Discussion in 'Other Vehicles' started by 01ssreda4, Nov 21, 2015.
I thought those were ejection seats for a second!
Got the AN hose ends in, and the MAP sensor pigtail installed. When I cranked the car it was idling at 16.5 AFR so i threw some fuel at it in HPTuners and realized I'm probably starting over from scratch retuning the car. Not super thrilled about that.
Got to play with the cutoff wheel a little today. Here's our specimen. After lowering the fuel lines away from the floor I drew out a basic line about where i thought the patch panel would go. Front seat bracket is going bye bye.
This was my first initial cut. I ended up trimming more out of the back, tunnel side, and front edge.
Here's the patch panel being tacked in place. Its 16g (pretty stout), the tunnel and rear edge have bent edges
I generally go overboard with seam sealer. If you're worried about looks, you can putty knife it while its still wet, or sand it after its dry. I didnt do either bc there will be carpet covering it.
I hit it with some red paint. Its a little glossy but again no one will see it, really just did it for rust prevention on the steel panel. The color variation in the center that makes it look wavy is just a reflection off the roof of the garage. The back hatch was open. Panel going in vs metal cut out was about a wash weight wise.
I have a tracking number on the Wolfe door panels, should be here today, I ordered a big piece of black carpet to cover the entire rear section of the car. I also realized i forgot to order two of the steering adapters I need to make the hoses so I did that. Hope to get the passenger rear floor to match this side this weekend and onto the door panels. There are also about 6 rear brackets that can be removed (rear seats and belts etc) so Im deciding whether i want to drill all those spot welds. I estimate all 6 brackets would be 15ish pounds maybe. Decisions decisions.
Got a little done this weekend. Basically started with this:
Realized right off the bat, the hole they cut for the door handle was a courtesy cut, and nowhere near correct for install.
This was my initial thinking, but ended up about doubling it due to me wanting the lock lever to be exposed.
The original mounts for the stock door panel need to go bye bye.
The plan is to use dsus or 1/4 turn fasteners, I want to be able to easily remove the panel if needed. Here's how they go together, the gold spring goes inside the door, riveted, and the black fastener is what you see on the outside of the door panel.
Here's one installed:
There are lots of things around the perimeter of the door that will obstruct placing your springs inside. I went around the door and marked Xs anywhere where there was something in the way. Along the bottom of the door there is ribbing/reinforcement every few inches.
Here's where i selected the 5 could go with the least amount of issue:
Here is my final passenger door cut for the handle and the lock lever:
Lay out your wrap. Once it was on i hit it very quickly with a heat gun on the low setting.
Driver door mock up, no trim, and need to put the switches somewhere, may extend them to the center console.
Add a little black paint around the handle:
Passenger door with trim installed. The rubber at the upper front of the door requires minor trimming, the rubber at the rear of the door does not.
Pic looking from the inside...
I used the cutoff wheel to cut off the mounts, the bodysaw to trim the handle holes, the carbide grinder to finish them out, the file to take the ridges off my cuts, and the silver tar tape (roof repair) on the rear of the panel to give it a little weight so it wont rattle against the door, this step optional.
Random pic, Im trying to do racecar stuff and got the hood wanting to fall on my fingers. After 17 years the stockers gave up the ghost. New one on bottom.
This reminded me of those days with my S10, only it wasn't my fingers, it was me stabbing my head on the hood latch and constantly bumping the prop rod while I was trying to do racectruck stuff. I found the only F-body at the salvage yard that had it's hood up, so I snagged the struts off of it. I cut the ball mounts off the hood and hinge assembly of a late-90s Buick Century since they were simple angles and flat pieces that I could easily adapt to the S10's hood and fender.
I located them to max out the hood's hinges, so I gained an extra 4" of head clearance. Between that and not having that prop rod in the way, I felt like I was working under the hood of a fullsize truck. Plus it was cool to unlatch the hood and pick it up about 7" and it'd float up on it's own the rest of the way.
Cool idea. Yeah they are nice for sure.
Though i dont have many miles on this combo I always try to think of things that may be a potential issue down the road. I havent liked the idea of the plastic Dorman overflow tank, so I bought an aluminum one.......and made a simple L bracket.
Quick test fit
Have heard stories about how turbo heat can effect batteries so I wrapped this one with a DEI starter blanket.
Back in place. Waiting on an adapter fitting that goes into the bottom of the overflow tank. It is -8AN ORB of all sizes.
Have all the fittings to make the new power steering hoses. So, I will be doing that soon.
Finally got the passenger rear seat delete done. They sent me the wrong color carpet so I sent it back. Not sure what Im gonna do so Im just leaving it for now. May get a wild hair and order some one day soon.
I need to wire the door switches, then put the finishing trim on the doors and the interior, at least the front half. I think the tune is more important so I will focus on that as the weather cooperates and fool with the back half later. May leave it out until i cage it. Brake pedal has been spongy so I re-bled the rears and put the slicks back on, it wasn't gonna be tuned safely on the drag radials. May add a temporary back brace to the seats.
First step, remove belt, PS pump, and hoses. Install your two fittings in the rack. Lower fitting is the pressure line.
Fitting side of AN fitting
Hose side of AN fitting. The ridges hold the hose, and there is a stop collar.
Insert the hose fully till it stops on the stop collar ridge. You'll notice the debris from the cutting. You'll need to flush the line before final install.
Oil the threads and the angled section. I use any type of oil in a $1 ketchup squirter from the dollar store.
Clamp the lower and thread it in carefully.
Mock everything up so you know length. This fitting needs to be vertical, not slanted in the pic.
Cut to length and assemble. Done. Notice I'm using a fuel injection type clamp. This will keep it from digging into the exterior during tightening.
The final result hugs the motor instead of the hotside.
Car hauler is getting a winch soon!! Cause we KNOW something is gonna break.
So, in conclusion to the door panel portion of the thread.....I selected to lose power mirrors, and dash mount the switch. After careful consideration it seemed like the best choice for ease of installation and aesthetics. I carefully trimmed off the mirror control off the top of the master switch, no need for it anymore. I selected this spot on the underdash panel due to clearance in that area. Make a hole, insert, hot glue from the backside.
If you dont wanna cut/splice/extend, the stock harness will reach your new location. The issue is there are about 25 wires in the door, and about 5 need to stay. So you'll need to separate what goes to the switch, delete what you dont want, then pull it back through the boot. The long strand i have hung on the door is the plug in for the switch, separated and wrapped in tape and just propped up for the pic. The small strand coming out of the kickpanel next to it is power mirror and switch light wiring thats been cut and not needed.
Here's final install. Panel has probably been in storage for a year so its a little dusty but you get the idea. Works great and i can almost reach it when i pretend I'm strapped into a 5 point harness.
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