Factory Radio won't shut off - RAP issue?

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jared999

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Have a 2009 Tahoe LTZ 5.3L, with factory nav radio.

Problem:
Radio stays on when exiting the vehicle and closing the door. Radio stays on if I alarm or don't alarm vehicle after exit.
I unplug the power to the radio (or unplug battery) so that it does not drain my battery. It has always been this way since I have owned the truck. This isn't something new that has started.

Info:
-I always disarm the vehicle / unlock it using the FOB
-When I disarm the alarm for entry, the interior dome lights come on, the exterior mirror lights come on and the driver door unlocks. If I hit disarm twice all doors unlock.
-The dome lights / mirror lights only stay on temporarily and always shut off if I do nothing
-The dome lights / mirror lights will immediately turn off if I start the vehicle
-If I have the key in the ignition and have turned it to the first or second notch without starting the vehicle and open driver door, I hear a constant chime. However, nothing lights up on dash. I believe there should be something, either a symbol or perhaps info in the DIC?
I say this because on occasion one of my kids won't close the rear door all the way and then I get a notification on the dash that a rear door is open.

What I have tried:
-Exited vehicle and locked manually, with key. This only locks the driver door, the other doors remain open. The dome lights do not turn off immediately when door is locked. They 'time' off and dim slowly. Radio stays on.
-When exiting vehicle and arming alarm, dome lights always shut off quickly and all doors lock.
-When turning off the vehicle, removing the key and exiting, I have tried opening and closing all other non-driver doors to see if this would turn off the radio. The radio does not turn off.
-All door locks unlock and lock as expected when I press the buttons on the FOB, or the lock/unlock buttons on the master switch.
-Have tried a second known good / working oem stereo. Did not resolve issue.

Through some Internet searches I have found something called RAP, Retained Accessory Power. My guess is that there is a component exterior to or internal to the door lock mechanism that will / will not send a signal to the BCM that the door is shut and in turn tell the radio to shut down, and this component is bad.

What do you guys think? Do I need to get a new / working used door lock mechanism / actuator ? or something different?

TIA
 
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Without setting the alarm, and after locking all doors, what do the interior lights do when you manually (with the key) unlock the driver's door and open it?
 

mikez71

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RAP wont cancel from passenger or rear doors. Should cancel as soon as you open driver door. I dont think there is a dic message for driver door. Everything else you describe sounds normal. See if your windows still work after key off, key out and you open driver door. Sounds like the RAP. My first guess would be the door latch as well.
 

mikez71

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EXCEPT you have door chime with key in, door open.. Could also be the control switch, but door latch seems most likely. Looks like the key/door-open/door-ajar all send signal to J2-5, they must send different signals. I wonder if the RAP is cancelled with door open and perhaps the chime activates with door ajar.. Might unplug the door switch and test for continuity between J2-5 to J2-13, and J2-5 to J2-11 (with door open and ajar)

doorlatch.jpg
 
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jared999

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Without setting the alarm, and after locking all doors, what do the interior lights do when you manually (with the key) unlock the driver's door and open it?
Glad you asked because this was my next line of thinking.

-Exited vehicle and locked manually, with key. This only locks the driver door, the other doors remain open. The dome lights do not turn off immediately when door is locked. They only shut off with timer. Radio stays on.
-unlocking the door manually with key and opening the door, the dome lights do not come on. Opening any of the other doors causes dome lights to come no. Radio stays on whole time. Even if I turn 'off' the radio and the display shuts off I can still hear a power draw as the radio fan is constantly on.

-locking the vehicle with the key does not activate the alarm. Not sure if this is normal?
 
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jared999

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EXCEPT you have door chime with key in, door open.. Could also be the control switch, but door latch seems most likely. Looks like the key/door-open/door-ajar all send signal to J2-5, they must send different signals. I wonder if the RAP is cancelled with door open and perhaps the chime activates with door ajar.. Might unplug the door switch and test for continuity between J2-5 to J2-13, and J2-5 to J2-11 (with door open and ajar)

View attachment 399425

Thank you for the reply and diagram. I will get out my fluke meter and in the next couple days get to it
 

Doubeleive

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bad drivers door lock actuator, the sensor is integrated into the actuator.

these vehicles do not have a option to lock or unlock the other doors from the drivers door key tumbler like others do.

if you have the interior lights set to come on when you open the door and they do not when you open the drivers door, most likely = bad actuator

it's not uncommon for just that sensor part to go bad and it controls rap

another symptom of a bad actuator may be a the automatic door lock function not working when you put it in drive or lock function being erratic or door ajar message, etc
 
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jared999

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EXCEPT you have door chime with key in, door open.. Could also be the control switch, but door latch seems most likely. Looks like the key/door-open/door-ajar all send signal to J2-5, they must send different signals. I wonder if the RAP is cancelled with door open and perhaps the chime activates with door ajar.. Might unplug the door switch and test for continuity between J2-5 to J2-13, and J2-5 to J2-11 (with door open and ajar)

View attachment 399425

I swapped in a new actuator assembly - same result. Radio does not turn off. Which control switch are you referring to?
 

