Time for a tune up I guess.

[Steve Waddington]

So, I was driving to the car wash, and my check engine light started flashing. Not just 'on'...but flashing on and off. Never did that before. So I immediately pulled over and turned it off and popped the hood. All looked fine...so I started it up again and it was still flashing, but the Tahoe was running just fine. Turned it off and grabbed my little code reader. It gave me the code of P0300. I erased the code, drove the Tahoe for the next couple of days, but the check engine never came back on, and it's still running fine! So I guess it was just an odd glitch. But it got me thinking...
I bought this 2003 Tahoe LT...5.3, 2WD, stock, in 2018 with 162k miles on it. It now has just over 180K miles. That's 18k in 7 years, or 2.5K per year. And almost all of that mileage was pre-covid.

ANYWAY...I've never given it a tune up, and I don't know how long before I bought it if it ever had a tune-up. So, I think its time. I'd like to stay with the original parts if possible.

However, I'm looking online for a tune-up kit, and I see that there's one, on eBay, labeled AC Delco...has the round coils, the wires and the plugs. But I've heard so many stories about fake stuff from China, I'm just not sure where to order the parts from. Where do you guys get the authentic tune up parts from?

And where do I get (and exactly what is it called) the special tool needed to pull the sparkplug wires with the heat shields, so that I don't ruin the heat shields?

Looks like a pretty easy, straightforward job...easier than last week when I had to replace the oil pressure sensor from hell...what a PITA THAT was!

Thanks!

 

[PPV_2018]

Just get ac/delco wire kit & plugs from rockauto and you’ll be ready to roll.

You can use boot puller pliers for the heat shields but I’ve used all sorts of pliers over the years to get the boots off. If you get genuine ac/delco wire kit they usually include new heat shields, so ruining the old ones is a non-issue anyways.

And i know some here don’t agree, but do not change the coils. Just plugs and wires. If a coil starts giving you trouble down the line replace that one with a new one, but preventative maintenance not needed for the coils.

 

[Fless]

Just get ac/delco wire kit & plugs from rockauto and you’ll be ready to roll.

You can use boot puller pliers for the heat shields but I’ve used all sorts of pliers over the years to get the boots off. If you get genuine ac/delco wire kit they usually include new heat shields, so ruining the old ones is a non-issue anyways.

And i know some here don’t agree, but do not change the coils. Just plugs and wires. If a coil starts giving you trouble down the line replace that one with a new one, but preventative maintenance not needed for the coils.

Agree that the coils don't need to be proactively changed. Save your money for when one goes bad, if it ever does. I'd probably pull a spark plug or two to see what condition they're in, and what brand and part number. If they were changed with good parts at 100k like they should have been, and the engine is in good shape, they'll likely be good for a while yet.

The link below will take you to a thread about the spark plug shields (in post #17 by @Doubeleive) and access to #8 plug by @Rocket Man. Shields should come off without much damage.

re-rebuild findings - 310K mi. spark plug

so as im sure a handful of you know - my gen 1 6L80 finally got tired enough to throw in the towel & so while i have taken on my first ever trans rebuild/overhaul - of which im taking an over abundance of caution with & patience with myself - i’ve also decided to tend to some parts that REALLY...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

EDIT: if it hasn't been done recently, or if either of the cam or crank sensors have been replaced, have a CASE relearn done just to rule it out. It can be the cause of the mysterious P0300 code. You can also view the individual cylinder misfires with a good scanner, and that might lead you to the cause.

 

[Doubeleive]

So, I was driving to the car wash, and my check engine light started flashing. Not just 'on'...but flashing on and off. Never did that before. So I immediately pulled over and turned it off and popped the hood. All looked fine...so I started it up again and it was still flashing, but the Tahoe was running just fine. Turned it off and grabbed my little code reader. It gave me the code of P0300. I erased the code, drove the Tahoe for the next couple of days, but the check engine never came back on, and it's still running fine! So I guess it was just an odd glitch. But it got me thinking...
I bought this 2003 Tahoe LT...5.3, 2WD, stock, in 2018 with 162k miles on it. It now has just over 180K miles. That's 18k in 7 years, or 2.5K per year. And almost all of that mileage was pre-covid.

ANYWAY...I've never given it a tune up, and I don't know how long before I bought it if it ever had a tune-up. So, I think its time. I'd like to stay with the original parts if possible.

However, I'm looking online for a tune-up kit, and I see that there's one, on eBay, labeled AC Delco...has the round coils, the wires and the plugs. But I've heard so many stories about fake stuff from China, I'm just not sure where to order the parts from. Where do you guys get the authentic tune up parts from?

And where do I get (and exactly what is it called) the special tool needed to pull the sparkplug wires with the heat shields, so that I don't ruin the heat shields?

