GeorgeB’s 2002 Envoy “Belle”

[George B]

Mods: if you wish to merge some of these threads please do.

Thought I would put some of my threads on our Envoy XL here.

We picked this up in 2011 for $4200.00 with 135k on it. It has served us well with only regular maintenance, repairs and tires. Had some flakey transfer case issues that I resolved with a used TCCM from a 2004 and a new shift motor. A new Cat Converter and some coils.

She now has 261k and is in need if struts again so we are fixing it up.

Threads:

2002 Envoy XL Compressor Clutch Replace?

Hey Guys, Anyone ever replace the compressor clutch on an Envoy or TB? Ours gave up cooling when it's hot. The compressor wont engage but if I hose it down with cold water it will engage again and cool. Was going to pick this up...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

2002 GMC Envoy XL HVAC Mode Door Issues

Guys, I have been working to resolve an issue with the mode door on our 2002 GMC Envoy XL. I have replaced the actuator several times with mixed results but always ending up inoperable. I have not used a genuine GM part yet but the next one will be. I believe the part number is 89018539. Each...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

2002 GMC Envoy XL No Power. Restricted exhaust?

2002 GMC Envoy, 4X4, 4.2L I6 262,000 Miles No DTCs and none pending Solid 58 PSI fuel pressure while running. Stays there when exhibiting the problem New set of Delco Iridium plugs clean fuel and air filter Oil has 1,000 miles on it. The wife said her Envoy didn't seem to have the power it used...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[George B]

Couple hundred going into the Envoy. We were originally planning to replace it but Heidi would rather continue to run it a few years and replace the boat. That said I had neglected it and now need to replace some suspension parts. Years ago I put a set of Moog or Monroe ready struts on and scrapped the originals with the springs only to notice later that the front was sitting 2-3" lower than stock. I decided to run it as is until it needed service again. That time has come and I don't trust I can get struts that ride at the right height as ready struts. I can get assembled AC Delco struts at about $200.00 each but don't trust those are going to be right either. I suspect those are rebranded too.

So, I am getting a pair of salvage yard struts with springs and swapping the springs onto new struts. With the spring compressor the whole deal should cost me $235.00 to put together. Then rear shocks and sway bar bushings go on. It might need ball joints and a tie rod too.

I am not excited to work on it...

@George B - Having recently gone thru this on my Envoy, and my Saab.. you are doing right by keeping the stock type springs, but do yourself a favor, and find Bilstein Struts. The ride is night and day different!

I didnt on my Envoy, and it has rode like poo ever since!

I hear ya but I am going with a budget option. What I put on will be worlds better than the blown out stuff she has on this 260K truck. On a truck with more life left in it I would go with better but this one rarely leaves town.

Did you separate the taper at thr bottom of the strut yolk or did you just slip the strut up out of the topnof the yolk. I seem to remember just slipping the strut up out if the yolk and leaving the taper. I don’t remember being able to get that joint apart.

I took the lower strut arm nut off the bottom control arm, and the 2 nuts at the top.

Hammer off the bottom arm from the control arm. The strut will slide out.

Take the bolt/nut off at the split from strut to arm, and hopefully the arm just pulls off. If not, you will have to spread it, and it will eventually pull off.

Reverse process back on. No alignment needed.

I might try that again but I believe I did slip the strut out if that arm without removing the arm from the truck. I don’t think I could get it apart. Going from these sagged struts to full ride hight again will require and alignment. I know when I put these crappy ones on she chewed up the front tires pretty quick.

Maybe because of the lowered springs? But otherwise, its not possible that I was able to do. The strut is at full extension, with no play, when jacked up. No way to slide it up the 2 inches to slide it out of the strut extension arm.

Wonder if you put on Trailblazer SS struts? I seem to remember they are shorter...

Pretty sure this is how I did it.

Either way I will get them swapped. I might just need to be more aggressive with that lower taper joint.

 

[George B]

Pulled apart the used struts to get the springs off. The compressor works ok. Thinking I will need some new upper mounts too. The ones from the junkyard struts are junk and I don’t want to try to save the ones from the struts that are on the truck. I will just assemble them complete and then swap them over on the truck.

 

[George B]

I will post up a few pics of this truck when I have light.

