Anti seize on spark plugs?

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OR VietVet

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I have never used a torque wrench on spark plugs, an old mechanic once told me the trick to seating them. When you thread them in at some point you will make contact with the crush washer, rotational resistance will go up slightly for about 1 revolution until the crush washer is "Crushed" and at that point just a nice snug and you are good to go. Never had spark plugs come loose on me. I have however seen "torqued" spark plugs sitting there loose and upon tightening the crush washer was not seated all the way.
Most plugs now days, do not have crush washers.
 

West 1

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I always use it on aluminum heads for the spark plug install. I always make sure the plugs and heads are the same temperature on install.

If the head is warm and the plugs cold you will get false over torque on install and cause locked spark plugs.

If you are in a hurry with plug install and a hot engine it is not a problem. You screw the plugs in till almost snug and back off a 1/4 turn. Wait a few minutes for the heat to transfer from the head to the spark plugs as you do the plug installs then go back and tighten them all once all are installed. A little time allows the plugs and heads to reach similar temperature avoiding this issue.
 

swathdiver

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I was told this happens because I didn't put anti seize in the plugs, however, the ngk recommendations say to install them dry, as anti seize may affect the torque settings...

The plating on the plug threads is a form of anti-seize compound and that's why you're not supposed to use it according to GM.

Yours got stuck because they were probably on there too long or water got in there and didn't have a chance to evaporate before getting stuck.
 

waveryd

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I have read all of the manufacturer's recommendations on using antiseize on spark plugs. I work on marine applications and always use antiseize on spark plugs and "torque" them to tight. I also use dielectric grease on the boots. Until the manufactures print an 800 number on the box to ring someone at their company to come out and remove seized plugs I will continue this practice for another 40 years.
 

Jim b

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After dealing with seized plugs on a 2011 Toyota i don't care what the manufacturers say. Plugs are getting a very small amount of anti seize.
Yep I suspect that the plug mfg. are worried about contamination from excess or improperly applied anti seize causing misfires thus causing customer dissatisfaction. Who is going to blame the spark plug mfg years later when the plugs need removed again if they are stuck? Anti seize on every plug that I install!
 
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balarneystone

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So I recently had a stuck spark plug in cylinder number 8. As you all know, that's a difficult one on the best days. Anyways, it was so stuck that the nut part broke off and I couldn't get an extraction tool in there. So, I removed the head. The small extraction tool wasn't cutting it so I bought a larger one.... This plug was so stuck that it's a permanent part of the head now. The extractor tool dug all the way to the other side and cracked my head. I've since bought a new head. I was told this happens because I didn't put anti seize in the plugs, however, the ngk recommendations say to install them dry, as anti seize may affect the torque settings (I never torque them, I just do hand tight and then a snug pull).

And yes, I soaked for 2 days in wd40, pb blaster, and an acetone/transmission fluid mixture. I also tried the female style extractor first.
I had the same issue with my 02 Tahoe. I didn't end up snapping off the nut, but knew if I torqued any harder that could hapen. Did all the same tricks, PB blaster, Kroil, etc. Talked to a friend of mine that owns a machine shop / manufacturing operation. He said to heat the s**t out of it and then cool the s**t out of it. Ended up buying a can of this wart freezing spray stuff on Amazon. Hit it with a propane torch till it smoked, let it cool and then soaked it multiple times until it had a 1/4 inch of frost on it and managed to pop it loose. Snapped loose so loud I thought I busted it, but it was okay.
 

KC 2013 Tahoe

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I've always used the grey Permatex anti-seize from a tube on my motorcycles and on our '13 Tahoe 5.3 (all w/Aluminum heads). In 50 years have never had a problem with a loosened, stuck or damaged thread. My Honda Shadow 1100 m/c uses 4 NGK plugs and the prior owner installed them dry... I had to use a breaker bar to break them loose! Thankfully the threads weren't damaged and the fresh NGK's screwed right back in. Even NGK doesn't recommend using anti-seize, but I choose differently based upon my experience. My vote is for using anti-seize with any aluminum headed engine.

Kevin
 

Gearz

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Have you ever seen someone use anti seize on lug nuts! Can you say hydro lock. The nut spins on the stud and never tightens then the wheel falls off! Never use the stuff except on thing that are subjected to water and salt and then sparingly.
 

SpareParts

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I do use a small amount on my lug studs, have for years and years.
Never had a problem. Such a small amount i can't imagine it a problem. Why not on lug studs? Never checked into it. Always heard not to but never a problem so never checked into it.
 

SpareParts

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Done a little reading. Seems to be a debate actually. Seems to defaults to what does the manufacturer recommends. They recommend no anti seize on spark plug threads also.
Other things say a very small amount on the threads is ok.
I use a small amount on the threads keeping the cone part clean and dry.
 

OR VietVet

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Done a little reading. Seems to be a debate actually. Seems to defaults to what does the manufacturer recommends. They recommend no anti seize on spark plug threads also.
Other things say a very small amount on the threads is ok.
I use a small amount on the threads keeping the cone part clean and dry.
Depending on how much you put on the threads, the cone/taper will get some on it.
 

ZKWBQD

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So I recently had a stuck spark plug in cylinder number 8. As you all know, that's a difficult one on the best days. Anyways, it was so stuck that the nut part broke off and I couldn't get an extraction tool in there. So, I removed the head. The small extraction tool wasn't cutting it so I bought a larger one.... This plug was so stuck that it's a permanent part of the head now. The extractor tool dug all the way to the other side and cracked my head. I've since bought a new head. I was told this happens because I didn't put anti seize in the plugs, however, the ngk recommendations say to install them dry, as anti seize may affect the torque settings (I never torque them, I just do hand tight and then a snug pull).

And yes, I soaked for 2 days in wd40, pb blaster, and an acetone/transmission fluid mixture. I also tried the female style extractor first.
Something to consider going forward is have your spark plugs changed every five years.
 

j91z28d1

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I know ngk says not to. I always end up using a little bit of anti-seize because I just can't put them in aluminum dry. I've also had to change the Ford. ones that are known to break off in the head. and I don't wna to deal with that.


ngk does sware their coating is enough thou. any chance you might have gotten a knock off set of ngk? I think Don jet man here found he ended up with a set in his.
 

OR VietVet

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I know ngk says not to. I always end up using a little bit of anti-seize because I just can't put them in aluminum dry. I've also had to change the Ford. ones that are known to break off in the head. and I don't wna to deal with that.


ngk does sware their coating is enough thou. any chance you might have gotten a knock off set of ngk? I think Don jet man here found he ended up with a set in his.
If you just go ahead and dab a small amount on ANY plug threads, it is better than taking a chance on a problem. Some people way over tighten and stretch the threads and have to deal with that problem later.
 

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