Belltech drop w/ autoride and no spacer in the rear? Questions...

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KMeloney

KMeloney

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Might have spoken too soon... Got in the truck to get some lunch, and the Service Suspension System light was on. Turns out that one of the links had popped off. Got the link back on, and still the light comes on.

Do I have to go to the dealer to have them clear this code?

Dammit.
 

THE YETI

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Unhook the negative battery lead. Wait a few. Reconnect. No?
 
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KMeloney

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Robbie -- Just went out to my truck to drive it down to my garage where I could pull the cable, and the light didn't come on. Oddness.

Even MORE odd, maybe, was that the local garage tried to scan the light to see if it would pinpoint the code issue, since the light was staying on, but their scanner only went up to '07 models. The guy tried some different things, but nothing worked (then). So, I headed back to work, thinking I'd have to go to Plan B at some point -- and realized that my turn signals weren't making any noise (and that my sub wasn't on, and so my amp clearly wasn't on...). I wondered if the guy at the garage had messed something up beyond unsuccessfully clearing the light, but everything was back to normal when I just went out to my truck.

I don't know WHAT the heck just happened, but I'm crossing my fingers that all is right again. Damn computer-driven everything....
 

2011Tahoe

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I know those lights will turn off after so many key cycles. My Tahoe had every all those light on after i lowered it and when i went to pull it into my shop they werent on anymore.
 
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KMeloney

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Yep, that appears to be true. I popped the link off again (I made them too short, obviously), the light came on, and this morning, despite the link still being unattached, the light DIDN'T come on. Goofy.
 

2011Tahoe

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KM- what have you decided to do with links? I feel me and you are in the same boat. Did you leave yours at 2"? Tonight I cut mine down to 2 1/8" after the center to center measurement they measure 2 5/8" which seems to be "ok". On my way home from work tonight I never heard the compressor kick on, and it road great. The wife says it looks dumped from the rear and it kinda does, and it almost appears that the rear is slightly lower than the front but I measured and it is almost exactly level. I am going to drive it to work tomorrow to ensure it doesnt have any problems with the links, and see what myself and the other jabronies i work with think. I am debating on doing 2 3/4" center to center. Let me know what you have decided, Thanks.

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:35 PM ----------

Yep, that appears to be true. I popped the link off again (I made them too short, obviously), the light came on, and this morning, despite the link still being unattached, the light DIDN'T come on. Goofy.

I was thinking about this and maybe the little plastic pieces are getting worn or something. because mine were a bear to get on and off. ?????
 

quattrotman

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This is such an awesome and informative thread...I was super confused about what to do with my links too but this cleared it up.
 
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KMeloney

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T -- Glad this helped.

Jimmy -- I cut and installed new links that measured almost 2-1/4" (without end caps). It's been a week now driving all of my normal routes, and the rods have not popped off. The truck is riding great, and no suspension light.

For me, I'm @ 1/4"-1/2" higher in the rear than front. I think this is perfect. There has to be SOME rake, in my opinion, or the illusion is that it's sagging in the rear (people don't realize that the back window's bottom edge is NOT parallel with the driver and passenger windows' sills, and that if you get the rear height even with the front, that rear window will be running downhill).

To address your other question about the link caps being tight, yes, mine are, too. That just goes to show that a 2" rod length is just too short for normal driving, and that I really must have torqued the crap out of it (just by normal driving) in order to pop it off. It just can't operate properly, geometry-wise, when it's that short. But a 1/4" more seems to make all the difference.

I haven't heard my compressor once at the new almost-2-1/4" length. I think I've got it dialed in now for good.

One more thing regarding the illusion of sagging in the rear when lowered: It's very possibly that anyone's side molding can be "off" from the factory, making it look more like it's sagging when it's really not. Also, the side steps can create a look like the front is higher by the way the leading edge of the steps gradually returns into the side of the truck. That swooping return makes that part of the step look higher than the rear sometimes...
 

2011Tahoe

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Well kirk, today i did what i didnt think i would do, i left my 2 5/8 link on the right side and installed the 3" link on the left. I only heard the compressor kick on when i fired it up and not anymore. So im happy with that. The left side is only about an 1/8-1/4 difference than the right. Im stoked with that. The rig to me now has the perfect stance. Rear is about 5/8- 3/4" higher than front. Looks really good.

So for anyone else reading- my setup is 11' LTZ with the bell-tech 2-3/4 drop without the spacers, left side link is set at 3" right side link is 2 5/8. So far so good.
 

NORCAL SS

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depends on the truck not all work like that

start with no spacers and start wtih 3 inch rods
 

2011Tahoe

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depends on the truck not all work like that

start with no spacers and start wtih 3 inch rods


Oh for sure, I agree. I was just letting others know exactly what i have so if they want to try it.

Tony are your links set up right at 3"? I thought they were different lengths also? Might have been someone else but i remember they were a vendor on here. J/w. I know yours is set up with different parts also.
 

NORCAL SS

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mine are at 3 and 2 7/8

all i know is mine corners like a beast thats what I care about.
 
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KMeloney

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all i know is mine corners like a beast thats what I care about.

Yours also has rear bar relocation hardware, right? Cornering is a different discussion than stance and ride.

Speaking of cornering, though, do you have to drill for the added hardware you installed? Or, do the brackets mount up to existing holes? If you DO have to drill, how many holes do you have to drill? And can everything be put back to stock without any issues?
 

2011Tahoe

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The left side is only about an 1/8-1/4 difference than the right.

Well I spoke a little too soon, it seems that after driving it for a week or so the left rear is still about a 1/2 to 5/8 lower then the RR. The compressor has only kicked on once and it was in my drive way(slightly sloped).

NorcallSS do i have to do all the extra goodies to get it within 1/8 of an inch like your caddy is?

Since the compressor isn't kicking on very much, I am not going to ruin the load leveler bags am I?

Sorry I am just a little OCD about this stupid Chevy Lean. My links now are set to 3" on LR and 2 5/8" RR W/O spacers. Also It seems to be rubbing on the rear inner fenderwells a little too much I know most of this has to do with wheel offset so i was just wondering if any of the guys running the GM 22" wheels knew what the offset was on them.
 

NORCAL SS

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if you measured the truck stock drivers side sits lower gas tank is on that side. Mine is 3/16s off from side to side.
 

2011Tahoe

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Do the links need to be straight up and down? Do i need to move the lower part of the link closer the the front of the vehicle in order for it to be completly vertical?

Nevermind i just saw that the air ride links are centered by a bracket and it is welded in place so you would not be able to slide them on the upper arm.
 
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