2012 Yukon Denali - Failed Cats - Looking for Solutions

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

usmcskeeter

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 3, 2023
Posts
2
Reaction score
2
The Vehicle:
2012 Yukon Denali XL w/ 6.2 L Flex Fuel

The Problem:
One or both of the catalytic converters on my wife's Yukon Denali has failed to the point that the vehicle would not stay running and would make a terrible squealing sound like the belts were slipping. Codes 0420 & 0430 appeared and back pressure testing proved there was a restriction between the main cats and the 3rd cat. In the test hole, I even found debris. I have no doubt that a piece of the cat is lodged in the Y-pipe. More information in "Background" following my question.

The Question:
I've looked into replacing the entire Cat System and I'm not finding much for the 6.2l version. I can find a bunch for the 5.3L for $500, but when it comes to the 6.2l, I can only find a $1600 option from Magnaflow and a $2500 option from GM. Are there other suppliers out there that sell a replacement cat system? What are the thoughts on what I should do? Vehicle is paid off, but I've just stuck $5K into it between new tires, AFM kit, air suspension, etc. I don't know that I could stomach another $1500 for a vehicle with 200K miles and 10yrs old, but it is still on good condition. I also live in a state without emission testing, so I know I could hollow out the cats, but I don't want to have issues with fuel management, etc. I'm not into performance tuning or exhaust sounds, so I would rather try to keep it stock.

Background:
Around 150K miles I started noticing some oil consumption, lower MPG, and tapping noise coming from the engine - all signs were pointing to the AFM. To try and prevent ripping into the engine, I plugged in an OBD II disabler and it seemed to relieve the symptoms. 50K miles later, one of the few times I drove the Yukon, I noticed it was running rough. I pulled the disabler out to hook up my scan tool and error codes and warning lights started displaying. It was like the disabler was impacting the ability for the ECU to report codes. Between work and the wife getting a new vehicle, the Yukon sat parked for nearly a year.

When I found time recently, I dug into the engine and I found the #1 cylinder to have a stuck valve. I did a Texas Speed AFM Delete and got the ECU flashed to essentially stock configurations (no performance tunes or cams). Yukon drove good after this and so I decided to fix a few things like new tires, air suspension, etc.

After driving the vehicle around for a while, I noticed that the MPGs were still low, there was a rattle coming from a heat shield, low power when towing or accelerating, and then some O2 error codes. I figured I had bad fuel (as most of this started almost immediately after filling up at a tiny gas station), so I ran some BG fuel treatment through the vehicle. Before I could get through an entire tank of treated fuel, I lost engine power going down the highway and when pulling off to the shoulder, the Yukon stalled out and would not stay running. There also was a loud squeal like the belts were slipping. Luckily I was only a mile from home and towed it into the driveway. I pulled all the belts off, but the squeal was still there and the vehicle would not stay running. Then I notice a hissing noise when the engine would stall out and it made me think it was building up too much exhaust pressure. Apparently the AFM had failed for a while and I am suspecting that this poisoned the cats to the point that one or both failed and some of the cat material let loose and caused an obstruction in the Y-pipe as back pressure testing the exhaust system proved this to be the case and what leads me to my question above.
 
Last edited:

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,612
Reaction score
13,331
Location
Richmond, VA
The Vehicle:
2012 Yukon Denali XL w/ 6.2 L Flex Fuel

The Problem:
One or both of the catalytic converters on my wife's Yukon Denali has failed to the point that the vehicle would not stay running and would make a terrible squealing sound like the belts were slipping. Codes 0420 & 0430 appeared and back pressure testing proved there was a restriction between the main cats and the 3rd cat. In the test hole, I even found debris. I have no doubt that a piece of the cat is lodged in the Y-pipe. More information in "Background" following my question.

The Question:
I've looked into replacing the entire Cat System and I'm not finding much for the 6.2l version. I can find a bunch for the 5.3L for $500, but when it comes to the 6.2l, I can only find a $1600 option from Magnaflow and a $2500 option from GM. Are there other suppliers out there that sell a replacement cat system? What are the thoughts on what I should do? Vehicle is paid off, but I've just stuck $5K into it between new tires, AFM kit, air suspension, etc. I don't know that I could stomach another $1500 for a vehicle with 200K miles and 10yrs old, but it is still on good condition. I also live in a state without emission testing, so I know I could hollow out the cats, but I don't want to have issues with fuel management, etc. I'm not into performance tuning or exhaust sounds, so I would rather try to keep it stock.

