I have a leak in the rear A/C line, don't know if it's the send or return line. the question is can I block them off in the engine compartment ? Is there a plug or cap on the market or a dependable back yard solution? The leak in the line is between the front door and second row door area along the frame , rocker.
A/C leak in rear lines
- Thread starter johns2008
- Start date
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Is it a line leak or a seal on the line? Sorry, I am better about researching a fix instead of a band aid or patch.
Plus, when you ask for help with a vehicle, it is best to post all the vehicle details. I can only assume it is a 2008.....something.
Plus, when you ask for help with a vehicle, it is best to post all the vehicle details. I can only assume it is a 2008.....something.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
PLug in your VIN here:
and search "A/C Line Repair Kit" and 5 options will come up. Read through and see if one of these would help.
Last time I checked, new lines were still available too.
2008 yucon xl 5.3 thanks
abrasumente
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I've been in HVAC for 17+ years, so I feel a little qualified to speak on this 'un.
Reworking the lines to just have your front AC working is going to be more effort than it's worth, simply because of the way vapor compression refrigeration (the AC in your truck) works. tl;dr at the bottom
If the system is still charged, you'll need to have it recovered before attempting to repair anything, unless it's already empty. Don't use the atmospheric recovery tank, it's full
134a isn't a high pressure refrigerant but a full charged system sitting in the driveway in June is still gonna have anywhere between 80-150 psi in the line, and if you open that up, you're gonna get a face full of cold smoke at minimum. There looks to be some line splices on rockauto but depending on how the line is damaged these may not work, I've never used them so can't speak to their efficacy. Epoxy sucks, but it'll hold for a little while. This crap is probably your best bet. Best option is line replacement, or 55mph air conditioner. You COULD sweat the leak shut (after recovery) with an oxy/ace torch and some rod, but it's super easy to roast aluminum tube, and knowing GM they designed the pipe with toilet paper thin walls which will make it even more susceptible to heat death.After you make whatever fix, do yourself a favor and buy a set of o ring gaskets and a new accumulator/dryer. Replace all the o rings you can get to and put the new dryer in (it's the big silver canister looking thing on the passenger side firewall). Auto parts stores will rent you a set of gauges and a tiny vacuum pump which will take approximately forever to pull down to a decent vacuum. For the average DIY'er, pull the vacuum for 30 minutes after it hits -29.9 on the low side gauge. If it doesn't hit -29.9 within an hour, you probably have a leak. After you've pulled for 30 minutes once reaching your target, close your gauges and shut the pump off. Watch the gauge. If the gauge starts rising back towards 0, you have a leak (or a lot of moisture, or both. Change the oil in the pump and pull for another hour. If it does it again, definitely a leak). This part is CRITICAL unless you want to replace the compressor for fun- moisture in the lines will react with the oil and refrigerant creating acid, which will kill the compressor.
Once that's done, try to find refrigerant cans at the parts store that don't have stop leak in them, again unless you want to replace the compressor. Allegedly, an individual with an EPA 609 card would charge using the gauges you rented to pull the vacuum, and not the crappy tire gauge they slap on the can that's inaccurate af. I'm sure there is some special method to charge these puppies up but I, with the magic EPA 609 card and all the knowledge and powers granted by passing this online test, use two walmart box fans in front of the radiator for extra airflow across the condenser coil and have the wife hold the RPMS around 2k while charging THROUGH THE SUCTION SIDE (blue hose/big pipe) with beautiful, untouched, virgin 134a out of a 30 lb jug (no stopleak crap in that!), to the nameplate charge found on the radiator brace beauty cover. I used this method after replacing the motor in my suburban and it blows snowballs at me while it's 95 degrees outside.
Something else to chew on- There are line fittings called Zoomlock that use a powered crimp tool to create the seal similar to propress for plumbing that would work IF there's a fitting that matches the OD of the line. Zoomlock is usually copper, so you might see electrolysis using that. There's an aluminum style, but I don't remember the name of those. If you know someone in the trade, you might convince them to give it a shot for schlitz and giggles (or a 6 pack).
tl;dr no dependable back yard solution, try the epoxy
You can also just get the line set that goes on a 2008 pickup truck. They don't have the rear option and will work with your existing front A/C. Seen it done a number of times. Just look up a 2008 sierra 1500 in gmparts.com or similar and you should be able to locate the lines and coupler to the compressor.
Then have it evacuated if it's still pressurized - if not, then tear into it. Put the new lines on and abandon the rear A/C. The front will still cool the vehicle and you can still use the rear blower to circulate air inside. Then do the vacuum test and recharge
Then have it evacuated if it's still pressurized - if not, then tear into it. Put the new lines on and abandon the rear A/C. The front will still cool the vehicle and you can still use the rear blower to circulate air inside. Then do the vacuum test and recharge
