Arnott rear air shocks w/ magnaride delete
- Thread starter olyelr
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olyelr
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Well, they seem like they work great but she was driving around with the stockers blown out for a while, so comparing against blown out shocks. They dont seem to ride any better than the stockers if memory serves me right, but its hard to tell.
I don’t believe they do based on when I’ve had OEM laying next to a set of Arnotts and compared.
Masonson
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I'm looking at the same option, but my wife wants it lowered as well. I wonder if i can replace my shocks with Arnott's and then buy a separate lowering kit as well without ruining the Arnott Shocks.
CMoore711
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You can.
I spoke with Arnott and eibach.
folks at Arnott we’re super nice but can’t give out too many details.
the folks at eibach said it’s a private label and possibly their black label which is a 46mm piston shock. So just shy of a 2 inch bodied shock.
im curious what the oem shock is, as it over heats so easy.
the shock is not rebuildable or tunable. Arnott use to use Bilstein and those shocks were tunable and possibly rebuildable (from my experience with Bilstein)
Arnott said the goal was oem sizing and Fitment, so shock body diameter was more likely decided on by oem specs, and probably uses the generic eibach valving for suv which is 70/30 I think.
folks at Arnott we’re super nice but can’t give out too many details.
the folks at eibach said it’s a private label and possibly their black label which is a 46mm piston shock. So just shy of a 2 inch bodied shock.
im curious what the oem shock is, as it over heats so easy.
the shock is not rebuildable or tunable. Arnott use to use Bilstein and those shocks were tunable and possibly rebuildable (from my experience with Bilstein)
Arnott said the goal was oem sizing and Fitment, so shock body diameter was more likely decided on by oem specs, and probably uses the generic eibach valving for suv which is 70/30 I think.
One last thing. The oem mrc shock is not gas charged according to acdelco online specs.
this would explain crappy riding and overheating. Cavitation. Happens on a shock with less than 80 psi
so if the arnott uses a gas charged shock, that alone would cure the chattering found on crappy streets...
this would explain crappy riding and overheating. Cavitation. Happens on a shock with less than 80 psi
so if the arnott uses a gas charged shock, that alone would cure the chattering found on crappy streets...
What is this chattering you are mentioning. I am fighting a battle with a sound that is coming from my rear end with Beltech 5323 springs and 1" spacer. Ride is excellent but the sound is horrible. The sound makes me feel like people who hear think I have a broken car or cheap setup and is embarrassing. I like the auto leveling concept but this sound sucks.
Anyone who has switched to these care to provide a review on comfort and handling now thats its been a bit?
Wife and I are debating trading in our 15i yukon denali xl for a..... toyota sienna or honda odyssey..... but if we dont, these MRC's are coming off.
Wife and I are debating trading in our 15i yukon denali xl for a..... toyota sienna or honda odyssey..... but if we dont, these MRC's are coming off.
I did swap the maganrides out for the rear Arnotts on our 2015 Denali XL. They look to be a quality piece and they have improved the ride over the very leaky magnarides. My only desire is that they absorbed more of the harsh bumps. Highway driving is very comfortable and suspension absorbs the expansion joints in the road very nicely. Air suspension works with the shocks and their weren't any issues with any of the connectors. I went with new KYB strut/spring assemblies in the front with Xineering resistors. There are other options if you don't want to go with the plug and play of the Arnotts.
Yea... for me it was either the ease of the plug and play Arnotts and running both front and rear...
... or going with an ADS racing set up and xingeneering stuff, and try to get Firestone in spring airbags to work for the rear.
the arnotts use a 1.97 inch eibach shock that’s no better or worse than the kyb, bilstein, blah blah blah...
so that was the idea behind going that route vs piecing together parts.
ease and laziness on my part.
but if the shocks won’t handle the weight (like the mrc cant) then it’s a 2.5 ads for sure
... or going with an ADS racing set up and xingeneering stuff, and try to get Firestone in spring airbags to work for the rear.
the arnotts use a 1.97 inch eibach shock that’s no better or worse than the kyb, bilstein, blah blah blah...
so that was the idea behind going that route vs piecing together parts.
ease and laziness on my part.
