Fuse tap

[iboughtatahoe23]

What fuse at the dash near the passenger door can I tap that only comes on with the ignition so far I haven’t had any luck with any of them so my amp to my subs is always on unless it’s unplugged.

 

[LsHart]

Radio or whatever has power after key on.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I would suggest that you look at the auxiliary fuse block at the left end of the dashboard and compare it to its fuse diagram label. I'm fairly certain that there has to be at least one fuse there that is active only when the ignition is on.

 

[mikez71]

Radio or whatever has power after key on.

Radio always has power!

*If* you can't find one, you can use the MBEC next to the parking brake.
(But you will need a plug for the connector https://www.ebay.com/itm/196566241249)

 

[Doubeleive]

What fuse at the dash near the passenger door can I tap that only comes on with the ignition so far I haven’t had any luck with any of them so my amp to my subs is always on unless it’s unplugged.

stock radio or aftermarket?
if it is aftermarket you connect the amp turn-on signal to the blue amp turn on wire which "may" also be marked as power antenna.
otherwise if you adding a amp to the factory radio, you can attach a turn-on wire to the accessory fuse which should only power on when the key is in the accessory or run position.
I believe there is 2 accessory fuses, so it will be one or the other, one usually powers the cigarette ports and is on all the time.
*AMP MAIN POWER SHOULD GO TO BATTERY W/APPROPRIATE IN-LINE FUSE (INSTALLED NEAR BATTERY)

 

[Fless]

Download the GM Upfitter Guide for your year and that should show the available connections in the MBEC, like @mikez71 noted.

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[iboughtatahoe23]

Thanks everyone. Stock radio, 2014 Tahoe LT with Bose. Tried all the fuses in the dash panel by the driver door, most are always hot. Going to pull the head unit and tap the red accessory wire in the harness behind the radio since that’s switched with the key. That seems like the cleanest solution for a stock radio setup.

 

[mikez71]

*IF* you're talking about radio power, it's hot all the time.
(that's why you can take the key out and the radio stays on for 10 minutes if you don't open the door)
And diagrams show it being a red/white wire..

 

[Fless]

Should be able to get switched ignition power at the MBEC under the driver's side dash -- tha't why it's there. See the upfitter's guide for your vehicle.

 

[LsHart]

Radio always has power!

*If* you can't find one, you can use the MBEC next to the parking brake.
(But you will need a plug for the connector https://www.ebay.com/itm/196566241249)

Yes a constant and a key on power

 

[mikez71]

And a retained accessory power too..

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Yes a constant and a key on power

So can we tap the head unit with the remote wire than successfully?

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Hey guys, just wanted to update you on how I’m finishing this up to avoid the battery drain and that fuse tap headache. I'm using the Metra WM-LOCKN and here is the exact plan I’m following:


1. The Signal Source (Fixing the "Bose Choke")


I’m moving my taps from the rear doors to the factory subwoofer wires under the center console. I'm tapping the Dark Blue/White (+) and Light Green/Black (-) wires at the 16-pin connector at the Bose amp. This gives the LOC a much stronger, unfiltered signal to trigger the "Signal Sense".


2. Powering the LOC


I have already run a dedicated 12V power wire and a ground through the firewall directly to the battery. This ensures the active circuitry in the Metra has the constant power it needs to monitor the speaker lines and "wake up" the system.


3. Automatic Remote Trigger (Ditching the Fuse Tap)


Instead of hunting for a switched fuse in the dash, I’m using the LOC as the brain:


• I’m running a short lead from the Solid Blue (Remote Out) wire on the Metra directly to the REM terminal on my Rockville amp.


• The Metra will "sense" the audio signal from the factory sub wires and automatically send 12V through that blue wire to turn the amp on.


• When I turn the truck off and the music stops, the Metra kills the signal and the amp shuts down.


4. Verification & Tuning


I’ll be using the gain adjustment on the Metra to match the signal to the amp and prevent clipping. If the Bose bass roll-off is still too aggressive after this, my next move is to swap the Metra for a unit with bass restoration like the CT Sounds CT-LC2.

Does this look like a solid path forward, or is there anything else I should be watching out for with the Bose amp signal?

 

[LsHart]

So can we tap the head unit with the remote wire than successfully?

No, constant is for memory and the key on power is for power up

 

[LsHart]

Also the radio would have an amp wire. A blue or blue with white strip. That's where u need to put ur amp power on wire. When the radio powers up, the amp will come on as well. That's the proper way.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Also the radio would have an amp wire. A blue or blue with white strip. That's where u need to put ur amp power on wire. When the radio powers up, the amp will come on as well. That's the proper

I moved the tap from the rear door speakers to the factory sub wires at the Bose amp (Dark Blue/White and Light Green/Black).


Power and ground at the amp test good (12.8V). If I jump 12V straight to the REM terminal the green light comes on no problem. But the fuse tap (and the LOC Blue remote wire) aren’t turning the amp on anymore. It was kinda working before I moved the tap, now it’s dead unless I jumper it.

 

[LsHart]

Amps in safe mode??

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Amps in safe mode??

Can’t even get any lights unless I use a jumper from the 12 V terminal to the remote terminal then I get a green light

 

[Fless]

Might want to try to keep this in one thread. Answers are all over the place.