Denali subwoofer and amp install 2022

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RST_FRED22

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How much space is there under the 2nd row captains? Might just throw a powered sub under there while JL works on their stealth box.

I don’t take delivery for another 4 weeks or so so I can’t just go look.
Dude you ever go with the JL powered subs under the rear captains? If so how did it turn out!
 

mikew2069

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Dude you ever go with the JL powered subs under the rear captains? If so how did it turn out!
There isn't enough space. I did buy a powered kicker 10" hideaway sub but haven't installed it yet. Plan is to just put it in the back and install it so that its a quick connect to remove it if I ever need the cargo area.

I'm not audio/electrical inclined so I need someone to post a detailed how-to on accessing the Bose amp. Until then, I've been working on wheels, chrome blackout, etc.
 

PoplarJay

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Just curious as to if you made any progress on your install, have you looked into LJS customs loop back harness for your remote wire and signal wires, anyone have diagram on replacing all the oem speakers
 

Doubeleive

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when you add the sub you may have to unplug the anc mic's otherwise it will probably cause some feedback problems
 
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JohnnyFamous

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Morning all, late posting this, but I completed this upgrade a few months back; all I can say is wow! The system came to life, and it is a night and day difference. I settled on an audio control amp ACM 1300 AMP and used the high-level input from the factory sub, and installed a JL bass wedge The local shops told me it might not have enough signal from the factory high level to work, but I reached out to audio control, and they were confident in their product. I was contemplating a JL amp with more power, but when I spoke to them, they weren't as confident and the audio control has a built-in Accubass. There is bass roll-off on the factory unit, so the louder you turn up the volume the lower the bass gets. If you planning this with a different amp with more power or more subs, I would suggest you use the audio control LC2i to increase the line output but, more importantly, give you acubass. LC2i

I was surprised by how little information there was and how the local shops were not willing to touch it.

I got a deal on the 10 Jl wedge, which I don't believe they make anymore, JL knows their stuff and I highly recommend going with a pre-made JL product. The hardest part was running the 8 gauge power line through the firewall; take caution there but not impossible. There is more than enough bass here to hit hard or play clean; up to you! If you are looking for sound quality, this integrates very well and can be adjusted to pound hard and shake. You could go with more power and a single or twin 12 if you were a bass *****, but the sound quality is matched with this 10 in the cab, don't let the low power amp fool you; these are full RMS and professional quality - any more is just for the people looking at you across the street, it depends on how much you want to show off if I was 20 I might go with 12s and 1000 watts.

As far as the rest of the bose system, and I hate to say it as I am not a BOSE fan, it sounds amazing. There are NO other upgrades required, nor should they be considered IMHO. I don't think you could improve on this system unless you spent 10-15k on ultra high-end separates.

IMG_3377.jpeg
IMG_3376.jpeg
IMG_3375.jpeg
IMG_3492.jpeg
 

Fast_AT4

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Morning all, late posting this, but I completed this upgrade a few months back; all I can say is wow! The system came to life, and it is a night and day difference. I settled on an audio control amp ACM 1300 AMP and used the high-level input from the factory sub, and installed a JL bass wedge The local shops told me it might not have enough signal from the factory high level to work, but I reached out to audio control, and they were confident in their product. I was contemplating a JL amp with more power, but when I spoke to them, they weren't as confident and the audio control has a built-in Accubass. There is bass roll-off on the factory unit, so the louder you turn up the volume the lower the bass gets. If you planning this with a different amp with more power or more subs, I would suggest you use the audio control LC2i to increase the line output but, more importantly, give you acubass. LC2i

I was surprised by how little information there was and how the local shops were not willing to touch it.

I got a deal on the 10 Jl wedge, which I don't believe they make anymore, JL knows their stuff and I highly recommend going with a pre-made JL product. The hardest part was running the 8 gauge power line through the firewall; take caution there but not impossible. There is more than enough bass here to hit hard or play clean; up to you! If you are looking for sound quality, this integrates very well and can be adjusted to pound hard and shake. You could go with more power and a single or twin 12 if you were a bass *****, but the sound quality is matched with this 10 in the cab, don't let the low power amp fool you; these are full RMS and professional quality - any more is just for the people looking at you across the street, it depends on how much you want to show off if I was 20 I might go with 12s and 1000 watts.

