, causing the engine to bog and struggle, thus dispersing a pulsing shudder throughout. I'm not at all saying that's what's going on, but that's what it FEELS like. Can even feel it in the steering wheel. Put it in manual shift mode, not even a hint of vibes or shudder buffeting. In my mechanical opinion, it's an exhaust gas path design issue somewhere in the system.

Anyone else relate?
 

wot_denali

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i think with this setup no more cabin pressure

yukon.jpg
 

romeo serban

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There is a fix for this now.

What the **** are we talking about here. I drove vehicles that were build 25 years ago and didn't have this problem. I bought a 2015 Chevy Tahoe, brand new and there is NO SUN ROOF or whatever is called . It's raining in not even when I am driving. First I noticed a hissing , like a window is not fully closed and then it started. POOR QUALITY. And that is not the only issue. Do they have anybody checking this vehicles out when they leave the plant? Remember the "PAINT JOB" in the early 90 GM vehicles ? They were peeling of like a snake in the sun. Worst cars in the world don't do that. Hyunday Pony had a better paint.
GM should take them all back and replace them . I don't think there is anything else to do

#PIT5318B: Wind Buffeting Drone Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming And/Or Water Leak - (Jul 30, 2015)
Subject: Wind Buffeting Drone Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming And/Or Water Leak


Models: 2015 Cadillac Escalade Models
2015 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe
2015 GMC Yukon Models

This PI was superseded to update Recommendation/Instructions. Please discard PIT5318A.

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern

Note: In some cases, correcting the roof bows may not eliminate the body pressure booming issue due to the fact that the roof is being excited by some other input(s). These other areas will need to be addressed if the body pressure booming is still present at the completion of this PI. Examples of inputs that can excite the roof may be:

Tires with excessive road force (Reference "condition 1" in the latest version of PI1354)
Exhaust back pressure valve issues (Reference the latest version of PIT5404)
Rear axle related issues such as pitchline runout (Reference "Other Sources of Vibrations" Step 3 in the latest version of PI1354)

Some owners may comment of a wind buffeting/droan noise or body/pressure booming (the feeling of pressure in the ears) while driving. The body booming issue may be more noticeable when the engine is in V4 mode for active fuel management (AFM). In some cases, they may also notice a water leak from the headliner area, if equipped with a sunroof.

These concerns could be caused by the roof sheet metal no longer being attached fully to the roof bows (1). On trucks with a sunroof, it may be noticed that the rear edge of the sunroof glass is considerably lower than the roof (2). This is due to the roof sheet metal being detached from the roof bow directly behind the sunroof opening (3).
Object ID: 3973291Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Object ID: 3973293Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Object ID: 3973294Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Recommendation/Instructions

To correct this concern, apply panel vibration control material between the roof bow and roof sheet metal, along with foam shim material when necessary.

Remove the headliner to access the underside of the roof. Inspect all 4 roof bows for insufficient bonding to the roof sheet metal (4). Any roof bow that is not bonded to the sheet metal will need to be repaired.
Object ID: 3973295Click here for detailed picture of the image.

Use the following repair for all 4 bows on trucks without a sunroof, and for the 3 rear bows on trucks with a sunroof:

Use a plastic scraper or similar tool to remove the old foam. Measure the gap between the top of the roof bow and bottom of the roof sheet metal. If the gap is 1/4" (6mm) or greater, use a combination of 3/4" wide by 5/16" or 7/16" thick foam shim material (as listed below) to fill the gap between the roof bow and the sheet metal. Care should be taken to add only the correct thickness of foam to fill the gap so it does not push up on the roof. Cut the foam into 5 inch lengths and evenly place in five spots along the roof bow. With the foam shim material in place, or if the gap is less than 1/4" (6mm), use the panel control vibration material (as listed below) to fill the voids between the roof bow and sheet metal. In some cases, it may take a couple layers of material to fill the void.

