Camaro SS, track trips, build pics etc.

Discussion in 'Other Vehicles' started by 01ssreda4, Nov 21, 2015.

  1. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Big converter issues. Figured why not go ahead and add the deep pan. Adds like 4Q 16oz more then a stock pan.
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    Not gonna get super technical, but a GM PS pump can put out 12/1300 psi under full load. AN hose is rated around 350psi with a burst strength of like triple that. PTFE AN hose has a rating of 1250psi. Its better suited for the high pressure line. So i bought some and swapped out the pressure side of the power steering. You can see the teflon lining inside the hose.
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    I guess I can let the cat out of the bag. Placed an order through Wolfe for their 10 point chromoly cage. Likely gonna add swingouts to it. Im really not going for tech in a racing class, Im doing it for safety and piece of mind. Also told them what the hell, add wheel tubs to the order too.
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  2. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Parachute Mount: CEE-3450, CEE-3451
    Door bar kit: RHC-14-0020
    5 point harness: RJS 1032001
    Going to make the chute mount from scratch, and add in the door swingouts to the cage (wasn't an option from Wolfe).
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  3. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Good news. We all know times change, and as much hard work and money as we spend, and when we take time to document it we want it to reach as many people as possible. With that being said you FB users can come visit the new page. My plan is to organize pics and info in an easy to find setup and reach more people. So if youre on FB come like the page.
    https://www.facebook.com/01ssreda4/
    I have sold my XSPower battery, and replaced it with this. Didnt look at the battery size code (not in the pic) but I will get the part numbers for all of it once everything is here and i start the install.
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  4. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Still accumulating stuff, no time to work on it due to having some paying jobs i need to finish first. We are at 1 month wait on the cage/tubs, maybe i will get lucky and get it next week.
    Quick recap, on the to-do list: 10 point chromoly cage with swingouts, rear wheel tubs, rear mount battery/box, 5 point harnesses, custom parachute mount. Also, I been looking at the RSM tubular front end kit. I like it, but i think I could make it and save $600. However, the wiring on the front of the car would need to be redone for it to look nice. Im considering moving the fuse boxes and all available wiring to under the dash. IF that happens, I may go straight from this into a tubular front end setup. If Im rewiring the heavy gauge wire for the battery, and the dash is out, its a perfect time to explore these options.. Wouldnt mind the PCM inside the car too for a cleaner look......Hmmm
    This is the initial buy, 25ft 2g black and 25ft 2g red, 20ft 4g red. 20 piece 2g terminals, local store battery. Will add stuff as needed as I lay the wire out in the car.
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    Battery size, fits the box like a glove.
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    Some roll cage gussets. Not sure why i bought these, and dont know where I'm gonna put them, will figure it out once the cage is in. These measure 4"x4".
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    Figured I'd step up my wiring game some so I bought this. Biggest available bulkhead weather pack Ive found is 22 wires. My plan is to hook up the big battery, pull all fuses under the hood i dont "think" i need, then check to make sure everything works (lights, engine runs, door locks, hatch pops, etc). Once i get down to only the circuits i need, I can count how many wires need to be moved/extended and how many can be deleted to give me an idea of the difficulty level of this job. What I would really like is maybe to trim the rear side of the glovebox door off (basically make it a flat swingout panel), then make it when you open the door the fuse blocks are there to service. Will look more into that later.
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    I think the very first thing Im gonna tackle is the chute mount and battery cutoff switch in the rear of the car. Its about the only part of this project thats not intertwined with some other part.
     
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  5. iamdub

    iamdub Content may not be suitable for all audiences

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    The "intertwined" tasks... Those are what keep the snowballs rollin' and growin' and why we end up with piles of parts but no time!
     
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  6. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    New toy:
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    Took my 6x6 plates and drilled holes:
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    Needed about 45" of pipe. The old driver door bar needed just a little trimmed off.
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    Plan to add some gussets and do powder coat this week coming up.
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    Test fit....
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  7. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Removed the mismatched coolers and added a second matching cooler, all new brackets, and got lucky and only had to modify one AN line even though i changed their orientation.
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    Getting closer.
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    Added some cross bracing and its off to the powder coat shop.
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  8. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Slow progress.
    Bought this little dealie. Spot weld cutter.
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    Works pretty good. Lets see what else I can F up.
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    Back seat armrests kicked my butt. Not removing the rest of the brackets because they will get cut out with the tubs.
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    Mount back from powder coat.
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    Quick mock-up, no bolts in the bumper.
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    Got the battery box mounted to the floor.
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    Bought a brass 3/8" bulkhead, trimmed the inner side off, and hooked the box's vent tube to it.
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    These are terminal bulkheads, and a shut off breaker. Shut off breaker will control the alt, so in the event of a wreck (short) the alt line is killed. The rest of the + power will go to the bulkhead on the firewall and be distributed from there. All that will get killed by the external switch of the back panel. The alt will stay live during a power down to save the diodes inside it.
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    Car is gutted except the dash. This is trans tunnel padding and all the remaining wire thats not needed from the dash back. Including all audio, center console airbag, power driver seat, and power mirror. If it doesnt make the engine run, lights work, or gauges work, its gone. The exception will be electronic hatch release, and power windows and locks.
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    Next up is under dash wiring. Wish me luck!!!
     