Doubeleive

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I swapped in a new actuator assembly - same result. Radio does not turn off. Which control switch are you referring to?
then there is likely a break somewhere between the actuator and bcm, might be a tough one on these trucks gm decided to go with more high speed lan to save on wiring, so a digital signal is sent to the modules which then decipher the signal and send it from there. a tech2 would be extremely helpful
 

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save your box and receipt for that actuator in case you can return later if it the problem is found to be something else
 

mikez71

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Driver door module (window, lock, and mirror switch controls) is where those door open/door ajar switches connect to.. I think. Test those pins (J2-5 to J2-13, and J2-5 to J2-11) to make sure it's not a wiring issue from actuator to door module. (with door module unplugged) Looks like its yellow to gray/black and yellow to tan on the J2 plug. Looks to me like yellow wire supplies ground and the door module senses the connection through the gray/black and tan wires. If the window switches work, then I think the network connection is ok. Keep us posted!

just checked my radio, seems to turn off right away (door ajar?) should be gray/black..
 
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jared999

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I was able to resolve this problem. It wasn't the door lock actuator that was the issue.
I tried a known good working driver side master switch (all buttons work i.e. windows, locks, power folding mirrors) and the radio would not turn off after opening the door.

I tried a 3rd known good working driver side master switch from a 2011 Tahoe and boom, the radio screen shuts off immediately after opening the driver door. The cooling fan inside of the radio stays on for a bit before shutting off (30-60 seconds).

Kind of a hard thing to narrow down because all the layman can do is press all of the buttons on the switch - if they work then you assume its good. Must be something else internal on the first two switches that was bad in regards to RAP.
 
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jared999

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Driver door module (window, lock, and mirror switch controls) is where those door open/door ajar switches connect to.. I think. Test those pins (J2-5 to J2-13, and J2-5 to J2-11) to make sure it's not a wiring issue from actuator to door module. (with door module unplugged) Looks like its yellow to gray/black and yellow to tan on the J2 plug. Looks to me like yellow wire supplies ground and the door module senses the connection through the gray/black and tan wires. If the window switches work, then I think the network connection is ok. Keep us posted!

just checked my radio, seems to turn off right away (door ajar?) should be gray/black..

Thank you for your assistance, I just saw this message. It turned out to be a "bad" driver master switch. All of the buttons work, but something internal that deals with RAP was not working. 3rd switch was a charm.
 

mikez71

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Glad you found the problem and thanks for letting us know!
Hard to troubleshoot when you already tried 2 seemingly good switches! Electronics.. I tell ya..
 
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jared999

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Glad you found the problem and thanks for letting us know!
Hard to troubleshoot when you already tried 2 seemingly good switches! Electronics.. I tell ya..
I agree... electronics. Seemingly good was the problem. What else would make a person think they are bad? If I plug it in and all the buttons work...

Now I'm going to tackle this OC (open circuit) issue on my rearview mirror. Gotta be the temp switch or the wiring.
 
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mikez71

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Seemingly good is the problem. What else would make us think they are bad? If I plug it in and all the buttons work.
Yea, not implying that you should have provided us with more detail somehow. I wouldn't have had the perseverance, or I would have replaced every other part! Good job!

I wonder if a Tech2 would have showed any kind of fault (I'm guessing not. So long as it's communicating with the door module.)
 
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jared999

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Yea, not implying that you should have provided us with more detail somehow. I wouldn't have had the perseverance, or I would have replaced every other part! Good job!

I wonder if a Tech2 would have showed any kind of fault (I'm guessing not. So long as it's communicating with the door module.)
I agree with you. I edited my prior post to more accurately reflect just that.

Tech 2 - I will be getting one soon. First thing I'm doing is unlocking my 'new' used radio.

The Autel model I have doesn't even work with GM, unfortunately. Works great on my other cars, though. You can do all kinds of stuff with it.
 
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Doubeleive

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I'm agree with you. I edited my prior post to more accurately reflect just that.

Tech 2 - I will be getting one soon. First thing I'm doing is unlocking my 'new' used radio.

The Autel model I have doesn't even work with GM, unfortunately. Works great on my other cars, though. You can do all kinds of stuff with it.
the master switch being bad had to be a rarity it's almost always the actuator, the tech2 will come in handy
 
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jared999

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the master switch being bad had to be a rarity it's almost always the actuator, the tech2 will come in handy
Ya I would think so. I wonder if it had something to do with the model year switch used (the 2010 or 2011 is the one that worked) or if that was pure coincidence. Maybe just being newer is what made it work.

Swapping that switch out also fixed my cooled seat issue. That heated and cooled switch on the door panel plugs right into the master switch. For the longest time the AC button for the driver seat would not come on. Now it does and I can once again have cooled nuts, just in time for summer.
 

Doubeleive

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Ya I would think so. I wonder if it had something to do with the model year switch used (the 2010 or 2011 is the one that worked) or if that was pure coincidence. Maybe just being newer is what made it work.

Swapping that switch out also fixed my cooled seat issue. That heated and cooled switch on the door panel plugs right into the master switch. For the longest time the AC button for the driver seat would not come on. Now it does and I can once again have cooled nuts, just in time for summer.
had to be a bad master switch, like I had mentioned before gm started using the lan more on the gmt900's so all the little functions like the seat cooler, mirror blinker, puddle light, key fob etc are all controlled by a chip in the door switch, then a single wire (digital) is used from the bcm to the switch to communicate all those functions therefore reducing wiring.
kind of just like how the cable company can send tv, phone, and internet thru a single wire into your home.
 

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