Electric Water Pump

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Monz11

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Has anyone switched to an electric water pump? Ben researching the Frostbite Mr Gasket kits. seesm will add more HP, but also keep engine cooler when idling, stuck in traffic, etc. I have to replacemy water pump anyway as well as pulleys, so this may be the best time to do it
Thoughts?

Monica
 

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I would imagine it will free up a couple pony's but there is no way it is going to make your engine run cooler unless you change the thermostat, the water pump does not control the temperature (unless it is broken), the thermostat, fans and radiator do that work
all a water pump does is pump water-period
@randeez
 
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Years ago only race cars would usually run them and they weren't made to run all the time on a daily driven, or street driven vehicle.

They free up some HP, but it still puts a load on the alternator and charging system, which in turn, uses HP
 

randeez

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Has anyone switched to an electric water pump? Ben researching the Frostbite Mr Gasket kits. seesm will add more HP, but also keep engine cooler when idling, stuck in traffic, etc. I have to replacemy water pump anyway as well as pulleys, so this may be the best time to do it
Thoughts?

Monica


you need to just build a racetruck :beer:

i probably wouldnt recommend an electric water pump. never really had an issue with the cooling capacity...just other things, there are some that are packaged to fit in direct placement of the oem and i think even have an idle pulley in place to keep the same belt. longevity/reliability has been pretty well proven at this point for them

the "problem" with an electric water pump is control. with the mechanical the t-stat restricts flow until warmed up, you can do the same thing with a ewp but they dont really like being deadheaded so a bypass it preferred. you need to move water even cold, full speed on the ewp will take longer to heat up and just leaving it off till up to temp isnt a good idea as itll get real hot in the heads before the thermostat and temp switch see it.

OR

OEMs that use EWP (BMW peirburg cwa400 is a common one but draws like 36 amps full bore) use a pwm control for the pump, as well as an electronically controlled t-stat. the pwm needs some sort of a controller and of course a pump that doesnt mind being controlled that way. popular aftermarket one is a davies craigs ewp150, comes with a nice pwm controller, 150lph (about 40gpm). just depends on what you need and what you can live with.

I am using a meziere 55gpm electric pump, doesnt like pwm, data says less than 15amps draw. short term i will probably just hook it hot on acc power, use a momentary switch to turn it off which will need to be held off (so i cant forget to turn it back on). I am also in south florida and not so worried about taking long to get up to temp either way - I am the only one who drives it and dont really daily it either so a little but of inconvenience is ok for me

as for hp gains... you're looking at a grand all said and done for maybe 5-10 net horse power, theres a lot of other things you can do cheaper and gain more
 

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There isn't an electric water pump (for street use) that would keep these big
beasts cool. The electric ones are for race.. or between rounds.. Not designed
to be ON all the time - long periods of use. And their volume isn't enough either
Your belt driven pump uses very little HP
 

1BADI5

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Yeah theres about 50 other mods I would do before considering this.

Say an underdrive pulley. 25% underdrive is good for about 10rwhp and you can install it in less then 60 minutes
 
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Monz11

Monz11

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So, now that I have rebuilt truck, I'm thinking of a high flow water pump. Has anyone switched to the edelbrock?
 

B-train

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I'm curious why you feel the need for a high flow pump or an electric pump. Do you do a lot or racing with the truck? Is it used as a daily driver up long mountain grades in extreme heat?

Your OEM setup was designed to work in all temp zones and keep the vehicle within a safe range. And it was designed to flow a certain amount through the motor. I don't see what will be gained with a high flow pump either. It MAY move more fluid, but again, the thermostat is going to act as the road block anyways and regulate flow to keep the engine at the desired temp.

I'd say save your money and put a good OEM style pump on and call it a day.

IF, this is needed to justify a sticker on the rear window and a fan club to support, then by all means get all the high perf whaterver's needed to support that. LOL
:peace:
 
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j91z28d1

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I say do it go you want to. this is a hobby, not everything has to make financial sense.


plus I'd argue there's not easier ways to make 10hp. if you open exhaust, you gotta listen to that nonsense. if you open intake you gotta deal with high flow intakes being mostly a gimmick and not filtering as good. cams need tunes and all that comes with it.

I would suggest wiring in an adjustable over temp light just so you catch anything before it becames an issue.
 

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I'm curious why you feel the need for a high flow pump or an electric pump. Do you do a lot or racing with the truck? Is it used as a daily driver up long mountain grades in extreme heat?

Your OEM setup was designed to work in all temp zones and keep the vehicle within a safe range. And it was designed to flow a certain amount through the motor. I don't see what will be gained with a high flow pump either. It MAY move more fluid, but again, the thermostat is going to act as the road block anyways and regulate flow to keep the engine at the desired temp.

