Escalade platinum 09+ interior in NNBS 08

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j1req

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So yeah, it's finally finished. Escalade cluster, audio, radio, hvac controls, vented seats, rse, heated/cooled platinum cupholders — everything works. Adding the RSE and vented seats was somewhat challenging, but I've finished the hardest part (UQS amp swap) a year ago and the rest is much easier. Tips:

1) UQS audio swap is the most challenging step for 07-08 and is a must only if you want to stick to the oem radio. The easiest way is to get an escy android radio and keep the og amp/ditch it completely and go custom;
2) Cluster swap is a matter of programming and finding the connectors. Connectors' p/n can be found in the electrical service manual and purchased from mouser (if you prefer original connectors) or from AliExpress (chinese knock-offs are good enough). I've made an adapter harness that plugs into Tahoe cluster connector and makes it escy cluster connector but you can just cut and crimp, it's easy;
3) KB6 vented seats are a *****. Your best bet is to get the full escy interior wire harness and cut the seats' part because finding the right pins is a nightmare. The difference between AN3 w/o KB6 and w/ it is several wires going from driver's seat to the passenger's, one more ground and one more +12v on both seats. You'll also most probably will have to cut the passenger's seat internal wire harness because there's very little chances you'll find an escy seat with your exact passenger present sensor. My decision to go with platinum made it even worse so I've replaced the seat's passenger's presence sensor with my factory one;
4) escy hvac controls just work, don't believe anyone telling you otherwise;
5) bottom i/p buttons (parking/traction switches, etc.) are different on escy and tahoe. You'll need to find connectors and splice the Tahoe one, it's mostly a matter of color matching but go see the service manual;
6) if your Tahoe is 4wd, try searching for the hybrid escy lights switch — it's got the hole for 4wd controls;
7) the dash itself is a bolt-on fit. It was challenging moving the whole dash with it's internal frame by myself so I've unbolted the Tahoe plastic bits and replaced it with escy plastic bits — much easier to handle. The frame is literally the same;
8) if your car doesn't have RSE, you'll have to replace the roof liner (it has the mounting hole and the wire harness is glued in), the right A-pillar wire harness and the dash/console wire harness. Making all the harnesses by yourself is a hell of an experience so find a salvaged escy to butcher;
9) the air piping going from your hvac to the deflectors are different on escy and on tahoe. Making an escy one from the tahoe one is a huge pita so once again find an escy to butcher;
10) the heated/cooled cupholder is shit, don't bother
 
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j1req

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Some of the WIP photos
 

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PPV_2018

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^^^ what he said. Looks promising, cant Wait to see the finished product

But please, please don’t be like this dude

Edit: apparently you are finished lol.. so disregard that
 
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j1req

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Well the driver's seat is being torn apart once again because it seems like the salvage yard's seat harness was either rotten or beaten to shit and after 1 week of driving the seat stopped moving back while it's ok with moving forward (I've sandwiched myself between the seat and the steering wheel, it was quite a literal hell getting out of such predicament without destroying the whole car in the process). Looks to be a matter of loose connection somewhere but we'll see. In the meanwhile the car will get a proper headliner detail and overall wash, then I'll get you some photos.

Oh, btw, I've lied a little. The RSE display doesn't work — there's no power on the display's connector, still figuring it out. I can swear I've tested it while putting the headliner in but, well, I've either overlooked it somehow or there's more loose connectors in my car than I've anticipated. No surprise when 16-year old car's interior was literally assembled from pieces far more than once.
 
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j1req

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In the meantime, here's some more WIP photos of the project.
In the late April I've gutted out the escy's IP harness and got all the multimedia pieces labeled. At the same time I've assembled a kind-of bench harness to power up the electronics to make sure they actually work (since they came from a salvage yard it was a big "?"). The IP harness is basically the same between escy and hoe except for the multimedia so the plan was to cut out Tahoe multimedia's part of the harness, transplant the escy one and then work out the remaining differences (cluster connector and the IP switchbanks). Everything was tested and it was a matter of me being ready to start gutting the hoe out.
 

