another autoride question.

[kb83]

Ok so new member and new to the yukon. Purchased a clean low mileage 01 SLT last week. So before I ask yes I have used the search, and no I didnt find a answer. Now here is my question. I bought my yukon and someone had leveled it using stock keys. No rake. I want to swap stock keys for after market lift keys. But I heard if the front is lifted the autoride will automatically adjust to level. Is this true? Or can I do a 2.5/1 level and have some rake? Thanks.

 

[Screwd up 6]

If you lift the front the rear will stay where it's at now. If it is level now...new keys with more crank will give u Cali lean. U will need to lift the rear and adjust the autoride sensors or disable rear autoride. I think of u add a spacer in the rear the auto ride will lower it back down to try to make the sensors sit where they need to be

Someone else might have other info but Im pretty sure it would be as I stated

 

[kb83]

Ok thats what I was wondering. I want the front to be where its at now just with lift keys rather than the stocks cranked up. The rear I want a inch higher with either blocks or spacers. Planning on putting some 295's or 305's under it.

---------- Post added at 08:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:18 PM ----------

I know I do not want to remove the autoride as I haul a boat and trailer often. It was one of the selling points on the vehicle. Can I reprogram the autoride sensor to lift the rear a inch higher?

 

[Screwd up 6]

I don't think after market lift keys will change anything or benefit you unless you plan to crank more. Whether the stock keys are fully cranked or after market slightly cranked...2" lift up front is still 2" and still put the same amount of stress on steering components.

For the rear...I think some have lengthened the rear sensors or autoride. I know how to remove the autoride but have never altered it so I can't offer much info.

I can say that even with 1" spacer the next problem will be shocks. Most will run bilstein 5100 series which are longer...but u can't run them due to u wanting to keep the autoride shocks. I still have not seen a rear shock extender for lifted applications. This does not mean one doesn't exist...I just never could find one when I was doing research.

 

[kb83]

Do you need different shocks? I lifted my Silverado 3" up front and 2" in the bagk with the stock shocks. Never had a issue.

 

[Screwd up 6]

No the shocks are not a MUST, but they do make the ride a lot better. The stock shocks will work but since they are over extended they will not have much downward travel resulting in a rougher ride. I had to crank my front end about 2” for my new tires and I notice it. I do realize some of the stiffness is from the keys being cranked in general, but the actual roughness and shock absorption is noticeably different.

Keep in mind tho, this is all personal preference. Some have done lift keys, cranked the front to sit on the control arm and say the ride isn’t bad haha.

 

[Jeff d]

I'm not 100% sure but logically I think if you put regular shock extenders on the rear autoride shocks and then make some little brackets to effectively extend the links on the ride height sensors then everything will continue to operate as normal just 2" higher (or 1.5" or whatever your spacers, extensions and custom brackets work out to). Because it's further up the control arm trigonometry dictates you don't need quite the same length as your spacer. You'd have to figure that out. i.e. For a 2" spacer you might only need a 1.5" adjustment or extender on your ride height sensor arm.

Look for the device in the attached picture on your rear control arms. There appears to be some adjustment in those links but I'm not sure if it will be enough.

If not you could get something like a length of 1/8x1" bar steel from home depot you could unbolt the lower bolt where the red arrow is and just make a piece of the steel with an appropriately sized hole in each end. Make the bottom part long enough so that it butts up against the control arm when bolted in place so that it can't rotate and then reattach the rest of the factory bracket to the top hole of the extension bracket that you made.

In the end you'll be making the system's new neutral point at the desired higher height and it *should* operate as it does now just 1.5-2" higher.

 

[SFBEE]

sorry to tag onto this post. i've been searching for some answers and you guys are on one of the topics i'm looking for. i've read it can be done but can't find how to do it....adjust the autoride links in the rear. i'm completely stock now (2013 LTZ) and trying to get the rear slightly lower. i would love 1" but not sure i want to change springs etc. my question is, it appears you can possibly slide the lower bracket piece of the autoride link and if you were to move it towards the rear of the vehicle it would essentially shorten the sensor and acheive a lower ride height (slightly). I tested it and kept the seats out of the back and ran it very low on gas. then i filled it up, installed the seats and that alone brought my back end down about 1/2"....of course, autoride/autolevel brought it back up. how can i make it to where it doesn't bring it back up?

 

[Screwd up 6]

You will def have to modify the sensors. Im sure Tony (NORCAL SS) can help you with this.

 

[SFBEE]

i'm wondering if anyone has slid the clamp or whatever it is that attaches the bottom end link to the suspension further to the rear to effectively shorten the travel distance and hopefully lower the ride height. again, even if i could get 1/2"-3/4" that would make me grin a little. i'm thinking this can be done and has to be why other ltz's ride at different heights. i've seen some that look almost level and i've asked if they did anything and the owner (typcially a soccer mom in my parts) looks at me like i'm crazy.

---------- Post added at 03:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:26 PM ----------

looking at the picture attached above, i wonder if you could put the lower end in the hole on the opposite side of the bracket?