Engine Oil Cooler Lines - Easiest Method???

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swathdiver

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Which process is most efficient for replacing the engine oil cooler lines? Removing the motor mount or dropping the differential?

Do you drop the front differential all the way or just loosen the bolts and let it hang on them? Do you pull the wheel well moldings to get at the motor mount?

The lines on mine are sweating a little more and should probably do it sooner than later.
 

PG01

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Which process is most efficient for replacing the engine oil cooler lines? Removing the motor mount or dropping the differential?

Do you drop the front differential all the way or just loosen the bolts and let it hang on them? Do you pull the wheel well moldings to get at the motor mount?

The lines on mine are sweating a little more and should probably do it sooner than later.
I think a little bit of everything except maybe the diff, I dont think you need to touch it. Removing the front splsh shield gives you a ton of room to look around and work, believe it or not.
D43262FA-4EED-466C-BD65-E2ED73AC50CA.jpeg
 

Curt Hibbert

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I have to do the transmission lines on mine. I'm going to use a tubing cutter and cut as close as I can to the rubber hose crimps and cut the rubber hose out. I believe I can do this without taking anything other than the splash shield out. I measured the steel tubing on my transmission lines with calipers. It is .375 inches. Going to the Parker hose store here and have them make me an appropriate length of teflon lined braided steel hose with A lock or CPI ends on it -6 size. These fittings crimp on the tubing when tightened. Hopefully be the end of that problem forever.
Those oil cooler tubing lines look like they are the same size as the transmission lines.
 

HiHoeSilver

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I have to do the transmission lines on mine. I'm going to use a tubing cutter and cut as close as I can to the rubber hose crimps and cut the rubber hose out. I believe I can do this without taking anything other than the splash shield out. I measured the steel tubing on my transmission lines with calipers. It is .375 inches. Going to the Parker hose store here and have them make me an appropriate length of teflon lined braided steel hose with A lock or CPI ends on it -6 size. These fittings crimp on the tubing when tightened. Hopefully be the end of that problem forever.
Those oil cooler tubing lines look like they are the same size as the transmission lines.

I like this idea. Make sure you keep us posted with specs on what you end up using and lots of pics. Very interested in how this works for you.
 

Curt Hibbert

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I will keep you posted in a new thread. It will be a job when it gets warmer. Water pump is seeping a little also and I hate working out in the cold!
 

trailblazer

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I bought this on eBay and will be making my own lines to the cooler. Its so much easier to use Parker flexible lines. McMaster-Carr is a good supplier. I did this with my Duramax before for fuel lines and they have some modestly priced hose that is rated up to like 500 degrees.

s-l1600.jpg


fitting.jpg
 

CobraKing

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@Curt Hibbert Do keep us posted. I need to do the same for my truck on both oil and transmission cooler lines. I found the link below and like you I'm wondering if this can be done on the truck without needing to remove the lines.

https://www.silveradosierra.com/eng...-oil-everywhere-low-oil-pressure-t185145.html

I'm running a '14 Tahoe PPV with higher mileage so I understand that there'll be wear and tear based on its prior use but it's also trucks with way less use and mileage experiencing this problem.

Mind boggling how they couldn't use correct crimps the first time around.
 

The_Burban

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Anything ever come of this? I have weeping oil lines at the rad side. Before I get into this job, I'd prefer to visit my local hose supply store and have them rebuild it. Did the same for an old diesel.. I prefer the heavy industry supplier over AutoZone replacements.
 

Geotrash

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Anything ever come of this? I have weeping oil lines at the rad side. Before I get into this job, I'd prefer to visit my local hose supply store and have them rebuild it. Did the same for an old diesel.. I prefer the heavy industry supplier over AutoZone replacements.
I'm just about to do this job myself - the part arrived over the weekend. I took the new OEM route but I think yours is ultimately a better approach if you can afford the downtime between removing the lines and getting them back from the jobber.

Option 1: Take the lines you have off and take them to a jobber to have new reinforced/braided hoses installed to replace the original rubber ones.
Option 2: Buy an OEM line set to replace yours and enjoy another 100K before they start to seep/weep again.
Option 3: Buy an OEM line set and take it to a jobber to have new reinforced/braided hoses installed to replace the original runner ones.

Good luck!
 
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OR VietVet

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I replaced my oil lines and found that the most efficient and easiest way to do it is, have a qualified shop do it. At 68 years old, I don't want to crawl around on the concrete.
 

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