Repair for 1st bow on trucks with a sunroof:

Using a plastic scraper or similar tool, remove the old foam. Use the panel control vibration material (listed below) and apply along the top of the 1st roof bow. Obtain two 2x4 pieces of wood long enough to span the opening of the sunroof. Wrap one of the 2x4's with a cloth to protect the roof paint and place it on top of the roof, see NOTE below. Place the second 2x4 underneath the roof bow, sandwiching the roof sheet metal and roof bow between the two pieces of wood. Clamp everything together using three C-clamps as shown in the photo below (5 & 6). The clamps will need to stay in place until the panel control vibration material is dry.

Note: When placing the cloth wrapped 2x4 on the top/roof, pay close attention that it is far enough forward so that the 2x4's rear edge does not contact the roof's raised ribs. The roof ribs may be damaged/dented if the 2x4 is placed on them when clamped down
Object ID: 3973296Click here for detailed picture of the image.
 

romeo serban

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I'm not particularly brand loyal. I have a Silverado and a Super Duty sitting side by side as my daily drivers. I just like the change up. I prefer the Ford, but have no complaints at all with the Chevy.

If you are hooked on GM, I would definitely take a Denali 2500 HD DuraMax for a test ride. You may fall in love with it. I would also highly recommend test driving a new Ford also.
I would try a Tundra
 

racefreak24

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I have 2015i with the 8 speed transmission. had issues since new not going into reverse. has been in dealer shop 3 times, still slipping. GMC is talking buy out, my Denali has 20,000. what should i hold out for on a buy out?
 

Parthery

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I think the buyout is what you paid less a deduction for the mileage. And you may need to negotiate to see if you can recover sales taxes and registration and title fees.
 

Lee Smith

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just got a 2016 Yukon xl denali 1/31. Only have about 60 miles on it, but I am not sure I notice the buffeting. I do notice that the road bumps seem to be more pronounced than they were on my old Yukon. Old yukon had 16" wheels and mud terrain tires. Maybe the larger sidewalls on the old yukon helped soak up the small road bumps? The denali has 20" wheels with the factory E rated tires.

Going to put a leveling kit on next couple of weeks and move up to a 295 55/20 tire to get more sidewall.

For those that have experienced the buffetting issue. Is it extremely obvious? Scale of 1 to 10 on the droning how loud would you say? I ask because I notice a little extra noise when I am only on the phone (bluetooth) or when the radio is turned all the way down. When the radio is at normal listening levels, it seems just fine.

Maybe they fixed the problem on the 2016s?
 

cardude2000

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When do they 'apply fixes or changes' etc to models mid year? Meaning, when did an 'S' become an 'I'...when will the next '2016x' happen?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chubbsy

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So you’re in the market for a 2015 Tahoe, Yukon, or Escalade? Sounds like a great idea! They look great, have cool technology, and a ton of horse power. Ready to shell out $55-$90k for one of these beauties? THINK AGAIN! You are about to assume a ton of risk on a platform which may be fundamentally flawed, in my opinion. Before you call me bitter or spiteful, please know that I grew up in a GM household and my grandmother and mother both worked for GM…GM is literally in my DNA. No one roots for GM more than me and no other make of car/truck has ever been in my garage besides GM in 25 years of ownership.

Are there great 2015s out there? You bet. Quite frankly I am jealous of those of you who own one. I wish I had the chance to enjoy my 2015 Denali. It took 5 months to get my first Denali. I guess I wasn’t lucky enough to get a “good” one. But you have to ask yourself, will you be “lucky” enough to get a good one? Notice how many used low-mile 2015s there are for sale? Do a 500 mile radius search from your own location…you will be surprised.

I owned TWO 2015 Yukon Denalis over the past 12 months. One built in June 2014, and the other built in November of 2014. BOTH were REPURCHASED by GM. Once is an accident, twice is a trend. We all know that GM would not be buying back vehicles at FULL purchase price if there was not an issue. What issue? A vehicle which caused headaches, ear pressure and dizziness while driving!