 

[George B]

Now that I am this far down the path of a spring change I notice the Moog 81114 springs on amazon for $90 a pair. I have the used struts all pulled apart and the springs ready to go onto new strut bodies. And, I don’t believe it’s worth a return to the salvage yard even if I reassembled them.

I am usually pretty good at searching for stuff on the web but I missed on this one.

I did note the springs I got have nine coils and the ones currently on the truck have eight.

 

[George B]

I dunno. I know we aren’t planning to keep this truck for too many more years but I sure would hate to put another saggy pair of springs on this thing. Heidi would be upset with my cheap ars. I am considering trying a return of the salvage yard springs and ordering the Moog ones. I went out in my jammies and reassembled the struts. Took me 20 minutes including cleanup. I will call the salvage yard when they open.

Or, maybe I am overthinking this…

 

[George B]

Ready to install. They cleaned up pretty well.

 

[Rocket Man]

Ready to install. They cleaned up pretty well.

View attachment 375201View attachment 375202

Hit em with a little black rust oleum and they’ll look even better!

 

[George B]

Hit em with a little black rust oleum and they’ll look even better!

Black fluid film will do the trick!

 

[Fosscore]

Nice work on those springs.

 

[George B]

Nice work on those springs.

Thanks!
Wire brush and Krud Kutter.

 

[George B]

Success! The struts I took off had one less coil even. New rear shocks and sway bar bushings too. Raised the front almost two inches.

 

[George B]

Replacing the rear sway bar bushings helped but iIt still has a rattle she would like me to try to get rid of. I am not sure where it is coming from. It could us front swat bar bushings but everything is solid on the rear. The other possible source could be the spare tire hoist.

 

[George B]

I guess I get to do a left front axle seal. Just what I wanted to do.

 

[George B]

And this thing is activating the antilock brakes at slow speeds like in the driveway or a parking lot. Gonna have to watch the wheel speed sensors.

 

[TollKeeper]

Considering your location.. The Rusty Cheese Land.. She actually looks pretty good under the skirt. I see rust, but only surface rust. Nothing deep and penetrating.

As for the ABS activating.. This is a known problem across the platform. I had it on my Envoy too. Was a bad ABS sensor on my right front. It can be either side. But for these, you dont just replace the sensor, you replace the whole wheel bearing, which comes with the sensor and wire.

Rattles are usually traced back to stabilizer end links. My Envoy has a rattle too. I have the parts, just been to lazy to bother with it. Edit: Front or rear, they may look in tact, and feel in tact, but have issues internally.

Axle seal? Outer or inner.. If its the outer.. Easy Peasy. If its the inner.. Send it out!

Edit: Reason I say send it out for the inner seal.. Differential should be removed from the truck. There are a couple ways of doing it, but all of them are multi-hour jobs. On my V8, I have to remove the steering rack, oil pan, and a bunch more!

 

[George B]

Considering your location.. The Rusty Cheese Land.. She actually looks pretty good under the skirt. I see rust, but only surface rust. Nothing deep and penetrating.

As for the ABS activating.. This is a known problem across the platform. I had it on my Envoy too. Was a bad ABS sensor on my right front. It can be either side. But for these, you dont just replace the sensor, you replace the whole wheel bearing, which comes with the sensor and wire.

Rattles are usually traced back to stabilizer end links. My Envoy has a rattle too. I have the parts, just been to lazy to bother with it. Edit: Front or rear, they may look in tact, and feel in tact, but have issues internally.

Axle seal? Outer or inner.. If its the outer.. Easy Peasy. If its the inner.. Send it out!

Edit: Reason I say send it out for the inner seal.. Differential should be removed from the truck. There are a couple ways of doing it, but all of them are multi-hour jobs. On my V8, I have to remove the steering rack, oil pan, and a bunch more!

Thanks for the info. Its the outer left one leaking.

 

[TollKeeper]

Thanks for the info. Its the outer left one leaking.

You got lucky.. I have a inner left leaking.. I tried doing it, but gave up. im to old for that much work. I called a shop to get a quote.. Uhm, I am just going to keep topping it off! Quote was 3000. Thats as much as I paid for the truck, including all the repairs! Luckily its easy to top off. Dont have to take anything apart, or even jack it up.

 

[George B]

It is the right front. I know there is little to no play in that bearing. May try just a sensor. IDK

 

[George B]

Ordered a sensor and will give that a try.