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  9. 01ssreda4

    01ssreda4 Full Access Member

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    Fuse Box Relocate.
    First let me say I have 3 afternoons tied up in this. It was not difficult but slow. You will strip every piece of loom and electrical tape off the car so be prepared for sticking fingers and a mess to clean up. Let me also add that I've already removed some audio wiring in the past. There are almost NO wires needing to be altered. You'll see by the end.
    First, strip the car, and cut off every plug of the things you do not want/need. I plan to keep all lights, power windows and locks, and electric hatch release. The plugs that were cut were, daytime running lights (module), power driver seat, wipers, washer fluid motor, fog lights, all AC, all audio, all airbags, power mirrors, ABS, traction control, defroster, horn, all emissions, basically if it doesnt run the car, its gone.
    Strip it. Mine needed to come out for a cage so it was perfect timing.
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    I made this really crappy drawing in MS Paint, but please reference it, the color codes tell you what harnesses do what and how we will move them. The green harness runs about from door to door INSIDE under the windshield, it contains mostly audio and door wiring. You can clearly see this harness in the pic above. The yellow is the BCM harness, its in the passenger kick panel and the harness runs mid-level in the dash. This harness gets basically unaltered except deleting wires out of it. The black goes through the driver firewall through a bulkhead fitting and contains all the power and signal for everything inside to work with everything outside the car. The blue is from the pcm to the car, all its power and interactions strictly dealing with engine functions, it runs along the top of the radiator. This is real easy, where the black meets the yellow, we will disconnect there, pull it through the firewall, back around the top of the radiator and shove it all back in the passenger side AC delete panel.
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    I first pulled every single unneeded wire from both door sills, and center console, that will give you a nice easy start. If you delete audio, there will be no more passenger door side wires. Driver side will still have tail-lights and hatch if you keep those. Just take your time and trace every wire. If you cut the end off, trace it through the harnesses till it terminates and clip it off.
    There were 4 total wires i had to cut (to get the black harness out of the car and into the engine bay), but the rest unplugged and the bulkhead under the booster is ready to be disassembled.
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    It has a bees wax type stuff injection molded into it. You'll need to melt that with a heat gun and pry it apart.
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    I did a full disassemble bc lots of wire colors are similar, and a lot that you deleted inside led you to here, so you'll need to continue the delete under the hood. And i didnt want to probe wires.
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    With the 4 wires cut, and a couple off the steering column disconnected, you can pull the whole harness from the drivers side to keep going. At this point the whole thing is only connected through the passenger side.
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    Pull out fog lights, horn, whatever is along your way and get those fuse boxes un-mounted.
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    Here's the end of the harness, this was plugged in about where the yellow and black met in the crappy pic above. Once we shove it back through the passenger side, they will reach easily to reconnect, this time on the inside of the car.
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    For simplicity sake i tied up each headlight side wiring and fan harness as they have to come too.
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    Take the pcm, its passenger fender connectors, and both fuse boxes and shove em through the delete panel.
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    Notch your plate at the bottom corner for the starter wire, and the top corner for the PCM bulk wiring.
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    Im moving my battery to the back so I'm adding bulkheads here to distribute main power wires. Pcm will be mounted right next to them.
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    Here's the wiring I deleted. Xbox remote for size reference.
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    Other variations for YOUR car will include what you do with your battery, what all you delete, and how you want to get PCM wiring back through OR leave it where it was. I want the PCM inside the car for whatever dumb reason. You'll need to get headlight and fan wiring back to the front. So cut it and extend it (maybe 15 wires), route how you like. I'm doing a tubular front end so I'm waiting on that first. Remember to reconnect the black harness where you disconnected from. Make a PCM/fuse block mount to whatever you fabrication skills allow.
     
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  10. iamdub

    iamdub Content may not be suitable for all audiences

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    Watching the transformation is fascinating.
     

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