Before you think it’s an issue with me (perhaps my ears are more sensitive than others), think again. Every person who was in both vehicles felt/heard it. I went out of my way NOT to say something before someone rode with me just to make certain I was not hearing or feeling something that did not exist. The GM master technician described it as “turbulence” when he drove it. The final straw was about two weeks ago when I took a client to an event. He asked me for some gum because he said his ears were popping…I burst out laughing. It’s not just me.

Now for the details…

When I picked up my first Denali, I noticed a “booming” sound and the sensation that two rear windows were rolled down. Ear pressure was immediate and constant. I felt like I was SCUBA diving and could not clear my ears. It was most noticeable at 38mph and was the worst at 43mph. The co-owner of the dealer said the truck literally made her car sick driving it. I was not the only one. GM issued a Service Bulletin pertaining to the issue. #PIT5318 “Wind Buffeting Droan Type Noise And/Or Body Pressure Booming,” dated August 29, 2014. So they tore apart the roof and spent hours on the vehicle. End result: problem not fixed. So, they called in the field experts. They took off the wheels, rims, etc., and made an attempt to balance the vehicle. At NO point could the vehicle be balanced even with just the rims on it! Then, they flew in special shocks from the proving grounds and then road forced balanced. End result: problem still there. Keep in mind the dealer had my truck longer than I ever did. At that point, I said just give me my money back and I will order another one. Let’s just try again. GM repurchased the vehicle at full price. Sometimes things just happen, I thought.

So after getting my money back on the first one, what did I do? I ordered another one. Why? Because I am a man of my word and what are the odds of getting two lemons? And like I said earlier, I am a GM guy through and through. More about that later…

The second seemed perfect…at first. I drove it 30 miles before taking delivery. I did everything I could do to replicate the issue (ear pressure, booming, etc.). It was nothing like the first repurchased one. It seemed perfect. I finally had the truck of my dreams! Then, around 250 miles or so, the old familiar ear pressure and pounding in the head came back worse than ever. The booming and ear pressure at the same EXACT speed as the first one (38-43 mph). Same exact speeds! This is no coincidence. There may be fundamental design flaw somewhere in this platform, in my opinion. GM repurchased my second 2015 Denali. Once is an accident, twice is a trend...

But this second Denali, a 2015i, was WORSE than the first one on so many levels. The heat took forever to warm up (they changed the thermostat too), the third row seats never lied flat, so groceries in the cargo area just came crashing to the ground whenever I opened the rear liftgate. Everything electronically worked intermittently. Sometimes the heated seats worked, sometimes they didn’t. Sometimes the iPod connection worked in a USB port, sometimes it didn’t. And to top it off, the Onstar module had a complete failure. So, the Wi-Fi no longer worked, the navigation no longer worked, and the remote features (using your phone app) would not work either. (All of this is documented at the dealership, by the way). According to the malfunctioning navigation, I was driving in the middle of Lake Ontario for a few days. By the time I turned the second Denali in, the GPS had me close to entering the Atlantic Ocean hundreds of miles from my actual location. But I digress…

So why do I say buyer be cautious of ALL three platforms? Because not only did my two Yukons have the issue, the 2015 Tahoe GM put me in for a rental had the droaning and pressure too. (I had them put me in an Acadia instead because I could not tolerate the ear pressure after a few days). So last week, I test drove a 2015 Escalade with 8800 miles with a local dealer. We took it for a spin and guess what? Same issue at the same speeds! 38-43 mph. I asked the Caddy dealer if he noticed the pressure. His response was priceless: “Wow, I haven’t noticed that before…Not until now.” The test drive did not last long…

Now here is where it gets good. I admit, I am loyal to a fault. Borderline pathetic, I suppose. So, wanting to find a replacement which would suit my needs, I bought a one way plane ticket to Chicago and purchased a non-head pounding, non-ear pressure causing, 2014 Yukon Denali with low miles. I then drove it 9 hours back home. I stuck by GM. Again.