but if the shocks won’t handle the weight (like the mrc cant) then it’s a 2.5 ads for sure
Russ Giles
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I installed the Arnott Front struts (SK-3354) and rear shock (AS-3066) my '15 Y XL Denali in Dec. Magn-aride was stiff and could not roll over parking lot speed bumps without many bounces and rocking. Pot holes would shake your bones. was also saging as it had over 130k miles
Arnott/Eibachs have been great for the 3,500 miles we have put on
fit was perfect, plugged in to the electronics using the OEM connector, No codes so far. rear air compressor/leveling works as before.
front wheel well height is now 36.5" rear is 38"
ride is smoother and more connected to the road. many long trips and each time my wife and I say this was worth the investment.
Dirt road are a breeze now, feels like an offroad vehicle with the eibach tuning.
Bought the rears through rockauto.com the fronts from AutoZone as everyone was out of stock/backorder on the front struts except Autozone. they had a higher list price but offered a discount coupon (online) that made the price the same as rockauto
Arnott/Eibachs have been great for the 3,500 miles we have put on
fit was perfect, plugged in to the electronics using the OEM connector, No codes so far. rear air compressor/leveling works as before.
front wheel well height is now 36.5" rear is 38"
ride is smoother and more connected to the road. many long trips and each time my wife and I say this was worth the investment.
Dirt road are a breeze now, feels like an offroad vehicle with the eibach tuning.
Bought the rears through rockauto.com the fronts from AutoZone as everyone was out of stock/backorder on the front struts except Autozone. they had a higher list price but offered a discount coupon (online) that made the price the same as rockauto
My front passenger and both rears were leaking pretty bad. Which is odd... I was under there 2 weeks ago taking measurements to see about running 3.0 coilovers and 3.0 piggyback shocks.
anyways, I had a decent talk with a friend at King. At the end of the day, a truck this heavy, with this short of travel, is going to cook even a 3.0 shock when run at 30 mph on washboard and small bumps for 2hrs straight. So it’s not worth it.
So I just said screw it, called Arnott and they said they are about 3 weeks back ordered on all new sales. So, I called summit racing and placed an order. Front and rear inbound.
Quick question, since the ball joints are not replaceable independently, and they are often torn during removal if they have some age on them:
are you guys replacing the upper control arm when doing shock replacements? Any recommendations on a good arm other than stock?
rough country makes a forged arm with a high angle balljoint... and it’s not too expensive... but... I don’t know if they make it for aluminum arm trucks (apparently out knuckle upper ball joint taper is different than steel arm trucks)
anyways, I had a decent talk with a friend at King. At the end of the day, a truck this heavy, with this short of travel, is going to cook even a 3.0 shock when run at 30 mph on washboard and small bumps for 2hrs straight. So it’s not worth it.
So I just said screw it, called Arnott and they said they are about 3 weeks back ordered on all new sales. So, I called summit racing and placed an order. Front and rear inbound.
Quick question, since the ball joints are not replaceable independently, and they are often torn during removal if they have some age on them:
are you guys replacing the upper control arm when doing shock replacements? Any recommendations on a good arm other than stock?
rough country makes a forged arm with a high angle balljoint... and it’s not too expensive... but... I don’t know if they make it for aluminum arm trucks (apparently out knuckle upper ball joint taper is different than steel arm trucks)
The Arnott fronts are 1/2 inch longer than the oem 2015 Yukon xl Denali.
Don’t know if the spring rates are different. Knowing eibach then yes.
the front is Definitly leveled now.
3 of my shocks had gushed oil but hadn’t locked up... so these obviously ride better.
no idea on a side by side. But I’ll tell you this much.
They won’t chatter in 80° heat like the crappy mrc.
Don’t know if the spring rates are different. Knowing eibach then yes.
the front is Definitly leveled now.
3 of my shocks had gushed oil but hadn’t locked up... so these obviously ride better.
no idea on a side by side. But I’ll tell you this much.
They won’t chatter in 80° heat like the crappy mrc.
Any feedback on what it was for noise. Over expansion joints our 2015 Denali XL makes a loud noise that comes from the rear suspension.
What set up did you use to delete the front magnaride?
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olyelr
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Xineering’s kit.
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