Looks like a pretty easy, straightforward job...easier than last week when I had to replace the oil pressure sensor from hell...what a PITA THAT was!

Thanks!

160k on these is where your going to want to start being proactive with repairs
that mileage or more is where certain critical things will begin to give up the ghost
at minimum when you do the plugs & wires, take the time to also replace the air filter, clean the maf & throttle body.
and if the 02 sensors are original they are well past there rated lifetime (100k)
there are other things you will want to pay attention to as well going forward like wheel hubs, fuel pump, fuel evap equipment, knock sensors, water pump.
not saying run out and replace them just know those parts are known to begin to give up the ghost around 160k+
if it snowballs on you just know that once the culprits are attended too you should be good to go for a good long time

 

[strutaeng]

I'll also vote you keep your original coils. They are good quality and hardly ever go out. My 06 suburban has like 277k and they are the original as far as I know.

Probably should do further diagnostics for that flashing CEL light. That means there's a misfire and driving like that for extended time can cause damage to your catalytic converters. I've had misfires from loose spark plug wires before so it could be something simple.

But if you haven't changed them, AC Delco plugs/wires, clean/replace air filter, clean MAF sensor...I think that's a good start.

 

[Doubeleive]

So, I was driving to the car wash, and my check engine light started flashing. Not just 'on'...but flashing on and off. Never did that before. So I immediately pulled over and turned it off and popped the hood. All looked fine...so I started it up again and it was still flashing, but the Tahoe was running just fine. Turned it off and grabbed my little code reader. It gave me the code of P0300. I erased the code, drove the Tahoe for the next couple of days, but the check engine never came back on, and it's still running fine! So I guess it was just an odd glitch. But it got me thinking...
I bought this 2003 Tahoe LT...5.3, 2WD, stock, in 2018 with 162k miles on it. It now has just over 180K miles. That's 18k in 7 years, or 2.5K per year. And almost all of that mileage was pre-covid.

ANYWAY...I've never given it a tune up, and I don't know how long before I bought it if it ever had a tune-up. So, I think its time. I'd like to stay with the original parts if possible.

However, I'm looking online for a tune-up kit, and I see that there's one, on eBay, labeled AC Delco...has the round coils, the wires and the plugs. But I've heard so many stories about fake stuff from China, I'm just not sure where to order the parts from. Where do you guys get the authentic tune up parts from?

And where do I get (and exactly what is it called) the special tool needed to pull the sparkplug wires with the heat shields, so that I don't ruin the heat shields?

Looks like a pretty easy, straightforward job...easier than last week when I had to replace the oil pressure sensor from hell...what a PITA THAT was!

Thanks!

These right here will be your best friend, a couple decades ago they used to sell them as a 3 piece set, now it is 2 piece and single piece
I bought mine probably in the early 90's still use them all the time, especially the 1st one

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/plier-sets/11-in-45-long-reach-pliers-57790.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/plier-sets/16-in-long-reach-pliers-set-2-piece-64082.html

 

[Marky Dissod]

Agree that the coils don't need to be proactively changed. Save your money for when one goes bad, if it ever does.

Technically agree with the above, except that the coils should be proactively BOUGHT -
ain't nothing getting cheaper anytime soon. Save them for when they finally do get weak.

 

[Doubeleive]

Technically agree with the above, except that the coils should be proactively BOUGHT -
ain't nothing getting cheaper anytime soon. Save them for when they finally do get weak.

That's what I'm scared of I'm going to pay off this debt I have over the next couple of years and then prices will be so high I still won't have any money

 

[Steve Waddington]

160k on these is where your going to want to start being proactive with repairs
that mileage or more is where certain critical things will begin to give up the ghost
at minimum when you do the plugs & wires, take the time to also replace the air filter, clean the maf & throttle body.
and if the 02 sensors are original they are well past there rated lifetime (100k)
there are other things you will want to pay attention to as well going forward like wheel hubs, fuel pump, fuel evap equipment, knock sensors, water pump.
not saying run out and replace them just know those parts are known to begin to give up the ghost around 160k+
if it snowballs on you just know that once the culprits are attended too you should be good to go for a good long time

The day after I bought my Tahoe, the fuel pump went out, so I had that, and the fuel filter, replaced. I also replaced my air filter with a K&N. Since then, I've replaced the 02 sensors, and all the 3 fuel evap parts that kept sending codes, cleaned the MAF and throttle body, replaced the ac compressor and idler pulley and belt, replaced the battery and alternator and whatever that little sensor thing is right over your head when you're driving. Also replaced the entire instrument cluster and just recently replaced the oil pressure sensor. But somehow the coils, plugs, and wires have escaped my attention til now.

