Fun you mentioned those ,I just noticed the driverside one is broken and the light is on! I would have never thought to go look in the car at those. I don't know when it broke so it's most likely the cause. Now to look up how to take the bulbs out.
Battery drain on a 99 Tahoe
- Thread starter djfive45
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It's starting to get dark here that's how I noticed
Hammer and chisel.
Hahahaha I unplugged them.
Or that. If there is no hammer involved, there is no fun.
See my #2 post to this thread. You and others have trained me to be aware of these little out of the way lights that cause these problems. Especially when it takes some time to drain down. Even old dogs like me can be taught new tricks. Good call.
97YukonNZ
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I'll have a spin on the wheel and say'
Maybe the makeup light in the sun visor mirror! If your model has those. The switch and cover wear so it switches its self on causing a drain.
97YukonNZ
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Doh!!I'll have a spin on the wheel and say'
Maybe the makeup light in the sun visor mirror! If your model has those. The switch and cover wear so it switches its self on causing a drain.
Just read everything and I was right and last to the table!!
Foof
The covers were broken on the side of the switch. I disconnected themI'll have a spin on the wheel and say'
Maybe the makeup light in the sun visor mirror! If your model has those. The switch and cover wear so it switches its self on causing a drain.
97YukonNZ
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Yes.
When I bought my 97 Yukon a few years ago it had had the same issue so the previous owner disconnected them
You said you're using a battery tender. Know this sounds weird, but it's happened to me twice. I had a battery tender on my 97 Tahoe and the battery went totally dead. Bought a new battery. Put the tender on my 2010 Express. It killed it in 2 days. I was able to recharge it with a different charger. Something to consider.
I appreciate learning from others experiences. I did learn something thank you for the help
Check the Body Control Module. This is a source of many power drains and intermittent electrical/electronic issues. Even ECU issues. The BCM controls the power distribution network. Sometimes removing and cleaning the contacts and harness connectors resolve many issues.
2008yukonxlslt
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I don’t always agree with Scotty but I used this method on a 97 civic and found several draws. The battery would go dead in about a week. The 1 ohm resistor method is great as you can hook up the shunt and monitor your voltage over time and the battery is still hooked up so all the modules stay powered. I checked it after an hour because this gives ample time for all the modules to go into sleep mode. At that point you should be down to somewhere less than 50 millivolt across the 1 ohm resistor which conveniently equals 50 milliamps. If you are substantially higher than that then start pulling fuses till you find the circuit responsible. My civic was the power door locks, fixed those and got it down to 35 milliamps and she’s fine now. here is the link to Scotty. Eric O at South Main Auto also did a great video on the instrument cluster, highly recommend checking that out if you are dealing with similar issue.
dmhscorpio
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I did the same dog and pony show on my 99 Tahoe 2 door.
As a certified electronics technician, I spent way too much time on this. In the end it turned out the ignition key was so worn it didn't always turn everything off. The engine would die, but leave a / some circuits hot. YMMV
2008yukonxlslt
Member
Oh wow!! Sometimes you just never know. That’s a great tip to check that first before moving on to fuses. I had a 66 wildcat that I could take the key right out of the dash without turning it off!!
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