AFM went bust?
- Thread starter BG1988
- Start date
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IF you are getting a loud tapping near cyl #1... then very likely...
The lifters can fail at any of afm locations... Or you may have wiped a cam lobe...
OR a rocker arm spit its bearings....
OR you just have a bad plug/wire/ coil pack/ injector
I don't think AFM will function properly when you have a misfire current
The lifters can fail at any of afm locations... Or you may have wiped a cam lobe...
OR a rocker arm spit its bearings....
OR you just have a bad plug/wire/ coil pack/ injector
I don't think AFM will function properly when you have a misfire current
well it works fine for a few seconds maybe like 5-7 seconds then starts misfireing
i have to put the new throttle body it has a faulty motor(the winding has a dead spot)inside so the flap is not moving properly... i just disconnected the battery so it does not go flat
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gooffeyguy
Tom
Or a vacuum leak, but that would keep showing up on random cylinders
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Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
it works fine for a few seconds (5-7)then it starts to misfire... coil?
since it is a AFM coil it should ahve more wear and tear
Swap wire, then plug, then coil, with #3 and see if one of them causes the mid-fire to move to #3. If it moves with a swap it’s probably not lifter related.
Yeah this is turning into a disaster quickly i broke the connector on the throttle body sigh.. another 20$ sigh.....
plus i have to get the pick to release the wires etc.. like $2-3 more, rather then chopping them off etc.the gray connector refused to come off so the black tab broke off first
anyways i cracked open the throttle body last night and the gears inside were ok LIKE new condition pretty much no wear or tear on it
it's the original throttle body too. spotless inside. so good chance it's a faulty motor..
The easy way to see if you have a dead lifter on #1 its to pull the valve cover off (make everything is clear of the rocker arms) and start the truck and observe the movement of the rocker arms on #1.
- if there is stuck/collapsed lifter, that rocker arm will not move or will move alot less then the others.
- With the valve cover off and the engine off, check the 2 rockers on #1, is there any excessive play with them......if so, you have a stuck/collapsed lifter OR you could have a bad rocker arm.
If your lifters and rockers check out, then look into diagnosing the plug, coil, wire and or possible injector issue
Easy work gents and good luck!
- if there is stuck/collapsed lifter, that rocker arm will not move or will move alot less then the others.
- With the valve cover off and the engine off, check the 2 rockers on #1, is there any excessive play with them......if so, you have a stuck/collapsed lifter OR you could have a bad rocker arm.
If your lifters and rockers check out, then look into diagnosing the plug, coil, wire and or possible injector issue
Easy work gents and good luck!
i switched the ignition coil from #1 to cylinder to #3 getting P0300 random misfire i cleared the codes a couple of times to make sure.. the P0301 went away...
also cleaned up the ground cables and positive cables again
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Sounds like you might have had some corrosion/oxidation on the plug wire/coil connection. Might be worth taking all the plug wires off and putting a dab of dielectric grease on the connections.
there your problem 
dinner is ready
cooked spark plugs hope you like it extra well done.
toppings include gas a little bit of oil :S the plug is
("dry but cooked ")
it got so hot the Iridium electrode melted to the ceramic
dinner is ready
cooked spark plugs hope you like it extra well done.
toppings include gas a little bit of oil :S the plug is
("dry but cooked ")
it got so hot the Iridium electrode melted to the ceramic
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I’d be curious as to why that plug looked so bad.Put a new plug she fired right up smooth
still no over 3k rpm damn you TB
Get all the egg cleaned off your Tahoe?
yeah did
i could not tighten down the spark plug hand tightened ( the bolt part is smaller then the original plug) i hope it does not unscrew it self
maybe that is normal as the original plug came out super easy as well like hand tight
That doesn’t sound right. I’m assuming you have aluminum heads. I’d check to make sure your threads aren’t stripped out.
it went in smoothly it does not keep spinning
the socket can't reach the nut
it was able to reach the original nut not the replacement as it's shorter
the nut on the 41-985 is about 1/4" longer
it's the correct part as well # 41-162 the original part was 41-985
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Ok, I misunderstood when you said the bolt part was smaller, thinking the threaded portion.it went in smoothly it does not keep spinning
the socket can't reach the nut
it was able to reach the original nut not the replacement as it's shorter
the nut on the 41-985 is about 1/4" longer
it's the correct part as well # 41-162 the original part was 41-985
View attachment 252970
I would think a spark-plug socket would be long enough to engage the hex of the plug. Not sure I’d be comfortable with a plug that is only finger tight. Good luck and hope it holds for you. I’m still curious as to why your plug was so dirty. How many miles on that plug?
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99.5k miles just short by 500 miles on the 100,000 miles claim
the nut is slightly bigger and extends up the plug
the new one is a design fail yeah i'm using a sparkplug socket i'll try another deep socket i have
View attachment 252971
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