I went through hell and back with GM over this past year, taking precious time away from my business, wasting countless hours at the dealer and rental shops, enduring pounding headaches and lost more than $7,000 in sales taxes which has yet to be returned. Despite all of that, I purchased a THIRD GM truck within 12 months. I asked GM for one simple thing: I simply asked for reimbursement for my plane ticket to buy another GM vehicle as part of the repurchase. I asked for $250 measly dollars for enduring this year-long saga and for the pleasure of buying yet another GM product. Their response: tough luck. Too bad.

As for the buyback experience overall, all involved were quite helpful and very cordial. I was never frustrated with the sales manager or with anyone from GM corporate. They did not build or design the vehicle, so lashing out at them made no sense. The only negative experience I had was at the 11th hour when I returned the second vehicle. One of the co-owners begrudging shook my hand in the parking lot, threw his hands in the air and said, “you really put us through the paces.” He claimed the truck was fine…but REFUSED to go for a ride in it at ANY point throughout the process. He inferred I caused HIM an inconvenience! Laughable. I dropped CASH for all three GM of the vehicles this year. Don’t worry, if I ever buy another new GM vehicle it won’t be from his dealership after being treated so rudely at the very last minute. My cash will be spent elsewhere…

When it’s all said and done, I could summarize my 2015 experience in a simple word: Disappointed. Disappointed the truck I wanted for years failed on so many levels. Disappointed GM would fail to do enough R&D on their complete redesign, in my opinion. Disappointed my tax dollars bailed them out and as a result, I AM the one who lost money by doing business with GM. Disappointed my loyalty was completely shrugged off after 25 consecutive years of GM ownership.

Don’t be disappointed yourself. Buyers of 2015 Tahoes, Yukons , and Escalades be very cautious! I am not saying don’t buy GM products. Not at all…I own two GM vehicles. There are great 2015 trucks out there. Just be very, very weary of the 2015s. You just may want to wait until they get all the bugs out and HOPE the 2016’s are better.

I sincerely hope GM works hard to improve this platform in the near future and does a much better job in rewarding customers who have (blindly and perhaps, foolishly) stuck by them for so long.
Wow! Well Im having major electrical problems with my 2016 Tahoe. Ive been a die hard Chevy fan from 14 yrs old. Bought my first car, a 1955 Chevy 150 2dr when I was 14, my oldrr brother had to bring it home for me.
I have had a 2007 &2009 Tahoe LTZ both great suv's! This 2016 Tahoe LTZ is crap. More electrical problems than I can mention here an it doesn't have even 140 miles on it. One issue is the front camera issue that when it comes on it disable many safety systems, front collision avoidance, front braking alert, lane departure alert etc...... I have brought it in several times but the dealership says all they can do is clear the codes. They say its a known issue with no resolution yet from Gm. The TSB stating this is from late 2014.! WTH !
Anyway it cant be fixed and I cant get GM to exchange or buy back the vehicle. It kills me to say this but I have had it with GM! I saved so long to buy a NEW Tahoe and I got screwed. $70,000 for crap! And no help from dealership. God do I wish I had my old 2009 Tahoe back, but sold it to by this hot mess. GM screwed up this platform so bad. Seriously its almost making my eyes well up! My wife saw me looking at a pic of my old Tahoe. She started to cry for me. Thats how much of a Chevrolet fan houshold we are. And no one else makes an Suv with decent 8 cylinders.
I feel for you and read every word with sympathy.
 

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JasonDenali15

JasonDenali15

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Thanks, Kory. I feel for you too. They really screwed this up. Awful that you saved and saved only to be unhappy with a $70k purchase. I get it about you old Tahoe...I still wish I never traded in my '04 Denali. It ran like a champ with more than 150k miles. Don't take any crap from your dealer. These things have major issues.
 

Mikef

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Curious about the buyback...... Who paid the sales tax and license? Did they want to charge you a mileage fee and how much? If you had a 2015 and got a new 2016 you lost your 100k mile power train warranty..... Was that brought up? Did they give you the warranty like you had at no charge?
 
