ARAMP1
Member
Might have missed it but how are you sealing the bolts from the elements?
Escalade Roof Rack and How to
- Thread starter sumo
- Start date
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ARAMP1
Member
I pulled my standard roof rack off today and a couple of the threaded inserts were loose.
One was spinning. This one was the only one lifted up. Might be because I lifted it to get the vise grips under the mount to get the bolt out.
What's the fix for this? I could probably cut them out and rivnut some threaded inserts in.
One was spinning. This one was the only one lifted up. Might be because I lifted it to get the vise grips under the mount to get the bolt out.
What's the fix for this? I could probably cut them out and rivnut some threaded inserts in.
Fosscore
Full Access Member
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I cannot recall the size, but you can use these set screws and some sealant. Lowe's or Amazon should sort you out.
ARAMP1
Member
Ah, I'm getting rid of the standard rack and putting an Denali rack on.
...1 month later...
A few thoughts how I have approached anchor repairs.
We have these type of fasteners loosen occasionally on the LRVs I work on. My first approach is to use an ASTRO setting tool to see if I can 'seat' again after *gently* tapping back into hole. This implies can get fastener out, fit a washer, so surrounding metal is flattened. Have also used washer under nose of setting tool to help flatten / maintain sheet metal.
If groove for sheet metal is damaged, or metal around hole is deformed, might consider using a rivnut / blind nut in its place. Other options I have used successfully are slipping E clips under fastener, hold clip (s) in place while fastener is turned to pull clip tight.
Another much more difficult approach, my opinion, is to form JB Weld around bottom exposed part after wrapping with teflon tape tightly.. Once cured, remove (with difficulty) cut off bottom and top portion, making a nut. Thread back on and secure. I also tried, once, to fill jb weld blob with aluminum, use that to cast a nut. Realized that thread was actually ntt pipe, and ended up making a nut out of stainless hex rod that I drilled (with great difficulty) through and tapped.
So far, I am 90% for several dozen attempts. The ones that I couldn't were resolved with an anullar cutter to make slightly bigger but undistorted new hole, and used larger fastener. piece to be fastened overdrilled accordingly. Anchor and body Material I typically deal with are cast & extruded aluminum, iron, and stainless sheet metal. Sheet metal ranges from 14 to 24ga. The thin stuff is near impossible to work without a die to keep sheet metal from distorting while anchor is set.
A few thoughts how I have approached anchor repairs.
We have these type of fasteners loosen occasionally on the LRVs I work on. My first approach is to use an ASTRO setting tool to see if I can 'seat' again after *gently* tapping back into hole. This implies can get fastener out, fit a washer, so surrounding metal is flattened. Have also used washer under nose of setting tool to help flatten / maintain sheet metal.
If groove for sheet metal is damaged, or metal around hole is deformed, might consider using a rivnut / blind nut in its place. Other options I have used successfully are slipping E clips under fastener, hold clip (s) in place while fastener is turned to pull clip tight.
Another much more difficult approach, my opinion, is to form JB Weld around bottom exposed part after wrapping with teflon tape tightly.. Once cured, remove (with difficulty) cut off bottom and top portion, making a nut. Thread back on and secure. I also tried, once, to fill jb weld blob with aluminum, use that to cast a nut. Realized that thread was actually ntt pipe, and ended up making a nut out of stainless hex rod that I drilled (with great difficulty) through and tapped.
So far, I am 90% for several dozen attempts. The ones that I couldn't were resolved with an anullar cutter to make slightly bigger but undistorted new hole, and used larger fastener. piece to be fastened overdrilled accordingly. Anchor and body Material I typically deal with are cast & extruded aluminum, iron, and stainless sheet metal. Sheet metal ranges from 14 to 24ga. The thin stuff is near impossible to work without a die to keep sheet metal from distorting while anchor is set.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
The rear mounting brackets under the caps have a little locking tab in the very end of track in the chrome side rail where it meets the end cap piece. Remove the rear caps on both sides, slide the cross rail all the way to rear and when it meets the mounting bracket push the little locking tab down and the whole piece that slots the cross rail into the track in the side rail, will slide free. Kinda tricky, gotta finesse each side gently and one at a time to get it it out but it comes out pretty easily that way.