 

[Doubeleive]

The day after I bought my Tahoe, the fuel pump went out, so I had that, and the fuel filter, replaced. I also replaced my air filter with a K&N. Since then, I've replaced the 02 sensors, and all the 3 fuel evap parts that kept sending codes, cleaned the MAF and throttle body, replaced the ac compressor and idler pulley and belt, replaced the battery and alternator and whatever that little sensor thing is right over your head when you're driving. Also replaced the entire instrument cluster and just recently replaced the oil pressure sensor. But somehow the coils, plugs, and wires have escaped my attention til now.

yep those things as well. that's why people tend to dump them at about 160k they don't want to maintain them for relatively low cost, but will go drop 100k on a new one. That has always boggled my mind.....
i put 324k on my 800 and then after wanting a 900 for years finally bought a used one at a reasonable price, should have kept the 800 but it went on to a new home saw it around town for a couple more years but haven't seen it in a while now.

 

[Steve Waddington]

Yeah, it seems crazy to me too! I wouldn't want a newer one!

This 2WD '03 has relatively low mileage, no rust (Calif truck, so no surprise there), no damage anywhere. I bought it from the brother of the original owner...it's an LT so it has the heated leather seats, 6 CD Bose system, sun/moon roof, third row seats (but I took 'em out and got a cargo cover thing), premium ride pkg, and whatever else the LT has. And it's all original, except they removed the running boards (I would have anyway! I'm 6;5" and they just get in the way!) and removed all the badging. Still has the original wheels.

I added a backup camera and a CarPlay system that integrates my iphone and all that, and runs through the stock Bose system. Retrofitted a cabin air filter. Everything else just normal maintenance stuff.

And back in 2018 I only paid 3600.00 for it. So yeah, over the years I've had to replace a few things, but well worth it in my opinion.

 

[Steve Waddington]

Rock Auto shows these sparkplugs for my 03...ACDELCO 41962
And these wires...ACDELCO 9748GG

The plugs are double-platinum. The chart shows that iridium is actually a better plug for performance and mileage, but Rock Auto doesn't list one for my vehicle? And the wires don't come with heat shields. Am I missing something?

 

[Steve Waddington]

Also...thanks to all the help I receive here...I paid to be a supporting member...but I don't see the banner on my profile. I guess it takes awhile to update?

 

[PPV_2018]

apparently ac/delco or GM genuine does not include the heat shields in the wire packs for your vintage truck.

They can be had for a hefty 4.59 /each (generic brand can be had much cheaper) .

RA does have iridium plugs for your truck, but they aren’t delco. Probably because double plats were OE I’m guessing.

 

[Fless]

OE were iridium, but GM changed its recommendation later on to dual platinum. Read the thread linked below.

Another Spark Plug Thread

Going a bit cross eyed trying to figure out which plugs to get. ACDelco has a nice rebate right now, but it looks like they don't make the original iridium plugs for my truck anymore. The manual says 41-974, but when searching that, I get cross referenced to 41-162, but I also see people talking...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[Fless]

Also...thanks to all the help I receive here...I paid to be a supporting member...but I don't see the banner on my profile. I guess it takes awhile to update?

At the very bottom of the browser page there is a link "Contact us." Use that and state your case.

 

[Mudsport96]

Technically agree with the above, except that the coils should be proactively BOUGHT -
ain't nothing getting cheaper anytime soon. Save them for when they finally do get weak.

I got 2 sets at the junkyard. Picked them from a couple trucks that were T-bo ned. You know they drove to the sight of the accident, so the odds they are good are pretty good.
Used one coil for the Tahoe a couple years ago. I think number 8 went bad, maybe number 6. Popped the used one on and away I went. Best 30 bucks spent on this thing. The Silverado has 422k on the originals. Knock on wood.

 

[Griffin]

Also...thanks to all the help I receive here...I paid to be a supporting member...but I don't see the banner on my profile. I guess it takes awhile to update?

Got you squared away. For some reason it doesn't automatically change on some members, but you are good now. Sorry for the inconvenience

 

[Tonimus]

I got 2 sets at the junkyard. Picked them from a couple trucks that were T-bo ned. You know they drove to the sight of the accident, so the odds they are good are pretty good.
Used one coil for the Tahoe a couple years ago. I think number 8 went bad, maybe number 6. Popped the used one on and away I went. Best 30 bucks spent on this thing. The Silverado has 422k on the originals. Knock on wood.

Junkyard is a great source for these. If you pull a full set on a bracket, you may even get lucky and only have to pay for the unit instead of individual coils. If you're going scrapping, grab an OEM MAF while you're there. Just paid $20 for one because mine kicked a code. Cleaned it and never came back, but now I've got a spare.

Most 20 year old OEM stuff is still better than a lot of modern replacements.

 

[Tonimus]

Also, something I forgot to mention, you can get random cylinder misfire with sticky fuel injectors, too. Use your scan tool to check fuel trims. If you can't it certainly wouldn't hurt to run a can of seafoam through the fuel tank.