Again with the electrical issue.

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Daniel12

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2012 Tahoe.

This has happened before and they told me there was a wire grounding out (not sure which wire). Can’t accelerate without the truck stuttering and the electric going in and out, and the power locks locking and unlocking rapidly. Sometimes won’t start.

Thoughts?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Daniel12

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Battery cables looked good. No corrosion. Will check the mega fuse in the morning. Thanks.
 

wjburken

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Battery cables looked good. No corrosion. Will check the mega fuse in the morning. Thanks.

You may have already done this but when checking the battery cables, make sure you look at the surfaces that are mated at the connection. I’ve had cables that looked fine only to find that there was a crust of corrosion under the connector at the frame.
 
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Daniel12

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You may have already done this but when checking the battery cables, make sure you look at the surfaces that are mated at the connection. I’ve had cables that looked fine only to find that there was a crust of corrosion under the connector at the frame.


Thanks. I thought maybe just disconnecting the pos. battery terminal made a difference because it drove really well for awhile but eventually the stabilitrak and traction lights came on. Only checked the positive because that’s where the mega fuse was. Haven’t replaced yet.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Thanks. I thought maybe just disconnecting the pos. battery terminal made a difference because it drove really well for awhile but eventually the stabilitrak and traction lights came on. Only checked the positive because that’s where the mega fuse was. Haven’t replaced yet.

The negative cable is known to corrode from the inside out. I'd just change it for the sake of being thorough.
 

OR VietVet

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Was any work done to the rig before this all started happening? Engine compartment or firewall and lower area? Like has been said, the cable connections can look good at the battery but the corrosion problem can be inside the insulation and if bad enough the cable insulation will be swollen. I personally would check all wire connections under the hood and all over the engine and look to see if any wire is rubbed thru or loose connection. You said before that the wire was grounded out but they did not tell you which one? Repair bill say which one? Why would they not tell you which wire?
 
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Daniel12

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Was any work done to the rig before this all started happening? Engine compartment or firewall and lower area? Like has been said, the cable connections can look good at the battery but the corrosion problem can be inside the insulation and if bad enough the cable insulation will be swollen. I personally would check all wire connections under the hood and all over the engine and look to see if any wire is rubbed thru or loose connection. You said before that the wire was grounded out but they did not tell you which one? Repair bill say which one? Why would they not tell you which wire?

It’s possible they told me which wire, but it’s been a year. I will def take care if that ad well. It’s possible they made up some shit just to charge me $145, but honestly I was expecting way worse.
 

OR VietVet

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Was that the last work done on the Tahoe besides normal oil change or anything like that?
 

OR VietVet

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Then it is a search and destroy-(FIX)-mission. Patience is a virtue. This is made for a day in a shop for free, buddies, coveralls, very cold iced down beer, lift or a creeper, great light and start with the basics and look at every wire you can lay your hands on from front to trans area.
 

Mickey_7106

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i would start from the BCM and work your way back. I think ive might have mentioned this on this forum but when i had my C5 i would loose all power to the passenger side door or have it go crazy like you mentioned. it turned out to be a wire pulling away from a harness that connects the door to the rest of the car right at the hinges. just eye balling the harness it looked fine. once disconnected i could see that one of the pins was being pulled away
 

OR VietVet

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Yes, check all pin plug ins. So many times in my shops we found the two halves of the connector plugged together but when looked closely you could see where the male and female pins were not plugged in because one of them pushed the other out a ways inside the connector housing.
 
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Daniel12

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i would start from the BCM and work your way back. I think ive might have mentioned this on this forum but when i had my C5 i would loose all power to the passenger side door or have it go crazy like you mentioned. it turned out to be a wire pulling away from a harness that connects the door to the rest of the car right at the hinges. just eye balling the harness it looked fine. once disconnected i could see that one of the pins was being pulled away

Could the mega fuse cause this on a larger scale and could it intermittently work and then not?
 
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Daniel12

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could be possible, but i don't know. I wonder if those could be tested with a multi meter.


If was $5 and recommended earlier to check or replace. After I disconnected the pos. battery terminal, it was running fine so I didn’t, however that didn’t last long. Replacing it tonight.
 

Crossfire

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I had similar problems and it was the main relay ,fuse block under hood. Take cover off, there is two handles, when you pull them it releases the whole fuse block. Underneath mine was corroded bad, had the complete block and harness replaced, all fixed. I have 2007 Tahoe, sensors ,locks windows all acted up, just a suggestion, you couldn’t see any of the corrosion til I lifted the box up. Just a suggestion
 
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Daniel12

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I had similar problems and it was the main relay ,fuse block under hood. Take cover off, there is two handles, when you pull them it releases the whole fuse block. Underneath mine was corroded bad, had the complete block and harness replaced, all fixed. I have 2007 Tahoe, sensors ,locks windows all acted up, just a suggestion, you couldn’t see any of the corrosion til I lifted the box up. Just a suggestion

Thanks. I replaced the mega fuse tonight so I’ll see if that has an effect. Got quite a few things to check after all the suggestions which is pretty cool.
 
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Daniel12

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If was $5 and recommended earlier to check or replace. After I disconnected the pos. battery terminal, it was running fine so I didn’t, however that didn’t last long. Replacing it tonight.


The mega fuse didn’t solve the problem. Taking the positive lead off of the battery does seem to alleviate the issue for a day or so.
 

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