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JasonDenali15

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I paid the sales tax and was later reimbursed by New York State for the full amount. I did not pay a mileage fee. Full buy back in the amount I paid. I never got into a 2016. The warranty question does not apply to my circumstance. Hope that helps.
 

thebishman

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Wow! Well Im having major electrical problems with my 2016 Tahoe. Ive been a die hard Chevy fan from 14 yrs old. Bought my first car, a 1955 Chevy 150 2dr when I was 14, my oldrr brother had to bring it home for me.
I have had a 2007 &2009 Tahoe LTZ both great suv's! This 2016 Tahoe LTZ is crap. More electrical problems than I can mention here an it doesn't have even 140 miles on it. One issue is the front camera issue that when it comes on it disable many safety systems, front collision avoidance, front braking alert, lane departure alert etc...... I have brought it in several times but the dealership says all they can do is clear the codes. They say its a known issue with no resolution yet from Gm. The TSB stating this is from late 2014.! WTH !
Anyway it cant be fixed and I cant get GM to exchange or buy back the vehicle. It kills me to say this but I have had it with GM! I saved so long to buy a NEW Tahoe and I got screwed. $70,000 for crap! And no help from dealership. God do I wish I had my old 2009 Tahoe back, but sold it to by this hot mess. GM screwed up this platform so bad. Seriously its almost making my eyes well up! My wife saw me looking at a pic of my old Tahoe. She started to cry for me. Thats how much of a Chevrolet fan houshold we are. And no one else makes an Suv with decent 8 cylinders.
I feel for you and read every word with sympathy.

So if your Tahoe is a 2016 and you've had it in multiple times for the same complaint, which GM and/or the dealership can't fix, lemon law the truck. Demand a new vehicle or your money back in full.

I would strongly advise hiring an attorney to represent you in this who is very aware of the rules in your state.

Bish
 

endcom

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i purchased a new 2015 yukon xl denali,
the interior liner is making a rattling noise (sounds like a loose wire in roof liner or loose roof liner)
i have taken to dealer twice and called onstar for help;
no help,
the dealer (after driving and hearing the noise) removed the rear entertainment system and saw nothing, except for the greasy finger prints the tech. left on my interior ceiling nothing was repaired.
if i press up on entertainment system the sound abates temporarily.

any advice, help?
 

Mikef

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bump

anyone ever figure out what is causing this issue?

my 2015 LS drives me nuts when I'm under the highway and/or in a tunnel. The noise I hear is similar to what the OP described.

I've attributed it to the V4 mode. I can actively hear the squeak when my motor transitions from V4 to V8 mode and the butterfly valve opens. Been meaning to pin the damn thing open with a hose clamp (seen that fix here in another thread).


I'm fairly certain the rumbling/noise is due to harmonics in the exhaust. I have a 2012 Challenger R/T with Flowmaster exhaust and that damn thing does similar at 1500-1700 rpm due to exhaust drone feedback. You can't really hear it, but it'll resonate with my inner ear and make me sick. Most times I drive in 5th gear instead of 6th to avoid those RPM ranges. Shame you can't do that with the Auto 6 speed in my 2015 Tahoe

Sorry to bump up this old thread. But can someone instruct me where this Exhaust Butterfly valve is located and how to "pin it open". I think mine is chirping. Thank you.
 

acainindy

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Sorry to bump up this old thread. But can someone instruct me where this Exhaust Butterfly valve is located and how to "pin it open". I think mine is chirping. Thank you.

It has nothing to do with the V4 mode or exhaust butterfly. That feeling in your ears is a harmonic that creates pressure in the cabin. Here is what my dealer did to solve mine:

1. Re-attach the roof cross members
2. Replace 20inch tires with Michelin LTX2 tires
3. Roadforce balance and align the vehicle
4. Replace all 4 shocks
5. Replace rear ring and pinion (original had abnormal wear on edges of teeth)

The pressure booming in my ears was reduced after 1-4 but not completely gone.
It all went away after the ring and pinion replacement.....
 

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