Anyone use a micro-torch for bolt removal?

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Cajun Jamie

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When I did my brakes not long ago I used loc-tite red on the big bolts. Was thinking if I was ever traveling and needed to get a bolt off with red, I'd need some heat. At home I used a heat gun, don't have a bottle torch. Was thinking of getting a small one to keep in the tool box. Anyone ever use one of these or recommend one? Just seems easier to pack than a bottle torch.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=portable+butane+torch&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...-up-rusted-or-seized-parts-by-timothy-charlet
 
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Cajun Jamie

Cajun Jamie

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swathdiver

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When I did my brakes not long ago I used loc-tite red on the big bolts. Was thinking if I was ever traveling and needed to get a bolt off with red, I'd need some heat. At home I used a heat gun, don't have a bottle torch. Was thinking of getting a small one to keep in the tool box. Anyone ever use one of these or recommend one? Just seems easier to pack than a bottle torch.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=portable+butane+torch&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

https://www.yourmechanic.com/articl...-up-rusted-or-seized-parts-by-timothy-charlet

I used a propane (blue bottle) torch the other day for about 5 minutes on the brake rotor bolt and it didn't do anything. That's when I pounded the T30 into the screw and used a breaker bar on it. Would have done it sooner but forgot about the T30 with the 3/8 drive until rummaging around a tool drawer.
 
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Cajun Jamie

Cajun Jamie

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I used a propane (blue bottle) torch the other day for about 5 minutes on the brake rotor bolt and it didn't do anything. That's when I pounded the T30 into the screw and used a breaker bar on it. Would have done it sooner but forgot about the T30 with the 3/8 drive until rummaging around a tool drawer.

I've got an 18-inch breaker bar and could not budge the brake bolt. After 3-4 minutes with the heat gun it loosened. I'm going to get the yellow bottle and also a piece of pipe to extend my breaker bar. My breaker bar also has a swivel head which helps in tight spots, but takes away some power, in my opinion.
 

PG01

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I've got an 18-inch breaker bar and could not budge the brake bolt. After 3-4 minutes with the heat gun it loosened. I'm going to get the yellow bottle and also a piece of pipe to extend my breaker bar. My breaker bar also has a swivel head which helps in tight spots, but takes away some power, in my opinion.
You need a 2’ pipe on the end of that 18” bar and they move fine. Done it many times.
 

SnowDrifter

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You need a 2’ pipe on the end of that 18” bar and they move fine. Done it many times.
My 2 cents:

Most folks wrench wrong. See it all the time, someone's struggling with a tight bolt, they're getting ready to pull their hair out cause they can't bust the darn thing free. I take a look at what they're doing and they've positioned themselves such that their body leverage isn't helping.

You can get a lot more force on something by pulling than from pushing. And by lifting than from hanging.

Your ratchet rotates 360 degrees. Find a position, brace one arm against the thing you're trying to loosen, then grab the wrench with your other arm and pull. I rarely have an issue getting caliper bolts and whatnot loose with my standard 12" ratchet. Though I have a big 25" ratchet I use if something's ungodly tight. Rough estimation of how much torque I can put to that is in the 500ftlb range. If your fastener isn't coming off with that much force, you're not doing it on the side of the road anyway.
 

PG01

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My 2 cents:

Most folks wrench wrong. See it all the time, someone's struggling with a tight bolt, they're getting ready to pull their hair out cause they can't bust the darn thing free. I take a look at what they're doing and they've positioned themselves such that their body leverage isn't helping.

You can get a lot more force on something by pulling than from pushing. And by lifting than from hanging.

Your ratchet rotates 360 degrees. Find a position, brace one arm against the thing you're trying to loosen, then grab the wrench with your other arm and pull. I rarely have an issue getting caliper bolts and whatnot loose with my standard 12" ratchet. Though I have a big 25" ratchet I use if something's ungodly tight. Rough estimation of how much torque I can put to that is in the 500ftlb range. If your fastener isn't coming off with that much force, you're not doing it on the side of the road anyway.
I agree and do exactly what you’ve described but for the caliper ‘bracket’ bolts that have factory lock-tight on them, i cut the wheel hard, put my ratchet and socket on the bolt, set it at a 2-3 o’clock postion, grab my breaker bar and use 2 fingers to push the bar down to break it loose, then just a normal ratchet swing. Every one has their own methods and this has never failed for me. :)
 

Erickk120

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I've made the mistake of using red loctite in the brake bracket bolts before, I take whatever wrench fits and tap it with my 4 lbs mini sledge hammer til it loosens it. Its still tight after that, so I just finish it with an extension ratchet.
 

Doubeleive

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:popcorn:

breaker.jpg
 

swathdiver

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I've got an 18-inch breaker bar and could not budge the brake bolt.
Me too, so I went with a 24" breaker bar and now for the most part they all come loose. I'm nowhere near as strong as I once was, nor as enduring. Putting the car back together yesterday put me in bed for sixteen hours!
 

01FormulaTA

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I use a Bernzomatic Torch Trigger with Map Gas (burns hotter than propane) and it works wonders on stubborn bolts....just pay attention to what you are heating

 
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Cajun Jamie

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Replacing a Wheel Hub on a RWD. Couple things I learned today watching a few YouTube videos. 1) I have a RWD and does not have the 35mm axle bolt to remove. When I watched the 1st video, it did not specify it was a 4x4. The second video I watched with a RWD seemed much better, not having to deal with an axle bolt (I'm thinking side of the road and no power tools). 2) Is it possible to easily remove the brake calipers by only removing the 18mm bolts and not the smaller Torx slide pins? The video I watched they used the T55 torx to first remove the slides, then removed the pads and 18mm bolts, before finally removing the 3 hub bolts. If I ever get caught in a pinch, I want to do the repair as quickly and efficiently as possible.
 

PG01

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Replacing a Wheel Hub on a RWD. Couple things I learned today watching a few YouTube videos. 1) I have a RWD and does not have the 35mm axle bolt to remove. When I watched the 1st video, it did not specify it was a 4x4. The second video I watched with a RWD seemed much better, not having to deal with an axle bolt (I'm thinking side of the road and no power tools). 2) Is it possible to easily remove the brake calipers by only removing the 18mm bolts and not the smaller Torx slide pins? The video I watched they used the T55 torx to first remove the slides, then removed the pads and 18mm bolts, before finally removing the 3 hub bolts. If I ever get caught in a pinch, I want to do the repair as quickly and efficiently as possible.
Yup, you can pull the bracket bolts and yank the whole thing in 1 piece.
 

swathdiver

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Yup, you can pull the bracket bolts and yank the whole thing in 1 piece.

I rebuilt the brackets (new boots) and installed the pads on my kitchen table. The new slides held onto the pads in both directions and also used the new drag reduction clips. Then after the rotors went on, put the whole bracket on with the pads and hardware and slipped the caliper over them. Worked great.
 

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