coil over conversion installed

[04blackout]

So just for discussion, what other reasonable priced adjustable coil overs are there? prob cross post this is question on the other two threads.

Billy

ridetech makes a good adjustable coilover shock, and they were pretty close in price, IIRC

UPDATE
i took yet one more click out of both the front and rear tonight when i got home... ill probably ride like this through the wknd and see how she does

 

[Tahoewhat]

there are quite a few other coil overs. I went with what had been discussed and used.

Craig - you think the same way i did. Keep it firm and dont go down. Well finally i decided to, as you, start going down on the clicks and see how it rides. Mine as well has become quite the difference now and the ride comfort is better w/ the softer settings. We just have to keep messing with it till we get it to our liking.

Keep at it man. Couldnt tell you mine either, but pretty low on the clicks.

 

[digitalfiend]

This may meed to be my next move. I think the firmness is tolerable, but the sway is not. I really didnt think new bars would be a big difference, but maybe they will... did that rear sway bar come with bushings?

Yes. It comes with bushings. The sway bar also has three mounting spots which makes it "adjustable"...this is a nice touch on Hellwig's part.

 

[04blackout]

So did you use the hellwig adjustable end links or you got tony's special links?

 

[digitalfiend]

So did you use the hellwig adjustable end links or you got tony's special links?

I wanted to use the hellwig adjustable end links, but they won't fit if you're too low - I'm too low. I have to use the DJM end links...I think they're the same ones that Tony sells.

 

[04blackout]

Well, they just asked us to work tomorrow so looks like the bushings are gonna have to wait a little longer. Really hoping for sunday

 

[Bomba02]

Just wondering if you got a chance to install the prototypes yet, If so thoughts?
Thanks Billy

 

[04blackout]

Just wondering if you got a chance to install the prototypes yet, If so thoughts?
Thanks Billy

Unfortunately, no. Got woke up yesterday at 4am to a call that my wife's 96yr old grandpa had a heart attack and was in intensive care. Spent the whole day in the hospital between my mom and him. Had a couple hrs while my daughter took a nap but our car needed plugs and coils bad, been having alot of misfires lately, so that's the only thing that really got done yesterday. Our grass is about 9' tall but its so far down the list I might actually pay someone to cut it for the first time in my life

ATM, I can't buy an hour of free time... what really sucks is they got here on a monday and the whole wknd before that I had nothing going on at all. Good news is this high line job is over half way done after the first week, so with any luck, we'll finish up this week and things will open up

 

[04blackout]

Got the prototype bushings installed... now I am totally maxed out on threads for as high as I can go, and my ride height actually might be a bit lower than it was. I think these will be a good solution for those looking to go lower

Took a couple pics of my shock towers and they are in just as good of shape now (2k miles) as they were when I installed everything. Pics later

 

[Tahoewhat]

Thats what i have come to realize. (tweaked mine this weekend) Installing the stud top will lower the vehicles more. You just have to watch out for shock travel. If you read my thread, I found out my shock was bottoming out before it hit anything.

Looking forward to the pictures.

 

[04blackout]

These pics show the shock tower and how it is still in great shape after 1900 miles with no reinforcement. Also shows how much threads I have run the adjuster nuts up, which was basically as much as I could possibly turn. Idk if its actually maxed out, but my measly 240lb ass couldn't get another 1/4 turn

 

[04blackout]

This pic shows how the front now sits lower than the rear... this was taken at menards on a completely level parking lot, and it is as high in the front as I could possibly go

The problem with this, is it preloads the coil so much that now its really bouncy up front. It would be perfect though, if I had smaller tires and really wanted to be slammed down... still not sure if I want to be lifted or not, but I do like the look of the tire tucked up in there. Problem with that is that in the rear the frame really needs to be notched bc it bottoms out like all the damn time

 

[livingez_123]

You need a stiffer coil, I would go up in spring rate.

 

[Tahoewhat]

The problem with this, is it preloads the coil so much that now its really bouncy up front. It would be perfect though, if I had smaller tires and really wanted to be slammed down... still not sure if I want to be lifted or not, but I do like the look of the tire tucked up in there. Problem with that is that in the rear the frame really needs to be notched bc it bottoms out like all the damn time

Exactly what i found out this weekend when messing with mine. Was going to do the same thing, change to stud top, but time didnt allow. Only talking about it w/ someone and exactly what you said is what we came up with. Its going to preload it too much and be real stiff. Play with the shock settings and see how that improves the ride.

100 % agree, the rear needs c-notched, mine sure does need it.

 

[Atomic]

Bouncy is not the same as too much preload. Bouncy means you need a stiffer spring (with less preload) and more dampening (higher shock setting). You also need to be careful of coil bind with a lot of preload.

You guys really need to be careful about where the shock is in its travel. It should sit, at ride height, no more than 10% above or below the mid point of travel. Running the spring all the way down or all the way up is not the answer, a stiffer or lighter spring is.