As far as the rest of the bose system, and I hate to say it as I am not a BOSE fan, it sounds amazing. There are NO other upgrades required, nor should they be considered IMHO. I don't think you could improve on this system unless you spent 10-15k on ultra high-end separates.

View attachment 377140View attachment 377141View attachment 377139View attachment 377143

Much thanks.

Where is your remote wire?
 
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JohnnyFamous

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Much thanks.

Where is your remote wire?
I did not use one. I contemplated it but was trying for a simplistic install with as few wires as possible. I did try and locate a remote turn-on in the fuse panel, but the panel is 100 percent power all the time, or at least I couldn't find an ignition/stereo timed turn on in it.

The ACM amp has a GTO signal sense built-in and detects if there is a signal to the amp and will turn on. I was a bit skeptical but have confirmed the amp shuts down when the truck is off and works perfectly. It appears to be a really well-built AMP.
 

Tyrell

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Great install and I really appreciate the research you've done and results you've shared. I'm adding this to my wish list for my 22 Denali. I've never installed an amp/sub before so I've got some more learning to do before I tackle this.
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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Did you add this sub in parallel w/ the stock one (if we even call that a sub), or did you disable the stock sub? Can't tell from your pic if you cut the input to the stock or not.
 
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JohnnyFamous

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Did you add this sub in parallel w/ the stock one (if we even call that a sub), or did you disable the stock sub? Can't tell from your pic if you cut the input to the stock or not.
It is not used. I cut the supply to the sub to grab the high-level input. I would not leave it connected.
 

JerseySUP

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Can you post more detail about where/how you tapped into the high-level input? Thanks!
 
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JohnnyFamous

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Can you post more detail about where/how you tapped into the high-level input? Thanks!
You can see the sub in the photo; where I cut and spliced, the green line goes to the new amp. Yes, it is an old Christmas extension/lamp chord I had laying around, I have read a lot on fancy speaker wire, and it really only comes down to resistance, contrary to the hype.

I will say I was unable to confirm polarity, took a chance and assumed the black grey was negative. It appears to be firing correctly; I am not sure if the amp would rectify the polarity or if it matters with a high-level input. I played around with changing polarity at the new sub and couldn't see a difference nor tell if the sub was pushing or pulling.
4E9808C8-245B-46C1-8554-E8F619EE10F1.jpeg
 

dernals

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I assume you ran power from the battery all the way back? How easy was it to find a good channel to run your power. Is there a good ground location under the fascia piece in the compartment you put your amp in?

Thanks for the details!
 

elkdaddy70

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Much thanks.

Where is your remote wire?
The Audio Control piece senses input on the high level input… to turn itself on… Audio Control is good stuff / high end brands have all kinds of cool features.
 

ATrainTX

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You can see the sub in the photo; where I cut and spliced, the green line goes to the new amp. Yes, it is an old Christmas extension/lamp chord I had laying around, I have read a lot on fancy speaker wire, and it really only comes down to resistance, contrary to the hype.

I will say I was unable to confirm polarity, took a chance and assumed the black grey was negative. It appears to be firing correctly; I am not sure if the amp would rectify the polarity or if it matters with a high-level input. I played around with changing polarity at the new sub and couldn't see a difference nor tell if the sub was pushing or pulling.View attachment 378449

I assume you ran power from the battery all the way back? How easy was it to find a good channel to run your power. Is there a good ground location under the fascia piece in the compartment you put your amp in?

Thanks for the details!


Now that the JL stealthbox is available on the 21+ I wanted to ask you if you ended up DIYing this project or if you found a shop to do the install for you? I think your amp location is clean and out of the way but curious how difficult it was to route all the wires from the battery back. Only thing I feel like my bose system is missing is the low-end bass. That new stealth box is a 400w JL 10TW3 so I think your ACM amp will give me the sound that I want without me having to give up all sorts of other space to put an amp in to drive that JL stealthbox.
 

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