DOD Delete Cost

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blondie70

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Wanted to swing this by you gents....DOD Plus and paying a shop.
Got a parts list on Summit...TruckNorris cam plus everything to install it. Also a rear engine seal and a good billet cover torque converter.
All these parts come to right at $2000

Talked to a shop (only one) and cost to to the DOD and install the torque converter is $4000 (this includes all fluids)

I am old and have a bad neck, so I ain't doing it.

How do these numbers look to y'all ?
Thanks, Pete
 

homesick

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Can you not just turn it off? IIRC, that's what my mechanic did on my '07 Escalade, 6.2.

joe
 

j91z28d1

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Can you not just turn it off? IIRC, that's what my mechanic did on my '07 Escalade, 6.2.

joe


sadly just a temp fix. they all fail someday, somehow even the non dod/afm lifters.

cost, I have no idea but sounds expensive. like replacement engine expensive,(if you can trust the replacement these days) if it's a 6.2 valve seat dropper. hate to do all that work and have it lunch the engine because of a seat.
 

homesick

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sadly just a temp fix. they all fail someday, somehow even the non dod/afm lifters.

cost, I have no idea but sounds expensive. like replacement engine expensive,(if you can trust the replacement these days) if it's a 6.2 valve seat dropper. hate to do all that work and have it lunch the engine because of a seat.

IIRC, again, he didn't guarantee no problems, but said turning it off would greatly help my odds. And he did it for free, I think; or damn near.

FWIW, as far as lifters, in general, go- an episode of 'Engine Masters' said that well-built, reliable, lifters were becoming near impossible to find.

joe
 

strutaeng

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Wanted to swing this by you gents....DOD Plus and paying a shop.
Got a parts list on Summit...TruckNorris cam plus everything to install it. Also a rear engine seal and a good billet cover torque converter.
All these parts come to right at $2000

Talked to a shop (only one) and cost to to the DOD and install the torque converter is $4000 (this includes all fluids)

I am old and have a bad neck, so I ain't doing it.

How do these numbers look to y'all ?
Thanks, Pete
I think that sounds reasonable. They'll essentially have to remove the top end of of the engine, transmission and bottom oil pan to replace the rear main seal.

I think it's wise you are doing everything at the same time. You definitely don't want to do the RMS, then have a converter fail or vice versa.

Does your truck also require a tune to disable the AFM? I think you also have to allow for that. Actually, I just realized the fact that you are going with an aftermarket camshaft with different specs will require a tune, in itself I'm pretty sure.
 

Geotrash

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Wanted to swing this by you gents....DOD Plus and paying a shop.
Got a parts list on Summit...TruckNorris cam plus everything to install it. Also a rear engine seal and a good billet cover torque converter.
All these parts come to right at $2000

Talked to a shop (only one) and cost to to the DOD and install the torque converter is $4000 (this includes all fluids)

I am old and have a bad neck, so I ain't doing it.

How do these numbers look to y'all ?
Thanks, Pete
That's a fair deal if it includes the TC replacement, too.
 

j91z28d1

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IIRC, again, he didn't guarantee no problems, but said turning it off would greatly help my odds. And he did it for free, I think; or damn near.

FWIW, as far as lifters, in general, go- an episode of 'Engine Masters' said that well-built, reliable, lifters were becoming near impossible to find.

joe


you're right, I definitely have mine turned off, oil blocked and vented in the whole afm system and just fingers crossed I don't do many long trip with it and just fingers crossed it doesn't fail on the road somewhere.


I was just watching an interview with a European race team that runs v8s and they said they have had to bring all engine work in house as nothing from American builders and suppliers are any good anymore. I have noticed watching that even the bigger name shops engines are failing a few times a season when they used to go the whole season with a just a off season inspection. the Japanese engine cars are not having this problem as long as they source parts directly from Japan. sadly Japan hasn't decided to made high end ls parts yet. they have offered to buy some shuttered metal forging building here to help with our rail road supply since shipping across the ocean isn't worth it. it's been blocked in multiple ways thou so far.


the quality of engine parts has completely collapsed here. I'm starting to feel like getting parts from junk yards, clean and inspecting them well might end up being a good choice.
 

homesick

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There's good money to be made doing nothing, for sure. The '07 Escalade 6.2 did not have AFM.

I knew my memory was off somehow on this. The AFM and VVT were the two things I remembered, and I was thinking the VVT was what I didn't have. If there's a third possible whizbang 'feature', I don't remember it.

He did go in and disable something. Maybe you could set me straight here.

joe
 

petethepug

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Hey Pete, don’t you have a good diesel Indi shop around that’ll do it? There’s gotta be a place where all the road contractors take all their HD trucks, Jackhammer compressors and HD diesel generators.

Removing DOD on a gas motor to them is a treat because it’s all lightweight stuff and low torque compared to the oil burners. The diesel techs don’t F around because if you blow a diesel job, it’s BIG $.
 

Ilikemtb999

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$2k labor feels expensive but it’s not a small feat. Does the $2k in labor include tuning? If so then I think it’s worth it for sure.


What converter did you pick out?
 

j91z28d1

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I knew my memory was off somehow on this. The AFM and VVT were the two things I remembered, and I was thinking the VVT was what I didn't have. If there's a third possible whizbang 'feature', I don't remember it.

He did go in and disable something. Maybe you could set me straight here.

joe


in general vvt is very reliable. not really worth tuning off of your still running a stock cam.

with a aftermarket cam it can be a hassle, but it's a free 15 or so ft lb of tq from what I've read.
 

homesick

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in general vvt is very reliable. not really worth tuning off of your still running a stock cam.

with a aftermarket cam it can be a hassle, but it's a free 15 or so ft lb of tq from what I've read.

Thanks.

After this thread, I did a little reading, and came to the same conclusions.

My street racing days are over. That L92 is fast enough. It'll scoot when it needs to.

joe
 

j91z28d1

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Thanks.

After this thread, I did a little reading, and came to the same conclusions.

My street racing days are over. That L92 is fast enough. It'll scoot when it needs to.

joe

funny you say that. I flashed a new timing map today another guy wanted me to try and let him know if I see an knock and what I thought. I quickly realized I never drive this truck hard enough to get into that part of the map to even tell lol.


I just let it loft down the road. today might be the first time my truck has seen 5500 since I got it. haha. it showed 5 deg of retard and I lifted.
 

Charlie207

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Picked VEGE reman BU60FHD. I hear they have the billet cover, etc...what do you think ? Have not pulled trigger on these parts yet !

I just installed the same converter in my Yukon, but waiting on a cam adapter to be able to fire it up and (hopefully) drive it. I'm curious if there's any difference to the JMBX with 179k on it. There is a billet rear cover on it.

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