Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I'm curious who also has broken map light buttons in their ceiling consoles? I may have a replacement part to fix them now...
Broken map light buttons in ceiling console
- Thread starter Matthew Jeschke
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
I did, but I ended up selling the vehicle with the problem. I pulled a part from a different overhead console, but that part died within 3 months. What have you figure out? We have 4 daily drivers and a spare that might be in need of any redesigned part you have.
Thanks!
Will
OP
OP
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I designed a part for the GMT800 ceiling console. I've got the prototype working in my truck. The factory design switch is similar to a push pen, but with electrical contacts. It's VERY poor quality. I didn't realize this is the standard design for most all vehicles regardless of make. I suspect GM also reduced quality of the plastic in the switch to save money as these things are terrible flimsy. For some reason they never made a catalog part these map switches though. Nobody in aftermarket picked it up either (as I'm sure you discovered). I pulled a handful of ceiling consoles at the junkyard trying to find a replacement switch but never could, all were broken when I got them to my garage. Ended up studying the design and coming up with a replacement of my own for the two connector style switch. Some of these have three wires going to the switch. I'm not for sure what the 3rd wire is... a ground when off? The switches had disintegrated on those so I couldn't study them to figure that out... I spent a good month working in CAD and prototyped factory fitment replacement switch.
The aftermarket switches for other vehicles utilize a push in connector similar to what you have on the side of a outlet for a house. Those are problematic, however, simple to install.
If person can solder and is okay with different color wires I can ship a switch right now.
I'm trying to find a few parts to finish it up so I can create a repair kit. However, insulation would be greatly simplified as well as retain the factory configuration (wire colors) once I can find the following parts.
Butt connectors
Crimp butt connectors with integrated shrink tube....
OR uninsulated copper butt connectors (what factory uses) then I'd bundle shrink tubing.
Wiring
Purple with white stripe 14 gauge multi-strand copper wire.
AND same in white.
It kind of sucks living in a world where Radio Shack has closed up. I have to order parts I think are correct online and most of the time are not.
I'd prefer BULK rolls of shrink tubing with integrated waterproofing but I've never been able to find that in the United States. I took a harness class from HP Academy and they showed that in there. Their suppliers are in Australia though.
I've NEVER had much luck finding automotive electrical wiring outside of short lengths on eBay or Amazon.
I may also design custom push buttons, existing design reuses the original button.
Right now the prototype switch works like a champ. I soldered it into my console harness, which isn't practical for most people, nor how factory did it. There a splice pack for one side of the that utilizes an uninsulated butt connector with Kapton tape around it (shrink tubing would be more practical)... Then the second side going to the lamp should be a butt connector IMO w/ shrink tube insulation. I'm splitting hairs but, solder isn't ideal under vibration as in a vehicle. However, should be okay in console. Every time I've soldered something in drivetrain (transmission or engine) harness it ends up breaking again on me.
The aftermarket switches for other vehicles utilize a push in connector similar to what you have on the side of a outlet for a house. Those are problematic, however, simple to install.
If person can solder and is okay with different color wires I can ship a switch right now.
I'm trying to find a few parts to finish it up so I can create a repair kit. However, insulation would be greatly simplified as well as retain the factory configuration (wire colors) once I can find the following parts.
Butt connectors
Crimp butt connectors with integrated shrink tube....
OR uninsulated copper butt connectors (what factory uses) then I'd bundle shrink tubing.
Wiring
Purple with white stripe 14 gauge multi-strand copper wire.
AND same in white.
It kind of sucks living in a world where Radio Shack has closed up. I have to order parts I think are correct online and most of the time are not.
I'd prefer BULK rolls of shrink tubing with integrated waterproofing but I've never been able to find that in the United States. I took a harness class from HP Academy and they showed that in there. Their suppliers are in Australia though.
I've NEVER had much luck finding automotive electrical wiring outside of short lengths on eBay or Amazon.
I may also design custom push buttons, existing design reuses the original button.
Right now the prototype switch works like a champ. I soldered it into my console harness, which isn't practical for most people, nor how factory did it. There a splice pack for one side of the that utilizes an uninsulated butt connector with Kapton tape around it (shrink tubing would be more practical)... Then the second side going to the lamp should be a butt connector IMO w/ shrink tube insulation. I'm splitting hairs but, solder isn't ideal under vibration as in a vehicle. However, should be okay in console. Every time I've soldered something in drivetrain (transmission or engine) harness it ends up breaking again on me.
Last edited:
