In theory, you should've been able to get away with replacing the compressor, o-tube and accumulator. However, like SunlitComet said, I'm curious to know what your old o-tube looked like. Was the screen completely clear? Was the plastic part of the o-tube still a dull yellow? If the answer was anything but a definite yes, chances are you've got some "black death" in your system, caused by a compressor starting to go. If that's the case, you'll be putting in some work. You'll need to disassemble everything, shoot flush chemicals through it (in both directions), dry it out (SunlitComet says to use dry nitrogen - definitely use it if it's available, though most shops don't have nitrogen and seem to do fine), charge with nitrogen to check for leaks (again, if you have nitrogen), purge the system, vacuum it down, then use the vacuum to charge as liquid, then as gas. If you do have black death, you can't possibly solicit enough advice from people who have done this before.
I've heard (from a GM tech) that the condenser on my truck (99 Yukon, not sure about others) is parallel-flow, and that despite all of the TSBs I've read from GM saying it'll be fine to re-use it, he says it's not fine, and he's never re-used a condenser where he knew there was catatrophic failure or particulate in the system. The only way you could realistically flush a parallel flow condenser is probably with a HECAT or similar device (a liquid pressurized closed-loop flusher, usually available only at high-end shops, will likely cost you as much for this service as a new condenser, which IIRC is about $110, AND you may be able to sell the old condenser to a metal scrap outfit and cop enough money for a trip to Sonic or McD's!). Consider that all GM dealerships have one of those machines, and my friend still says don't do it.
Also, if you have rear AC, you absolutely must remove the rear evaporator and disconnect the expansion valve and flush the pipes individually, and the evaporator individually, as the TXV won't let you flush through it (might be a good time to replace the TXV too, since its only 50 bucks). Contrary to popular belief, getting to the rear evaporator is not as much of a pain in the ass as everyone thinks it is. Just remember that those rear hoses curve upward when they reach the firewall, so you'll need enough air pressure to push the flush and the air up and out (maybe someone has better advice for you in that regard). Also you can't realistically flush through the high and low side hoses (unless they don't have mufflers - but all of them do by default), so if you suspect the death, you should replace them. FYI, mine had a problem with warped threads on the rear pipe, probably due to the pipes and the rubber hoses having two different types of metals, though they don't seem to leak. Finally, when assembling everything, add oil according to Delco's "oil balance card" that tells you how many ounces go where. It's like 3 for the compressor, 2 for the accumulator, 2 for the condenser, etc (but check it first! don't take my word for it. In fact, don't take my word for anything, do your own research and ask plenty of questions - it'll save you time and money). That document assumes a brand new or completely clean component that has no oil in it.
One final word of advice - double-check Alldata or the Helms manual for your truck on capacities, unless you still have the old accumulator, which I understand has a capacity sticker on it. I managed to find multiple incorrect sources on the Internet, including a Haynes AC manual, that says my truck takes 4 pounds (?!@#$) of refrigerant - in fact the correct spec for my truck with C69 (rear AC) seems to be 2.75 lbs. Overcharging to that degree would surely blow up that new compressor of yours. Hopefully that hasn't happened already. Overcharging can certainly limit the effectiveness of your system in direct proportion to how overcharged it is.
Oh and then there's this. GM recommends in cases of catastrophic failure (which doesn't sound like it was the case with yours, though you might still have a little bit of "black death" in your system if your compressor was on its way out, i.e. if you ran it with too little oil, which is usually the case when you have a leak and recharge it a few times).. that you install a screen on the suction side that fits down into the compressor's low-side input, to protect the compressor from solid particulate that might make its way up to the compressor, and a liquid line filter to trap solid particulate in the filter (though from what I can tell by the pictures of this particular Delco filter, it seems to screw in *after* the orifice tube, making it's effectiveness questionable based on my lay knowledge of AC systems). But I think that goes back to the subject of the condenser - if you have a clean condenser and a clean system, your o-tube shouldn't get dirty at all.
Personally, I'm at the point where I need to recover and inspect my o-tube to see if I have more black death in my system. I had a catastrophic failure and I didn't know the condenser wouldn't flush well. I have a feeling i'll be replacing it - I replaced pretty much everything except the evaporators at this point. I may also install a suction screen but I'm not sure I see the point of a liquid line filter, yet.
Good luck!
