Broken Motor Mounts

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iamdub

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I’m thinking it may also be time on my 2010 suburban 2500. Did a search around those keywords but nothing. Anyone know if the same design flaw & fix is pertinent to the 3/4 ton SUVs?

I'm not the authority on this, but I don't believe the 2500s got the fluid-filled mounts. You should be able to easily tell by comparing them to your Tahoe's mounts. Maybe snap a pic of the Tahoe's mounts and slide up under the Suburban and compare. Or, if they're blown, there will be rust-colored trails all on and around them where it leaks down on the frame.
 

Marshall 008

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my passenger side just leaked out on my driveway. Looks like changing both out will be in my future.
 

bill1013

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my passenger side just leaked out on my driveway. Looks like changing both out will be in my future.
I just changed out both of my hyd. motor mounts at 115K miles. The drivers side had been leaking since around 65K miles. Here's hoping the last longer than the OEM.
 

Charlie207

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The heat shields make them a PIA

They sure as **** were.

UWrx1vz.jpg
 
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B-train

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I've done a couple sets of these now on various Denalis with 6.2L. I found that you can really make it easy on yourself by removing the tire for the side you are working on. After the truck is secure, you can use a floor jack to lift gently with a wood block on the exhaust down pipe. This will allow for that "little extra" room that seems to be needed to wiggle them out. First set, cussed all the bad words......second set figured out the jack idea and had both sides done in less than an hour.
 

Charlie207

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I've done a couple sets of these now on various Denalis with 6.2L. I found that you can really make it easy on yourself by removing the tire for the side you are working on. After the truck is secure, you can use a floor jack to lift gently with a wood block on the exhaust down pipe. This will allow for that "little extra" room that seems to be needed to wiggle them out. First set, cussed all the bad words......second set figured out the jack idea and had both sides done in less than an hour.

That's what I did. I saw a few videos on engine mount removal, and some were stupid... needing two people and five Hail Marys. Some dude made a 2 minute video with minimal words, and just pointed at stuff; a picture is worth a thousand words type of deal.
 

09_4WD_YUKON

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Little less than 3 year later, driver side gone again. Looks like I may do it this time and use the Hummer mounts. That was a $900 job back then for both sides plus the trans mount, paid by Carsheild, but they highly ticked off the shop that did it and he told me that he wouldn't do it again. Carshield not the best warranty company to work with.

So, do both sides need to changed with the Hummer mount? Just seems like the DS needs to be replaced.
 
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iamdub

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Little less than 3 year later, driver side gone again. Looks like I may do it this time and use the Hummer mounts. That was a $900 job back then for both sides plus the trans mount, paid by Carsheild, but they highly ticked off the shop that did it and he told me that he wouldn't do it again. Carshield not the best warranty company to work with.

So, do both sides need to changed with the Hummer mount? Just seems like the DS needs to be replaced.


Engineers would say that all the mounts are designed to work in concert with each other and, therefore, should all be the same. I think if the other mounts are new, then replacing just the driver side (the more stressed side) with the stronger one is all that's needed. Just know that you should keep an eye on that passenger side one.
 

denalilex

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So I just returned from my mechanic after a routine oil change and he shows me I have a cracked drivers side motor mount!!!! WTF... I mean seriously GM? You would think they would install a strong enough motor mount for what people use these SUV's for. My mechanic ony works with GMC and Chevy's and he said he is noticing this often.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Oh and cause where it is located, not the cheapest of repairs either..:flamingdevil:
i , too , have a failed drivers motor mount. this is VERY COMMON(can’t stress this enough) in these NNBS GMT900s …. i’ve noticed - & this is after rebuilding my valve body & TEHCM - that it can - at times - mimic a rough shift - typically occurring when accelerating from 1st braking & thus, result in mistaken presumed diagnosing. or a head scratcher at what’s actually causing your issues.

after replacing my VB & still experiencing that bump sensation, i plugged my scanner in & ran active tests on my trans & noticed my parameters were fine & my trans issues were fixed with the VB & TEHCM rebuild. timing was correct & i noticed the issue was occurring after immediately after the shift already compelted. it was this forum & another member suggestion to look towards my motor mounts. took my endoscope & looked around INSIDE the billet-esque aluminum housing & noticed it had cracked completly apart.

i have it in the plans this upcoming to change it out this weekend by jacking the engine just slightly under the firewall & hoping to get enough clearance to do so.


sorry for the novel but i did a boat load of research & TSB reading & this is a very very common issue , unfortunately, more so now that these trucks are 15 years old at least.


hope this helps someone who might be unsure of their jerking culprit.

07 GMC Yukon Denali 6.2 V8
 

09_4WD_YUKON

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Engineers would say that all the mounts are designed to work in concert with each other and, therefore, should all be the same. I think if the other mounts are new, then replacing just the driver side (the more stressed side) with the stronger one is all that's needed. Just know that you should keep an eye on that passenger side one.
lol, engineers also designed the gel filled mount that does not last no time!!!
 

MarshMarlowe

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Just got my wife's 2012 Tahoe back from the dealer for a trans flush and filter change @ 97k miles. Tech noted that the engine mount is suspect bad. After reading thru this thread, I'd say it's inevitable that the driver's side mount is bad, and quite possibly the passenger side.

We bought this Tahoe used with 68k miles from this same dealer. They threw in a drive forever warranty on the engine and power train. The warranty paperwork states motor mounts are covered. I called the warranty administration company, and they confirmed this. Wouldn't you know it, the service managers swear the engine mounts aren't covered. I guess I have to fight this battle now
 

OR VietVet

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Just got my wife's 2012 Tahoe back from the dealer for a trans flush and filter change @ 97k miles. Tech noted that the engine mount is suspect bad. After reading thru this thread, I'd say it's inevitable that the driver's side mount is bad, and quite possibly the passenger side.

We bought this Tahoe used with 68k miles from this same dealer. They threw in a drive forever warranty on the engine and power train. The warranty paperwork states motor mounts are covered. I called the warranty administration company, and they confirmed this. Wouldn't you know it, the service managers swear the engine mounts aren't covered. I guess I have to fight this battle now
The same dealer sold you the vehicle and the warranty and the warranty company says is covered and the dealer says they are not covered and it was their tech that pointed out the problem. YOU WIN!
 

buicfrank

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Has anyone searched for mounts lately? $290.00 to $373.00 is the latest. Apiece?.. Is anyone still buying them? Frank
 

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