Background:
Around 150K miles I started noticing some oil consumption, lower MPG, and tapping noise coming from the engine - all signs were pointing to the AFM. To try and prevent ripping into the engine, I plugged in an OBD II disabler and it seemed to relieve the symptoms. 50K miles later, one of the few times I drove the Yukon, I noticed it was running rough. I pulled the disabler out to hook up my scan tool and error codes and warning lights started displaying. It was like the disabler was impacting the ability for the ECU to report codes. Between work and the wife getting a new vehicle, the Yukon sat parked for nearly a year.

When I found time recently, I dug into the engine and I found the #1 cylinder to have a stuck valve. I did a Texas Speed AFM Delete and got the ECU flashed to essentially stock configurations (no performance tunes or cams). Yukon drove good after this and so I decided to fix a few things like new tires, air suspension, etc.

After driving the vehicle around for a while, I noticed that the MPGs were still low, there was a rattle coming from a heat shield, low power when towing or accelerating, and then some O2 error codes. I figured I had bad fuel (as most of this started almost immediately after filling up at a tiny gas station), so I ran some BG fuel treatment through the vehicle. Before I could get through an entire tank of treated fuel, I lost engine power going down the highway and when pulling off to the shoulder, the Yukon stalled out and would not stay running. There also was a loud squeal like the belts were slipping. Luckily I was only a mile from home and towed it into the driveway. I pulled all the belts off, but the squeal was still there and the vehicle would not stay running. Then I notice a hissing noise when the engine would stall out and it made me think it was building up too much exhaust pressure. Apparently the AFM had failed for a while and I am suspecting that this poisoned the cats to the point that one or both failed and some of the cat material let loose and caused an obstruction in the Y-pipe as back pressure testing the exhaust system proved this to be the case and what leads me to my question above.
If it's in great shape, you've already addressed the primary killer of these trucks with the AFM delete. I'd say it's worth the investment and will restore its resale value also.

Also, it's definitely possible to hollow out the cats and have the rear O2 sensors tuned out, but the downside is the awful exhaust smell that comes with deleting the cats. I, for one, can't stand it.
 
OP
OP
U

usmcskeeter

TYF Newbie
Joined
Jan 3, 2023
Posts
2
Reaction score
2
If it's in great shape, you've already addressed the primary killer of these trucks with the AFM delete. I'd say it's worth the investment and will restore its resale value also.

Also, it's definitely possible to hollow out the cats and have the rear O2 sensors tuned out, but the downside is the awful exhaust smell that comes with deleting the cats. I, for one, can't stand it.
Thanks for the response - you are probably right and I have heard about the exhaust smell. More than anything, I was hoping that someone would have a "secret" supplier that could source cats for cheaper than Magnaflow, but I guess that's what I will have to do.
 

Geotrash

Dave
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2018
Posts
5,612
Reaction score
13,331
Location
Richmond, VA
Thanks for the response - you are probably right and I have heard about the exhaust smell. More than anything, I was hoping that someone would have a "secret" supplier that could source cats for cheaper than Magnaflow, but I guess that's what I will have to do.
If you can tolerate a couple of weeks of downtime, one option is to have Davico rebuild your existing cats. Rock Auto sells this service and it's more affordable. I don't know anyone who's done it but it might be worth a try. Or for a little more, you can buy new drop-in replacements from another Davico reseller.

I have a new-build Davico converter in my LR2 that I bought from Rockauto as a drop-in replacement and it's been working great for 4 years and 40K miles now.

 

91RS

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2009
Posts
2,479
Reaction score
1,838
Location
GA
I would go OEM only because aftermarket cats very often aren’t good enough and will still set the low efficiency codes. Another thing to keep in mind is aftermarket cats will not meet the core requirement when buying OEM cats so if you try aftermarket and it doesn’t work the OEMs will cost you a lot more.
 

Caddylack

Full Access Member
Joined
May 12, 2022
Posts
191
Reaction score
196
I also live in a state without emission testing, so I know I could hollow out the cats, but I don't want to have issues with fuel management, etc. I'm not into performance tuning or exhaust sounds, so I would rather try to keep it stock.
You will not have to worry about fuel management if you turn off the secondary o2 sensors. That is the only tuning that would be required. At the same time, you might consider asking for a MPG tune.

The exhaust would still be quiet if you leave the OEM muffler and resonator.

I would highly recommend getting all 3 cats removed and having straight pipe welded in (as opposed to hollowing). Your cats are probably worth at least $100 each, depending on your state. You can sell your cats to pay for the whole job.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
129,211
Posts
1,812,248
Members
92,313
Latest member
kylesimmons
Top