Can someone help with trailer braking?

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TahoeLT10

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Got 2010 Tahoe LT. Getting ready to purchase a camper. After some research, the vehicle has the following RPO codes: GU6, G80, K5L, Z82, which tells me the vehicle's tow capacity is 8200lbs due to 3.42 differential ratio, HD cooling package, HD Traveling equipment package, and posi locking differential. When looking at a camper today, the seller had 2500 Silverado and had a travel brake controller. Why doesn't my vehicle have it and do I really need it? Does my vehicle apply braking to the trailer without this controller? Is the controller simply a "park brake" equivalent or something else? I am getting ready to tow this 6000lbs trailer and now skeptical that my car's brakes alone will be able to handle the load. Thanks much.

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wjburken

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Got 2010 Tahoe LT. Getting ready to purchase a camper. After some research, the vehicle has the following RPO codes: GU6, G80, K5L, Z82, which tells me the vehicle's tow capacity is 8200lbs due to 3.42 differential ratio, HD cooling package, HD Traveling equipment package, and posi locking differential. When looking at a camper today, the seller had 2500 Silverado and had a travel brake controller. Why doesn't my vehicle have it and do I really need it? Does my vehicle apply braking to the trailer without this controller? Is the controller simply a "park brake" equivalent or something else? I am getting ready to tow this 6000lbs trailer and now skeptical that my car's brakes alone will be able to handle the load. Thanks much.

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You need to have a trailer brake controller. It activates the electric trailer brakes and allows you to set the “gain” of the brakes to match up with what you’re pulling. Without it, the brakes on your trailer will not be functional. You may have to do some final hook-up of some wires at the fuse box under your hood and there is probably a harness with pigtail wires tucked under your drivers dash board by the brake pedal.

Here is a good resource for what it takes to install a brake controller on your vehicle.
https://www.etrailer.com/bc-2010_Chevrolet_Tahoe.htm
 
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TahoeLT10

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You need to have a trailer brake controller. It activates the electric trailer brakes and allows you to set the “gain” of the brakes to match up with what you’re pulling. Without it, the brakes on your trailer will not be functional. You may have to do some final hook-up of some wires at the fuse box under your hood and there is probably a harness with pigtail wires tucked under your drivers dash board by the brake pedal.

Here is a good resource for what it takes to install a brake controller on your vehicle.
https://www.etrailer.com/bc-2010_Chevrolet_Tahoe.htm
Perfect. This is the answer I was looking for for. Thanks much.

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swathdiver

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Why doesn't my vehicle have it

It was an option on our 1500s from 2009 forward. So you know about the wire between the fender and fuse box to activate your aftermarket TBC. There's also a wire bundle under your brake booster that goes to the other stud at the front of the fuse box that provides power to the interior of the trailer or trailer battery.

You can download an Upfitter's Manual for these trucks and see how it works and hooks up. Just remember to disconnect the truck from trailer when the engine is not running so whatever power is on in the trailer will not drain your Tahoe's battery. Such as if you pull into Cracker Barrel for dinner and leave the fridge running on electric or something like that.

Post up some photos of the two hooked up when you can.
 

intheburbs

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Got 2010 Tahoe LT. Getting ready to purchase a camper. After some research, the vehicle has the following RPO codes: GU6, G80, K5L, Z82, which tells me the vehicle's tow capacity is 8200lbs due to 3.42 differential ratio, HD cooling package, HD Traveling equipment package, and posi locking differential. When looking at a camper today, the seller had 2500 Silverado and had a travel brake controller. Why doesn't my vehicle have it and do I really need it? Does my vehicle apply braking to the trailer without this controller? Is the controller simply a "park brake" equivalent or something else? I am getting ready to tow this 6000lbs trailer and now skeptical that my car's brakes alone will be able to handle the load. Thanks much.

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Frankly, if you're having to ask such a basic question, I strongly suggest you learn a lot more about towing before you actually hitch up. There's a lot going on when you connect/tow a trailer that weighs more than your tow vehicle. rv.net is the encyclopedic forum for all things RV. There's a separate Travel Trailer forum (click here), and a Tow Vehicle forum (click here), as well as a general Towing forum (click here). Please, before you hitch up and tow a big trailer with your loved ones aboard, educate yourself as much as possible.

BTW, the Tekonsha P3 is the undisputed gold standard of brake controllers. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Br...et/Tahoe/2010/90195.html?VehicleID=2010202969

PS - Don't rely on the RV Salesman/dealership for good information. They just want your money and a sale. When I first got into RVing 15 years ago, I drove onto the lot with my half-ton Suburban. The salesman said, and this is an exact quote, "Oh, that thing can tow anything on the lot." Couldn't be further from the truth.
 
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TahoeLT10

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It was an option on our 1500s from 2009 forward. So you know about the wire between the fender and fuse box to activate your aftermarket TBC. There's also a wire bundle under your brake booster that goes to the other stud at the front of the fuse box that provides power to the interior of the trailer or trailer battery.

