Better Brakes?

[bonnie]

Best way to improve braking is? I tow a 3k boat with my stock 2wd 06 Yukon xl. The weight of the trailer/boat is noticeable/not good when stopping in a semi hard/panic type stop. The wheels are 16" So what are the best options? I have standard smooth rotors not drilled or slotted almost new condition. Just hoping there is a way to address this safety concern I have.
Thanks for the advice or directions.
Steve

 

[B-train]

What about adding trailer brakes to your setup? You can buy loaded backing plates that just pop on and then wire it up.

If that's not an option, then look for drilled and slotted rotors that have a good pad. I found some on ebay a few years back and put them on my 2009 Denali XL. They worked great, no dust, and you could tell there was additional stopping power due to increased heat rejection.

 

[Scottydoggs]

that trailer should have brakes. if it dont theres two types you can install. boats usually have tongue master cylinder. when the weight of the trailer pushes on the truck the ball hitch on the trailer moves like your pushing brake pedal. i had a 4,000 lb boat and i hardly knew it was back there when stopping.

the other type is electric with a brake box installed in the cab. but electric and water dont mix well. why they use the hydraulic style for boats.

they come in drum, and caliper/rotor style, new kits were about 400 bucks for a tandem axle. today the price has shot up. for a idea of whats out there>>> https://www.overtons.com/dexter-10-trailer-disc-brake-kit-317551.html comes with the master part and 4 rotors brackets calipers and hoses. full kit. my trailer came with drums. they got used up, the master failed and i upgraded to the caliper style kit.

if it has brakes they might need shoes replaced or adjusting. filling of the master with brake fluid, bleeding em out.

 

[swathdiver]

Best way to improve braking is? I tow a 3k boat with my stock 2wd 06 Yukon xl. The weight of the trailer/boat is noticeable/not good when stopping in a semi hard/panic type stop. The wheels are 16" So what are the best options? I have standard smooth rotors not drilled or slotted almost new condition. Just hoping there is a way to address this safety concern I have.
Thanks for the advice or directions.
Steve

Doesn't the boat trailer have brakes?

I've towed a 6K trailer without its brakes and had no problems stopping with my Yukon and it's GM OE equipment.

With properly functioning trailer brakes and the gain set correctly, the tow vehicle really shouldn't have to use it's brakes to stop the trailer.

Bill has forgotten more about trailer towing than I'll ever know, let's get his opinion. @intheburbs

 

[intheburbs]

One of my trailers is a 6x12 enclosed cargo trailer. The way I have it set up, it's 4000 lbs. No trailer brakes. Yes, yes, I can hear the finger-wagging.

My 2008 2500 hit 200k a while back, so I figured it was time to upgrade/replace the braking system - I got the Powerstop Z36 pad/rotor/caliper set for like $900. Remanufactured/repainted calipers, new slotted/drilled rotors, new carbon fiber/ceramic pads. Not a fan of drilled rotors, I've read they can be susceptible to cracking, but oh well.

I also replaced the master cylinder, power steering pump (hydro boost, not vacuum), and high-pressure lines.

The truck now brakes like new, maybe even better. No problem panic stopping with the trailer. Better pedal feel, and more linear. Completely satisfied.

PS - I would definitely look at either installing surge brakes on the trailer, or replacing it with one with brakes. I've always felt the half-ton SUVs were underbraked. I was not comfortable towing the 6x12 with my '01. The 2500 has 9900-lb brakes.

 

[bonnie]

Doesn't the boat trailer have brakes?

I've towed a 6K trailer without its brakes and had no problems stopping with my Yukon and it's GM OE equipment.

With properly functioning trailer brakes and the gain set correctly, the tow vehicle really shouldn't have to use it's brakes to stop the trailer.

Bill has forgotten more about trailer towing than I'll ever know, let's get his opinion. @intheburbs

No unfortunately it does not have brakes on it. I think I will look into having them installed at a trailer dealer near me. I have another question if anyone has any info, I understand you can up grade to a bigger rotor, caliper and pads if I get 07 and newer series parts? Apparently they are larger with more surface area on the rotor? anyone ever do that type of change?

 

[swathdiver]

No unfortunately it does not have brakes on it. I think I will look into having them installed at a trailer dealer near me. I have another question if anyone has any info, I understand you can up grade to a bigger rotor, caliper and pads if I get 07 and newer series parts? Apparently they are larger with more surface area on the rotor? anyone ever do that type of change?

NNBS front brakes are an upgrade for your NBS and folks are even swapping the even bigger 2019+ T1 brakes which have 4 piston calipers on the front.

