9L7 upfitter switches

[mikez71]

Just purchased this switch.. $20 from here https://www.ebay.com/itm/185091679858

Got a deal on the fuse/relay box, usually around $75 on ebay.. You can shuffle two fuses (for 1&2 and 3&4) to run off battery or ignition.

The bezel around the switches was made for the knee panel in a '19-'21 silverado.. and has a curve to it. not sure I like it there and thinking about putting it where the traction control buttons go.

It's nearly a perfect fit, just need to cut some grooves or grind down the ridges on the side for it to fit.

Squeezed it in for the last picture which is bowing out the sides of the panel..

 

[B-train]

Just purchased this switch.. $20 from here https://www.ebay.com/itm/185091679858

Got a deal on the fuse/relay box, usually around $75 on ebay.. You can shuffle two fuses (for 1&2 and 3&4) to run off battery or ignition.

The bezel around the switches was made for the knee panel in a '19-'21 silverado.. and has a curve to it. not sure I like it there and thinking about putting it where the traction control buttons go.

It's nearly a perfect fit, just need to cut some grooves or grind down the ridges on the side for it to fit.

Squeezed it in for the last picture which is bowing out the sides of the panel..

That's really sweet! How did you do the wiring to power it. I saw a harness in the first picture. Also, will you be able to get wiring to it easy enough for add-ons/service?

 

[mikez71]

Haven't gotten there yet! Gotta do my wheel bearings this weekend..

Shouldn't be too bad, going to order the battery cable today.

There are 4 blunt cut ends and 1 in a connector (I will remove) for the outputs.

The plug that usually goes under dash in newer trucks looks to be dimmer controls, switched ignition, power, ground, surveillance signal, emergency lamp relay, and trailer control and trailer brake signal.. Might not need a few of those.. Will update when I can!

 

[mikez71]

Small update, got my new bezel today and test fitted the switch unit. I had to shave the side ribs off the switch unit with a razor and cut a couple tabs on top and it fits perfectly! There is a small gap on top, not loose, just some small air gaps if you look up at it, which you will never be able to see in vehicle.

The surveillance wire wasn't included on my relay block (apparently an option to turn off all lights.) Trailer wiring is *probably* just a pass through from the plug it's plugged into. Switched power, indicator dimming and backlight dimming I will take from the original (pedal/park assist/traction control) harness. Constant power from VCIM or MBEC.

 

[mikez71]

inside of switch.. thinking I need to add a blue cover over the LED's that backlight.. Pretty sure they are white normally
Would appreciate any suggestions on what to use.. need something small that can cover each LED individually as 1 large piece looks like it would interfere with the buttons.

VCIM removed for wiring space, connect tan-blk to tan-blk, and tan to tan. Enough space for the wiring, but got tired of reaching around the damn thing that does nothing for me. Plus I have a radio adapter (to disable chimes) and that wiring takes up some space too. If anyone wants a bluetooth VCIM, got on forsale

finally got the relay box mounted. Lame that I have to pop off the side cover, but it's close so I don't need to add wires to the switch wiring and at least that cover pops off easily.

trailer passthrough wires removed from harness. what's left is the 5 outputs, and 4 other wires (other than the main +power cable)
They are switched ignition (probably don't need if you don't plan on running ignition switched relays) ground, dimmer backlight and dimmer indicator.. The bracket is stainless steel.. nut holding subwoofer is holding it. Not touching side of sub, just looks like it from this camera angle. Ikea part.. "Grundtal" Started life as a bathroom towel holder. Left the little tab on bottom as it tensions on carpet

 

[Shackman7878]

Here is the part number if anyone wants to order it

9L7 Up fitter Kit Black Part Number - 84942073
Harness Instrument Panel Auxiliary Block Part number - 84497098
Battery Extension Cable Harness Harness Part Number - 84794790
Fuse Kit Part Number - 84669070

Black Switch Part number - 84688687
Brown Switch Part Number - 84688686

 

[mikez71]

Got wires through firewall..accidentally poked through boot with chopstick to make the hole..

thats the tip of my wire pyramid. Ran the ring terminal on the main power and 6 more wires (3-10guage, 2-12 guage and 3-14 guage wires) 3 spare in case i need something else.

 

[mikez71]

So I wired up the 4 small wires, backlight dimmer, indicator dimmer, power and ground.
Backlight and Indicator wired from the original switchbank wiring, power and ground from Onstar(removed) wiring.

Backlight didn't seem to work, wire it to indicator dimmer and it works. (Kind of, doesn't dim as low as rest of dash) I think the backlighting is meant to be much dimmer, so perhaps I shouldn't expect to see it in daytime..


However, the indicator wire (purple/white) is hot all the time..(in my truck anyhow)

 

[mikez71]

The BACKLIGHT wire that does not seem to work is yellow J1-4 switchbank pin, looks to be the same circuit to radio, dic buttons etc.
Could be it wasn't dark enough for me to see, as I can't see my steering wheel button backlight or headlight switch either.. That or I blew a fuse or bcm died or something. Will test again tonight.

The INDICATOR purple/white wire powers the indicator LEDs, but it's up to the Park assist module to ground it. (maybe washer heater too if you have that, other switches have no indicator) Still doesn't seem right being hot at all times..

 

[mikez71]

OK the solution was pretty simple, i'm an idiot. Needed to turn headlights on for the backlight to turn on. Yellow wire good, me dumb.

 

[mikez71]

Siliconed T5 bulb covers in "hyper-white"(light blue shade) whiter than rest of backlighting, but blue bulb covers made it dark blue and the backlighting isnt as bright as the rest. Did not want to attempt soldering the original LEDs on there, dont think my hands are steady enough! The LEDs can get bright, but you have to give them more power than the backlight wire. Could be resistors on the circuit board are calibrated for different backlight voltage in newer trucks. Need to button this thing up, so Im done messing with the switch panel.

 

[2pla]

anyone know where the power and ground pins are?

 

[mikez71]

Short of tapping into your radio, hvac, or vcim connectors...
I recommend using the MBEC.

Pardon Our Interruption...

You will need to wire the main relay power direct from battery of course.

 

[2pla]

I meant on the switches themselves, which pin is main 12v and which is ground, because I didn't get the fuse box thingy with it, thanks for the help

 

[mikez71]

From UI (upfitter integration) bulletin #153d
Pin 1 ground
Pin 13 power

 

[wes454]

just ordered this setup any help on what wires i can remove or the colors of the 1s i need to keep? doing this to my lbz duramax

 

[mikez71]

I connected wires 1, 3, 7, 11, 13.
Don't need #13 if you want your switches powered all the time.

 

[2pla]

finally got around to doing mine https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/9l7-switches-without-gm-fuse-box.158032/