Of course the stud top will lower it more, wasnt that the point of wanting to do the stud top? Its about 1.5" automatically. If the height you end up with it is too low with the shock at the right ride height, you need longer shocks.

 

[Bomba02]

liking this, looks good man, that bushing doesnt look to be smashed out either as of yet but hopefully it stays like that.

Couldnt you go with a longer shock now which would change lift/lower and perload?

Also wouldnt change shock settings now help with the bouncy because its a different perload the setting ill work and feel different?
Billy

 

[04blackout]

Bouncy is not the same as too much preload. Bouncy means you need a stiffer spring (with less preload) and more dampening (higher shock setting). You also need to be careful of coil bind with a lot of preload.

You guys really need to be careful about where the shock is in its travel. It should sit, at ride height, no more than 10% above or below the mid point of travel. Running the spring all the way down or all the way up is not the answer, a stiffer or lighter spring is.

Of course the stud top will lower it more, wasnt that the point of wanting to do the stud top? Its about 1.5" automatically. If the height you end up with it is too low with the shock at the right ride height, you need longer shocks.

i understand fully what you're saying here, and i will be going back to the pro comp mount probably next wknd, but i wanted to test this out as an alternative for those that wanna be really low, or use a different length shock/coil. with the pro comp adapter, i was pretty much right in the middle of the adjustment threads, and the shock was close to the middle of its travel... obviously, this is where it needs to be for my application, and i proved this today by installing the bushing upper mount. great thing is, it takes about an hour and i can go back to the pro comp and have everything kosher once again

the main focus for this was "will it work?" and the answer (as of right now) is yes... basically my fender height was around 33 1/4 before, so at the same adjustment, i would be sitting somewhere in the ballpark of 31 3/4 on 305/35/24 tires, so thats pretty awesome for guys looking to get real low on coilovers

 

[Tahoewhat]

Bouncy is not the same as too much preload. Bouncy means you need a stiffer spring (with less preload) and more dampening (higher shock setting). You also need to be careful of coil bind with a lot of preload.

You guys really need to be careful about where the shock is in its travel. It should sit, at ride height, no more than 10% above or below the mid point of travel. Running the spring all the way down or all the way up is not the answer, a stiffer or lighter spring is.

Of course the stud top will lower it more, wasnt that the point of wanting to do the stud top? Its about 1.5" automatically. If the height you end up with it is too low with the shock at the right ride height, you need longer shocks.

A stiffer or lighter spring? Wouldnt a lighter spring make it too soft?
Also, since he is at the midpoint of shock travel and its bouncy, couldnt he change the shock settings to correct it, since if i understand right, it now has more preload on the spring, but the shock is where it should be.

And yep stud mount was our main topic to get lower. I am still going to try it out. I think it will get me the height i want and be in the correct spot on the shock. right now its a tad lower than half.

i understand fully what you're saying here, and i will be going back to the pro comp mount probably next wknd, but i wanted to test this out as an alternative for those that wanna be really low, or use a different length shock/coil. with the pro comp adapter, i was pretty much right in the middle of the adjustment threads, and the shock was close to the middle of its travel... obviously, this is where it needs to be for my application, and i proved this today by installing the bushing upper mount. great thing is, it takes about an hour and i can go back to the pro comp and have everything kosher once again

Why are you going back to the pro-comp? b/c of the bouncy ride?

Wish i had a nice jack that would lift my tahoe & id try it out on my own time.

All this lowering stuff is confusing, im thinking of just lifting my Tahoe now. (but guess its the same principals just higher numbers)

 

[Atomic]

A stiffer or lighter spring? Wouldnt a lighter spring make it too soft?
Also, since he is at the midpoint of shock travel and its bouncy, couldnt he change the shock settings to correct it, since if i understand right, it now has more preload on the spring, but the shock is where it should be.

And yep stud mount was our main topic to get lower. I am still going to try it out. I think it will get me the height i want and be in the correct spot on the shock. right now its a tad lower than half.



Why are you going back to the pro-comp? b/c of the bouncy ride?

Wish i had a nice jack that would lift my tahoe & id try it out on my own time.

All this lowering stuff is confusing, im thinking of just lifting my Tahoe now. (but guess its the same principals just higher numbers)

A stiffer spring will increase the frequency of oscillations and lessen their amplitude, so it wont feel as bouncy and wont bottom out as easily. To combat the higher frequency you need more dampening from the shock to smooth it out quicker.

In general, if it feels like a go cart, you want a lighter spring. If it feels like a 1982 Cadillac with original shocks, you need stiffer springs

Im not sure what your math background is, but this is exactly a spring-dampener system (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damping).

 

[Bomba02]

Doesn't cranking up the coil over change the rate of the spring or I guess it's force pushing up idk if that makes sense....so best way is to have slight preload and obviously try to keep shock around center of travel, so bc it's a small shock we don't have a lot of adjustment?? Idk if any of these makes sense....lol

Atomic do you know of any spring with more rate of 1300lbs?