Electrical components life span?

[Marshall 008]

I was wondering as my 2008 Tahoe ages, it has 235k at this time. Is there a time to replace the electrical parts due to age and life span? I know some will say, “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” or “fix it when it breaks.” I prefer not to be stranded on the side of the road if I can help it. So more of the preventative maintenance mindset. I know most seem to replace the items such as suspension, fluids, etc. but I don’t hear much about the electrical components.
I’m going to start replacing the small items such as MAF and check off the boxes from there. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

[OR VietVet]

OR VietVet Is Still Throwing $$$ at 2005 Z71

I have been reminded that I should do all this here so I guess I should start a thread about it. I am not going to be doing anything radical but will get this rig to a baseline maintenance wise and repair ANYTHING that is needed over time and get the body back to primo shape. This is what it...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

I have/had the same mind set. I did not want to be stranded and knew that some components will wear out and when I had the money and knew I was gonna keep the 2005 Tahoe Z71, I replaced components before problems.

At the moment, I have a very intermittent problem. At times, when I have the radio on and shut the engine off and then open door, with key out, the radio will not shut off automatically as the door opens. I suspect the ignition switch but am also aware that it could be the driver's door latch/actuator or maybe even wiring in between, in the umbilical cord in the door hinge area. Last night it did the problem long enough that the door was open, key out and radio still on and I wiggled the umbilical cord with no difference. I had a rubber mallet and tapped pretty hard at the latch area and at the ignition switch area with no change and then all I did was close door, installed key and started engine, shut engine off and removed key and opened door and the radio then went off. I know I have not replaced the latch before and am forgetful about the ignition switch. Thankfully, I have always been able to get the radio to eventually shut off with a couple cycles.

So, replace as you see fit and when the money is plentiful. Especially if you know you want to keep the truck.

 

[intheburbs]

The major stuff that can cripple you if they fail, usually give warnings of imminent failure - alternator, battery, etc.

The smaller stuff, like sensors, you'll drive yourself crazy (and to the poor house) trying to stay ahead on that. Many of them also have no moving parts, so that automatically makes them less prone to failure. They're also less likely to cripple you - a bad O2 sensor will just throw the check engine light, not kill the motor.

I'm focused 90% on the mechanical stuff - primarily keeping fluids fresh. I did preemptively replace my primary fuel pump at 200k miles. Also replaced weeping trans cooler lines and high-pressure power steering lines for the brakes. Recently had the serpentine tensioner fail while traveling out of state, taking out the serpentine. Fortunately it happened where I was able to drive to a mechanic and get it repaired with minimal trip interruption. Might want to replace those tensioner/idler pulleys if they're original. When did you last replace your radiator/heater hoses? Those will cripple you real fast.

My 2008 has 265k miles. I wouldn't hesitate to hitch up my 8,000-lb trailer and head out across the country tomorrow. Did it last year (5,000-mile trip), and will be doing it next year (6,000 miles).

 

[GMCChevy]

Things like sensors can fail any time or last forever. New obes can be defective and fail prematurely. So they still fall under the if ain't broke don't touch it category.

 

[homesick]

I have read that failed solder joints is a new problem area. The increased quantity of electronic stuff has connection issues; especially under the hood, where the harsh environment attacks solder joints.

Also, some claim that the quality, of the solder itself and/or the workmanship of the joint, are of poor quality.

I'd love to see some credible comment on this.

joe

 

[Joseph Garcia]

For pure electrical components (no moving parts), I tend to leave them alone. For electro-mechanical components, I treat them as maintenance items and replace them at a time that I think is appropriate (no real science here, though).

 

[tagexpcom]

I also wonder about the life of the more 'computer like' components - modules and screens. My 2004 SRX (21yrs) is all working except heated drivers side seat and of course the DVD player part of the audio. Not bad I guess for 21yrs.

Next is our 2011 CTS (14yrs) with a bit more electronics than 2004 SRX but all is working 100%.

Hoping my 2021 Yukon makes it 20+ yrs for sure!

------------
My major failures have been mechanical. A major one was the 'AWD control unit' physical box that controls brake fluid? out to the wheels in the 2004 SRX. I believe it was the mechanical unit rather than 'the computer'. This took multiple visits / a couple of thousand $ to get it working correctly at about year 15.

Another was some kind of transmission/transfer case failure around year 12.

More recently at year 20 - radiator/hoses/lines, and a few 'engine things' like vacuum hoses and a boot (spark plug / cylinder related) replacement.

 

[89Suburban]

Relays and 40 amp fuses in the under hood fuse box. This starter relay started to fail due corrosion and any 40 amp fuses I tried to remove basically crumbled into dust trying to remove them.

 

[89Suburban]

Be ready to replace some door lock actuators and the rear glass release button above the license plate as well. Also had issues with the pigtail at the throttle body actuator as well as that actuator itself.

All this was between 290K and 350K miles.

 

[solli5pack]

With the quality of today's new parts I wouldn't replace much unless its broken.

 

[homesick]

With the quality of today's new parts I wouldn't replace much unless its broken.

No, but stocking up on spares wouldn't be bad.

joe

 

[RET423]

I have a neighbor who is a great guy but he can't overcome his belief that new parts have a better lifespan than old parts that have not yet failed; the reality today is the opposite but that goes against everything he was taught his whole life; so he keeps changing parts "while he's in their" doing other maintenance & creating multiple new issues as those new parts are either DOA, work incorrectly or fail in a short time.

Electrical parts are the worst but it's also the case with mechanical devices.

The worst part is that he throws away the good part when he does this so he's on the new parts roulette wheel trying to find a new one that works correctly

I help him figure out these self inflicted injuries but he will not take my advice to avoid them, which is that an original part on a rig with 200k+ miles has more life left in it than a new part made & sold today

 

[Fless]

I have a neighbor who is a great guy but he can't overcome his belief that new parts have a better lifespan than old parts that have not yet failed; the reality today is the opposite but that goes against everything he was taught his whole life; so he keeps changing parts "while he's in their" doing other maintenance & creating multiple new issues as those new parts are either DOA, work incorrectly or fail in a short time.

Electrical parts are the worst but it's also the case with mechanical devices.

The worst part is that he throws away the good part when he does this so he's on the new parts roulette wheel trying to find a new one that works correctly

I help him figure out these self inflicted injuries but he will not take my advice to avoid them, which is that an original part on a rig with 200k+ miles has more life left in it than a new part made & sold today

This reminds me of watching Ivan on Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics -- after someone else shot the parts cannon at something he's trying to fix, he's always looking for the original parts that were replaced unnecessarily. When the customer provides them, he re-installs them.