You can download an Upfitter's Manual for these trucks and see how it works and hooks up. Just remember to disconnect the truck from trailer when the engine is not running so whatever power is on in the trailer will not drain your Tahoe's battery. Such as if you pull into Cracker Barrel for dinner and leave the fridge running on electric or something like that.

Post up some photos of the two hooked up when you can.
Thanks you. Yes, I did some reading last night seems that wire connectors are pretty straight forward. Will post pics later.

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PG01

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@intheburbs

It’s weird, my alerts say you quoted my post in this thread yet I have no posts.... in this thread.... lol

BAC389C0-D506-4D85-B55C-0BB8E3CBE315.jpeg
 

intheburbs

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@intheburbs

It’s weird, my alerts say you quoted my post in this thread yet I have no posts.... in this thread.... lol

View attachment 251517

I did, inadvertently. I guess the website still had one of your replies from a previous session and another thread (that I either did quote, or thought about quoting and had clicked quote) in the cache, so when I added the quote of the OP, it added yours, too, and I only realized after posting, so then I deleted it.
 

PG01

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I did, inadvertently. I guess the website still had one of your replies from a previous session and another thread (that I either did quote, or thought about quoting and had clicked quote) in the cache, so when I added the quote of the OP, it added yours, too, and I only realized after posting, so then I deleted it.
Gotcha
 

thompsoj22

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Got 2010 Tahoe LT. Getting ready to purchase a camper. After some research, the vehicle has the following RPO codes: GU6, G80, K5L, Z82, which tells me the vehicle's tow capacity is 8200lbs due to 3.42 differential ratio, HD cooling package, HD Traveling equipment package, and posi locking differential. When looking at a camper today, the seller had 2500 Silverado and had a travel brake controller. Why doesn't my vehicle have it and do I really need it? Does my vehicle apply braking to the trailer without this controller? Is the controller simply a "park brake" equivalent or something else? I am getting ready to tow this 6000lbs trailer and now skeptical that my car's brakes alone will be able to handle the load. Thanks much.

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Congrats on the decision to go RV'ing! As stated above if you are buying from a sales lot they will sell you anything that will clear their driveway after the purchase. If you havent allready closed the deal i highly advise you to look for for one of the "ultra light" travel trailers and not to exceed 4000 lbs loaded! If you have allready bought the 6000lb dry weight trailer it's ok, their nice and comfortable! The only drawback is you will climb all 6 degree hills at 4000 rpm, If you have a headwind, yup 4000 rpm at 55 if your lucky at 8mpg. But no worries, just do what most all of us have done and buy a yukon xl 6.2 or the suburban 2500 6.0 and your RV'ing venture will be off and running. No offense to anyone, But my meaningless opinion is the tahoe wheelbase with 4.8/5.3 should be limited to 3500 lbs loaded weight max.
 
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I did, inadvertently. I guess the website still had one of your replies from a previous session and another thread (that I either did quote, or thought about quoting and had clicked quote) in the cache, so when I added the quote of the OP, it added yours, too, and I only realized after posting, so then I deleted it.
Damn tech no logy

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PG01

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Damn tech no logy

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He prob was gonna light me up anyway...... I don’t think he likes me very much..... same goes for you I suppose..... but it’s the internet so meh..... **** em’ if they can’t take a joke...
 

79jasper

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Frankly, if you're having to ask such a basic question, I strongly suggest you learn a lot more about towing before you actually hitch up. There's a lot going on when you connect/tow a trailer that weighs more than your tow vehicle. rv.net is the encyclopedic forum for all things RV. There's a separate Travel Trailer forum (click here), and a Tow Vehicle forum (click here), as well as a general Towing forum (click here). Please, before you hitch up and tow a big trailer with your loved ones aboard, educate yourself as much as possible.

No offense to OP, but I wholeheartedly agree.
Too many people jump in and buy a big travel trailer, have no experience with a trailer period. You see the end result all the time. Worse than swift drivers.
Before going on a trip, need to find some back roads to get a feel for the trailer. Same for backing up. Try to avoid situations where you have to back up, but practice it so if you ever get in a situation, you can do it competently.

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TahoeLT10

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No offense to OP, but I wholeheartedly agree.
Too many people jump in and buy a big travel trailer, have no experience with a trailer period. You see the end result all the time. Worse than swift drivers.
Before going on a trip, need to find some back roads to get a feel for the trailer. Same for backing up. Try to avoid situations where you have to back up, but practice it so if you ever get in a situation, you can do it competently.

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No offence taken and I couldn't agree more with you guys. We wanted a smaller trailer, but couldn't make it work due to our family size. I consider myself a confident driver, but moving this 33ft, 6025lbs, beast yesterday from seller's home 80 miles away was a scary experience. I took it slow while observing transmission temperature, but swaying, pushing, look out for low creating and use of extended mirrors was not something I am used to. I understand the importance of trailer brakes and my question was more of a rant in its way. I was under the impression if Tahoe has a towing package, it was the trailer brakes. I was wrong. I ordered the p3 model and will install it next week. I will certainly continue to research and education as well as parking lot practicing of turning and backing up.