Drilled and slotted rotors are to prevent brake fade such as a car racing around a track or a truck coming down a long mountain grade such as Route 22 or 191 in Wyoming. They also have less surface area for clamping for obvious reasons.

There are lots of "I did it" threads about brake upgrades on this forum.

 

[MassHoe04]

While nobody would turn down an excuse to upgrade to bigger/better brakes...

I agree with others to start with managing the trailer load first.
I would add brakes to the trailer or trade it for one that has brakes.
You might find a trade or swap at a marina or trailer place, which might offset cost for you.

See how much to add brakes to your trailer.
Then, see if it even makes sense to put that amount of money into an upgrade on the current trailer.

Depending on age and condition of the current trailer, you could possibly make out better swapping/trading/buying another trailer that has brakes on it.

By having braking on the trailer, you would be not beating on your truck brakes nearly as much as you would without them.

Why put all the money into the truck brakes, only to have them burn through pads at a faster rate?

If you need to prioritize... I would do trailer brakes first, then big brakes for the truck.

 

[bonnie]

While nobody would turn down an excuse to upgrade to bigger/better brakes...

I agree with others to start with managing the trailer load first.
I would add brakes to the trailer or trade it for one that has brakes.
You might find a trade or swap at a marina or trailer place, which might offset cost for you.

See how much to add brakes to your trailer.
Then, see if it even makes sense to put that amount of money into an upgrade on the current trailer.

Depending on age and condition of the current trailer, you could possibly make out better swapping/trading/buying another trailer that has brakes on it.

By having braking on the trailer, you would be not beating on your truck brakes nearly as much as you would without them.

Why put all the money into the truck brakes, only to have them burn through pads at a faster rate?

If you need to prioritize... I would do trailer brakes first, then big brakes for the truck.

Thanks for your idea of trailer first, makes sense. The current trailer is a very expensive aluminum trailer and is set up for brakes, meaning it has the mounting plate welded in place for the brake assembly so investing in brakes seems to be a good idea, I think ill go that route first but I do prefer the electric brake set up verses the surge type plus my truck has the controller already so I`ll try to water proof best I can on connections.

 

[MassHoe04]

Thanks for your idea of trailer first, makes sense. The current trailer is a very expensive aluminum trailer and is set up for brakes, meaning it has the mounting plate welded in place for the brake assembly so investing in brakes seems to be a good idea, I think ill go that route first but I do prefer the electric brake set up verses the surge type plus my truck has the controller already so I`ll try to water proof best I can on connections.

I would contact the manufacturer of your trailer and have them recommend a factory-authorized dealer for their products.
With brakes, I would want something that was designed for my trailer. You would not want too much brake or too little brake on your trailer.
You would want trailer brakes matched to the trailer rating and the loads it could carry.

You would also want brakes that were intended to be submerged in water or salt water.

That is why I would look to authorized dealer. If not for full install (which might be worth the aggravation of not having to DIY), but at a minimum, ensure you get the right kind/size/rating brakes specific to your trailer and needs. If they don't install for you, I would have them spec out what you need and order parts through them (or factory direct).

 

[mountie]

I hauled many boats in my time.... Cigarettes, Scarabs all over 30'.
Granted I used a dually......
Going down hill,...... Apply the brakes FIRMLY - Then OFF the brake in 5 seconds - Firmly again - Then off. The reason is to not ride the brakes to over heat the rotors. " The off is to cool ".

( Note) Many times, 'upgrading' your brakes may be as simple as new calipers. ( If you replace both calipers & rotors, you may think the rotors are the improvement.

>>>>> Clean brake fluid <<<<<<

 

[mountie]

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[Alex_M]

The biggest and most important thing you can do is adjust your driving style while towing. I [should, but] don't have trailer brakes on any of my vehicles. I've had 9-10k lbs behind my Tahoe. Same with my NNBS I just sold.

In was always more impressed by the NBS brakes than the NNBS brakes while towing. The NNBS brakes hold better, yes, but the NBS brakes seem to handle heat better.

Fantastic advice on pulsing your brakes down hill. another thing you can do, and this was eluded to above - braking performance improvement seen when replacing brake caliper are seen (assuming old caliper was functional) because of the fresh brake fluid in the system. Could be time to have your brake fluid flushed out with fresh. New caliper is not necessary to see this improvement. If the bleeders are stuck, just crack the banjo bolt connecting the hose to the caliper instead.

Just a side note, if you replace the caliper always go ahead and replace the hose at the same time. Often times if you have a sticky caliper, the hose is actually the problem due to breaking down internally. This often causes the hose to act like a check valve - allowing pressure to be applied but not allowing it to be released.