I'd say save your money and put a good OEM style pump on and call it a day.

IF, this is needed to justify a sticker on the rear window and a fan club to support, then by all means get all the high perf whaterver's needed to support that. LOL
:peace:
it's a built truck, I can make mine heat up completely stock, which is part of the reason why I haven't upgraded to a whipple I can pretty much put money on i will overheat it just driving (my style of driving)...... I would probably need a electric pump as well, any extra hp is a bonus.
for instance my BB tune turns off my ac pump with wot for the extra hp gain, anything the motor doesn't have to physically spin is more power to the wheels
 

j91z28d1

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upgrade to the new more efficient 220amp alt before adding much load. probably save some power plus handle about any load thrown at it

is there a aftermarket electric pump that can handle pwm? I believe lingenfelter makes a nice one for fan control, that and a ssd relay would make for a nice speed adjusting based on coolent temp pump.
 
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it's a built truck, I can make mine heat up completely stock, which is part of the reason why I haven't upgraded to a whipple I can pretty much put money on i will overheat it just driving (my style of driving)...... I would probably need a electric pump as well, any extra hp is a bonus.
for instance my BB tune turns off my ac pump with wot for the extra hp gain, anything the motor doesn't have to physically spin is more power to the wheels
Doesn't the OE tune do that also, disengage the AC compressor under WOT?

Shit, the OE tune on my 30 year old mustang did it, lol
 

BG1988

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Years ago only race cars would usually run them and they weren't made to run all the time on a daily driven, or street driven vehicle.

They free up some HP, but it still puts a load on the alternator and charging system, which in turn, uses HP
tahoe hybrids are utilizing electric water pumps full time as well
 

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Doesn't the OE tune do that also, disengage the AC compressor under WOT?

Shit, the OE tune on my 30 year old mustang did it, lol
I don't think so but I could be wrong, never noticed getting hit with warm air before the tune
maybe it does and maybe they just adjust it more :shrug:
 

Foggy

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To answer the question on the PCM turning off AC compressor, YES IT DOES...
I'd have to look at the exact stock setting, but it turns it off at about 95% throttle,
then re-engages it at about 90%
I set mine to disengage at 90% and re-engage at 85%...
Figured if I hit a big ass hill towing it would help,... I can be hot for a few minutes...
Or if a dipweed kid wants some head to head speed, I could use the extra HP that
the compressor eats !!
As I said way back, I don't know of a stand alone electric water pump that would
keep these heavy beasts cool .... except in a short run/race track kind of situation...
 

Marky Dissod

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Doesn't the OE tune also disengage the AC compressor under WOT?
Shit, the OE tune on my 30 year old mustang did it, lol
I don't think so but I could be wrong, never noticed getting hit with warm air before the tune
maybe it does and maybe they just adjust it more :shrug:
To answer the question on the PCM turning off AC compressor, YES IT DOES ...
I'd have to look at the exact stock setting, but it turns it off at about 95% throttle, then re-engages it at about 90%
I set mine to disengage at 90% and re-engage at 85% ...
Figured if I hit a big ass hill towing it would help ... I can be hot for a few minutes ...
Or if a dipweed kid wants some head to head speed, I could use the extra HP that the compressor eats !!
Some pcms / ecms also have an AC disengage RpM, if the engine reaches or exceeds (let's say) 3875RpM, regardless of TPS%, AC compressor disengages.
These settings are as much to protect the AC compressor, as for releasing horsepower.
 

Foggy

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Some pcms / ecms also have an AC disengage RpM, if the engine reaches or exceeds (let's say) 3875RpM, regardless of TPS%, AC compressor disengages.
These settings are as much to protect the AC compressor, as for releasing horsepower.
Yes you are correct on that... They don't want to spin the compressors "so" fast... I can't remember
if my HP Tuners has an RPM choice for cutoff... I just remember changing the TPS/Load %. I suppose it all depends on the exact year/model/ etc
 

iamdub

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I don't think so but I could be wrong, never noticed getting hit with warm air before the tune
maybe it does and maybe they just adjust it more :shrug:

Compressor clutch is RPM and TPS% limited. I've noticed this on pretty much any make of car I've ever owned.

I'm sure BB lowered the thresholds for your tune. In a car with a factory tune, with the blower on high, stand at WOT for 30+ seconds and you'll feel it get warmer. :p

 
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mikez71

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... I suppose it all depends on the exact year/model/ etc
Here are my stock settings for a 2012 Z71 (4WD, 3.08)
ac.png


Think I will tweak it some.. maybe over 4k RPM's and 80% throttle? idk...
 

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