The question still remains. What should be normal tranny temp range when towing this much weight? The normal, without the load, is under 175. When towing, my temp went up to 208 max and then down and mainly stayed in 190 range. Also, do you guys tow in 2 wheel drive or 4x4?

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thompsoj22

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No offence taken and I couldn't agree more with you guys. We wanted a smaller trailer, but couldn't make it work due to our family size. I consider myself a confident driver, but moving this 33ft, 6025lbs, beast yesterday from seller's home 80 miles away was a scary experience. I took it slow while observing transmission temperature, but swaying, pushing, look out for low creating and use of extended mirrors was not something I am used to. I understand the importance of trailer brakes and my question was more of a rant in its way. I was under the impression if Tahoe has a towing package, it was the trailer brakes. I was wrong. I ordered the p3 model and will install it next week. I will certainly continue to research and education as well as parking lot practicing of turning and backing up.

The question still remains. What should be normal tranny temp range when towing this much weight? The normal, without the load, is under 175. When towing, my temp went up to 208 max and then down and mainly stayed in 190 range. Also, do you guys tow in 2 wheel drive or 4x4?

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Jeeze man, Im kinda speechless. Thats alot of trailer! Tow in 2 wheel drive only, Stay as close to home as possible for the first couple trips. When you reserve RV spaces ask for a "pull through" which allows you to not have to back it in to spot it. Plan your stops at gas stations/restaurants with an exit plan, You cant "U TURN" with weight distribution hitches. Get an anti sway device immediately, Watch out for your plumbing that hangs low under the trailer, if a driveway entry/exit is to steep it will destroy it, Add speed bumps to the list also. Wallmart parking is your safe haven if "WIND" forces you to pull over for a night. Allways check trailer tire pressure prior to travel. Hold on, There should be an RV forum as there is just to much to list. Just get out there and make it happen! Your trans temp when pulling a grade or into the wind can and will exceed 230 degrees, get a trans cooler! Ill say it again you are extremely under powered and under wheel based. Sorry for the negative vibe, Our last tow vehicle was an 08 tahoe with the 3.42/4.8 and i even swapped to a 3.73 and it helped but didnt change the towing experience of our 25 ft aljo light 4,400 lb loaded weight. I was limited by wind/grade as to where we could travel, And how long will the drivetrain last at 4000 rpm. Ill shut up now! I had to edit, this is alot of BS opinion, I was supposed to be speechless!
 
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TahoeLT10

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Jeeze man, Im kinda speechless. Thats alot of trailer! Tow in 2 wheel drive only, Stay as close to home as possible for the first couple trips. When you reserve RV spaces ask for a "pull through" which allows you to not have to back it in to spot it. Plan your stops at gas stations/restaurants with an exit plan, You cant "U TURN" with weight distribution hitches. Get an anti sway device immediately, Watch out for your plumbing that hangs low under the trailer, if a driveway entry/exit is to steep it will destroy it, Add speed bumps to the list also. Wallmart parking is your safe haven if "WIND" forces you to pull over for a night. Allways check trailer tire pressure prior to travel. Hold on, There should be an RV forum as there is just to much to list. Just get out there and make it happen! Your trans temp when pulling a grade or into the wind can and will exceed 230 degrees, get a trans cooler! Ill say it again you are extremely under powered and under wheel based. Sorry for the negative vibe, Our last tow vehicle was an 08 tahoe with the 3.42/4.8 and i even swapped to a 3.73 and it helped but didnt change the towing experience of our 25 ft aljo light 4,400 lb loaded weight. I was limited by wind/grade as to where we could travel, And how long will the drivetrain last at 4000 rpm. Ill shut up now! I had to edit, this is alot of BS opinion, I was supposed to be speechless!
Thanks. We might be moving to another country next year so purchasing a new vehicle is not a good plan right now. My tahoe has a tranny cooler, max tow package, and other relevant packages as indicated by RPO codes. We will take few short trips later this month and if all goes well, we'll be moving across the US.

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Larryjb

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Too late now, but Trailmanor makes some pretty nifty trailers. They are MUCH easier to tow, but expand by 8 feet.
 

swathdiver

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The question still remains. What should be normal tranny temp range when towing this much weight? The normal, without the load, is under 175. When towing, my temp went up to 208 max and then down and mainly stayed in 190 range. Also, do you guys tow in 2 wheel drive or 4x4?

The transmission does not overheat until the high 260s. Towing on flat roads at a steady state, your numbers are fine. It will go up in stop and go traffic and the hills or mountains.

In 36K miles or so miles we did a couple hundred miles of local towing and an analysis of the transmission fluid said it was pretty wore out and had about 5-10K miles of life left in it. I changed it out. So that being said, change your fluid after a taxing trip or two, say if the trans got into the 230s or more for good insurance.

Look into the Hensley Arrow and ProPride 3P hitches. They'll make towing and maneuvering with your Tahoe a much more enjoyable experience.

Remember, with that much trailer, not much can be aboard the Tahoe to stay within the Gross Weight limits.

Have you taken trip to the CAT Scales yet at your nearest truck stop?
 

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