Best approach to improve strength of front diff and axles on lifted 2007 Tahoe LTZ

[BigRedB]

these have been on my radar for a while, but yea the 2500$ price is hard to commit to , but being pretty much the only one doing it not many options.

4l60e, is not known for its strength and durability - seeing as how its newer i would run it but not dump any more money into it. i've seen stock stock 4l80s outlive built 60s
10 bolt rear end, can be built pretty strong - i opted to swap it out. larger ring/pinion. same style oem g80 locker has a little better rep. axles are similar to the 10bolt but yukon makes replacements for the 14bolt semi float
front diff - being open carrier will likely not break, dont hear to much about axle problems, bearings and seals will wear out.
regearing will help a lot - i have 4.11s with the 6l80, if i had 35s i wouldnt want any less gear for sure..comapre he final drive you may want to get up even more

Thanks for the advice. Im looking long eyed at the transmission. I have a real good torque convertor to replace the OEM. Ive been looking at gearing for the front and rear too, it helps to hear peoples experiences. I need to really decide on the ratio for the gearing, I am just about ready to buy, so I have think long and hard to make up my mind.

I am leaning towards changing gearing in the current set up, I will probably get the CV axles too. I will run it until it breaks and then I will swap in the 480le transmission and larger rear end, ultimately this is what will make me happy. I wish I would have known I would be rebuilding the top end on the engine before I bought the transmission and axle. I made the commitment so now I have to use it til it breaks.

 

[BigRedB]

these have been on my radar for a while, but yea the 2500$ price is hard to commit to , but being pretty much the only one doing it not many options.

4l60e, is not known for its strength and durability - seeing as how its newer i would run it but not dump any more money into it. i've seen stock stock 4l80s outlive built 60s
10 bolt rear end, can be built pretty strong - i opted to swap it out. larger ring/pinion. same style oem g80 locker has a little better rep. axles are similar to the 10bolt but yukon makes replacements for the 14bolt semi float
front diff - being open carrier will likely not break, dont hear to much about axle problems, bearings and seals will wear out.
regearing will help a lot - i have 4.11s with the 6l80, if i had 35s i wouldnt want any less gear for sure..comapre he final drive you may want to get up even more

Thanks for the advice. Im looking long eyed at the transmission. I have a real good torque convertor to replace the OEM. Ive been looking at gearing for the front and rear too, it helps to hear peoples experiences. I need to really decide on the ratio for the gearing, I am just about ready to buy, so I have think long and hard to make up my mind.

I am leaning towards changing gearing in the current set up, I will probably get the CV axles too. I will run it until it breaks and then I will swap in the 480le transmission and larger rear end, ultimately this is what will make me happy. I wish I would have known I would be rebuilding the top end on the engine before I bought the transmission and axle. I made the commitment so now I have to use it til it breaks.

 

[BigRedB]

I’d go 4.56’s with the 35’s and at least swap the rear axle out.

GM half ton axles die due to big tires, high power, and hard use. You’re talking about all three.

Thanks for advice on the gearing, As soon as it breaks, I will definitely install a larger axle.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Thanks for advice on the gearing, As soon as it breaks, I will definitely install a larger axle.

If you’re spending money on regearing and parts just start looking for that 14SF now. Why spend money on a 10 bolt you’ll eventually replace?

 

[BigRedB]

Thanks for the advice. Im looking long eyed at the transmission. I have a real good torque convertor to replace the OEM. Ive been looking at gearing for the front and rear too, it helps to hear peoples experiences. I need to really decide on the ratio for the gearing, I am just about ready to buy, so I have think long and hard to make up my mind.

I am leaning towards changing gearing in the current set up, I will probably get the CV axles too. I will run it until it breaks and then I will swap in the 480le transmission and larger rear end, ultimately this is what will make me happy. I wish I would have known I would be rebuilding the top end on the engine before I bought the transmission and axle. I made the commitment so now I have to use it til it breaks.

I am replacing the front axles because the Fabtech lift uses spacers with long bolts adapted to the OEM axles because after the lift they are too short to reach the differential. This is in my opinion the weakest part of their lift. I can have the RCV Performance axles made to fit exactly, I will feel a lot more comfortable knowing they are there.

 

[BigRedB]

If you’re spending money on regearing and parts just start looking for that 14SF now. Why spend money on a 10 bolt you’ll eventually replace?

I definitely need to go on the hunt compare the costs, if it is close enough I will reach for it. You see me slowly opening up to the idea because this is how I control the monster, I have the propensity to go hog wild. I am having a great time, I enjoy the build, just as much as the finished product. I am afraid there are so many decisions buying parts for this truck will become a subconscious reflex.

 

[BigRedB]

If you’re spending money on regearing and parts just start looking for that 14SF now. Why spend money on a 10 bolt you’ll eventually replace?

The prices on the axles with the 9 1/2" ring gear aren't that bad. So the rear axle question is solved. I was being a little hard headed, I appreciate the nudge.

 

[BigRedB]

Ok I have the all of the axle questions answered. Now I need to determine gearing.
For the front differential I am doing a limited slip with a helical gear. I am still up in the air on the rear diff. There are a lot of choices, I am considering a locker, but I don't have enough experience to know which type or brand. I will hunt down and post a few, but any advice or prior experience is appreciated.

After I select the type I need to figure out what ratio, Im thinking 4:10 or 4:56. Does anyone know how much of a difference there is driving with either of these or is it close enough to be not a major difference?

 

[BigRedB]

Does anyone have any experience with this? Some of the claims are large, is all of this true? I will list them below.

https://www.carid.com/2007-chevy-ta...submodel[]=WHEEL+DRIVE|4WD+(Four+Wheel+Drive)

Enables a 2 Wheel Drive to outperform a 4 Wheel Drive in poor traction conditions
Gives 4 Wheel Drive vehicles ultimate traction performance
Maximum power to both wheels off the line and in high g turns
Torque transfer limited only by the strength of other driveline components
Dreaded wheel spin is eliminated
Smoothe and Quiet OperationSynchronization mechanism eliminates ratcheting sound typical of locking differentials
Backlash effects are minimized because of special spring/saddle design
Takes 6,000 to 36,000 ft-lbs of torque.
Much stronger than the axles
Improves driveline durability by eliminating wheel spin and the associated driveline trauma
Zytanium construction is 67% stronger than titanium
No wearing surfaces. No friction clutch packs to burn out
Easy to Install Installs in the existing differential case- no need to reset the ring & pinion

Is this real? These are tall orders. I am investigating this further for the rear end and
I would never put a locker at all on an IFS front end, but I am curious about this, I am going to try and talk to the manufacturer.

Does anyone know anything about this?

Sorry for the book.

 

[mikeyss]

https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

This is pretty useful to find out differences in speed and rpm for different rear gears. You just have to know your final transmission ratio, and tire height.