Front Dash Crack

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Rocket Man

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Thanks. I want to be a little proactive ans provide some support there before I get the dreaded cracks. When it does crack I will be doing a skin on it however I have been wondering how to install it in a way it can easily be removed...
The “skins” can’t be easily removed unfortunately. They need to be glued to the original dash in order to have any strength and not vibrate or rattle.
 

the_tool_man

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Apologies if this has been asked. But once a skin is attached, does it obscure any of the attachment hardware? In other words, if you ever have to remove the dash, do you need to plan on purchasing a new skin (or new dash)?
 

avalonandl

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The dash skin does not cover attaching hardware. But once attached it is on pretty good. I had 2 cracks, one infront of driver and one by passenger. Asa consquence it caused a "flap" of the dash in the middle to flap bounce etc... totally distracrting and annoying. I used the entire tube of silicone and a little of a second. Look at my thread....there are pics

I also TAPED DOWN THE CORNERS AND THEN WEIGHTED DOWN DASH SKIN- I PUT A MOVING BLANKET AND USED 10 LB WEIGHTS FROM A BARBELL AND QUART BOTTLES OF WATER OVERNIGHT....
 

Rocket Man

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The dash skin does not cover attaching hardware. But once attached it is on pretty good. I had 2 cracks, one infront of driver and one by passenger. Asa consquence it caused a "flap" of the dash in the middle to flap bounce etc... totally distracrting and annoying. I used the entire tube of silicone and a little of a second. Look at my thread....there are pics

I also TAPED DOWN THE CORNERS AND THEN WEIGHTED DOWN DASH SKIN- I PUT A MOVING BLANKET AND USED 10 LB WEIGHTS FROM A BARBELL AND QUART BOTTLES OF WATER OVERNIGHT....
You can still remove the panel that goes across the front of the dash, by the defroster vents? Because all the ones I’ve seen covers that panel, and you have to remove that to access the 10 mm bolts across the front near the windshield as well as the wires up there that need to be unplugged.
 

Rocket Man

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I'm talking about this piece, which is a separate part on the OEM dash. It unclips, and under it are (5) 10 mm bolts that attach the front edge of the dash to the metal sub frame.

81E-ee-570L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

George B

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While I like the option to cover the dash with something that looks close to factory I really think being able to remove it to service things would be a benefit. If faced with a cracked dash I think I would take my chance. Or.... modify the skin so I could get to the speaker and front panel if needed.
 

HACK BLOCK

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I tried using some hot glue but it only worked for about a month or 2. Im gonna try the popsicle sticks and crazy glue
 

Rocket Man

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I tried using some hot glue but it only worked for about a month or 2. Im gonna try the popsicle sticks and crazy glue

Why not use some sort of epoxy?

I tried fixes better than either of these including welding the plastic together with hot staples melted in to the plastic from behind combined with epoxy and 1/8” steel rods. It broke in a new area a few days later. Not worth it imo, by the time it cracks it’s so brittle that it will just keep doing it. Replace it with the new improved part or cover it up.
 

Doug118

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I tried fixes better than either of these including welding the plastic together with hot staples melted in to the plastic from behind combined with epoxy and 1/8” steel rods. It broke in a new area a few days later. Not worth it imo, by the time it cracks it’s so brittle that it will just keep doing it. Replace it with the new improved part or cover it up.

im glad I read this. I was about to remove my dash tomorrow and epoxy threaded rod across the 3 cracks in my dash
 

Rocket Man

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im glad I read this. I was about to remove my dash tomorrow and epoxy threaded rod across the 3 cracks in my dash
I mean you can try it but I give it a small chance of it lasting any time at all.
 

HACK BLOCK

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I have a carpet cover my dash so the cracks don't bother me it's all the rattling. I tried the glue cause my wife was using it on something and I just said **** it why not. but I did try crazy glue from jb weld and that didn't work.
 

tsltrek

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Here is a pic of my quick and dirty zip tie repair. I just wanted the rattling to stop. I thought about using J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler...but the zip ties are good enough for now.

IMG_0738.jpg
 

1BADI5

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Sometime this summer I'm going to replace the whole dash with a new one from GM.....it's not to bad of a job. Just sucks having to drop like $500 for it tho.

I will reenforce it before I install it and hope I get more then 10 years out of it.
 

Rocket Man

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Sometime this summer I'm going to replace the whole dash with a new one from GM.....it's not to bad of a job. Just sucks having to drop like $500 for it tho.

I will reenforce it before I install it and hope I get more then 10 years out of it.
That’s exactly what I did. I used 1/8” steel rods epoxied in the known trouble areas. Also the new parts have reinforcement added in those areas from the factory, seems they made some slight changes.
 

1BADI5

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That’s exactly what I did. I used 1/8” steel rods epoxied in the known trouble areas. Also the new parts have reinforcement added in those areas from the factory, seems they made some slight changes.

Well that's reassuring
 

avalonandl

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Sometime this summer I'm going to replace the whole dash with a new one from GM.....it's not to bad of a job. Just sucks having to drop like $500 for it tho.

I will reenforce it before I install it and hope I get more then 10 years out of it.

The Dashskin worked for me. Easy Peasy and frankly... you don't notice it...
 

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