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j1req

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In the very beginning of May I've finally formally started the project. The hoe's interior was fully removed and in next 3 days with almost zero sleep the escy's harness was fully transplanted into Tahoe. I had very limited time before I needed to get the car to the frame & body work so I've just finished with the wiring, assembled the lower part of the dash, fixed the Tahoe's original cluster with some tape to the dash and drove 150 miles to the bodyshop. I wanted to get the escy cluster working at that time as well but it needed programming that I couldn't do myself so it was skipped for the time being.
Notice the fire extinguisher and the med pack — essential tools when working on a car's electronics, especially if you're not qualified to do so. Luckily they haven't seen any use.
 

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j1req

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In early July I've finally got two essential pieces for continuing the project: the cluster was programmed and I've got the gorgeous cocoa carpet from 2011 escy.
I've decided to go with cocoa carpet because it looks just ✨. The beige carpet I've got from the salvage yard was beaten to complete and utter shit and the og Tahoe's "titanium" carpet is just a bad color imo and it doesn't go with escy's interior at all.
Getting the cocoa carpet was ENORMOUSLY DIFFICULT due to how extremely rare it is and because I live far outside of the US. Basically I've spent more on getting one than some of the Tahoes cost in NA.
 

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j1req

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After that I've got the car from the body shop and the rest of the assembly finally began. First photo is a WIP of transplanting the KB6 seats into a car without them. Basically, a huge pile of wires once again. Then the carpet and the headliner were installed. Installing the headliner with a single pair of hands is a ridiculously painful job, get yourself some helper if you decide to do the same. When I got tired (and it was quite often) I would go and bring me some small pieces like the radio or the glovebox and install them instead of doing the current planned "big" task. That basically went for a week before I was ready to get the rest of the seats and the door trims installed.
 

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j1req

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Oh, and if you're wondering "what body & frame work would take 2 months", here's your answer.
Since I'm from that part of Europe that gets huge amounts of snow and doesn't care about my car at all, the frame was quite rusty. No structural damage at the time but getting a new frame is getting harder and harder every year so I've decided to make what I could for the car to last some 10 years longer. Left-to-right is each step of "before/after". And a bonus pic of the underbelly.
 

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j1req

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My headliner was detailed and too many stains are still present. The salvage yard I've got most of the escy's interior from wasn't very high quality after all. Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and get myself another headliner in not-so-distant future, or find some good upholstery shop and redo all the fabric. Finding a platinum headliner specifically from 2012+ (with ANC microphones) is going to be a huge pita judging from my previous endeavors.
And as a cherry on the top, my liftgate harness started leaking. One of it's "clip" pieces deformed and now it just disconnects from the car's body on it's own, probably due to vibrations while driving. We had a huge rainstorm yesterday and freshly detailed albeit not completely clean headliner suffered a tremendous amount of dirty water inside the cargo area. Shit happens. Hope none of the electrics suffered any harm because I definitely don't want to pull the headliner off once again.
 
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j1req

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Also, I've installed freshly programmed BCM and now I can use 2010+ radios. My 2008 escy radio is pretty beaten up looks-wise (works just fine though) and I've got 2009 6disc one and 2013 single-disc w/ front aux. Both also have USB that I wanted to try out for quite a long time already, the 2013 one also got parking lines support.
Installed the 2013, the parking lines worked for like 5 seconds and disappeared with a "guide lines unavailable". No idea what it wants, will leave it for another time. Sticking with 6disc one for now — I've grown quite fond of good old audio CDs lately.
 

Geotrash

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So yeah, it's finally finished. Escalade cluster, audio, radio, hvac controls, vented seats, rse, heated/cooled platinum cupholders — everything works. Adding the RSE and vented seats was somewhat challenging, but I've finished the hardest part (UQS amp swap) a year ago and the rest is much easier. Tips:

1) UQS audio swap is the most challenging step for 07-08 and is a must only if you want to stick to the oem radio. The easiest way is to get an escy android radio and keep the og amp/ditch it completely and go custom;
2) Cluster swap is a matter of programming and finding the connectors. Connectors' p/n can be found in the electrical service manual and purchased from mouser (if you prefer original connectors) or from AliExpress (chinese knock-offs are good enough). I've made an adapter harness that plugs into Tahoe cluster connector and makes it escy cluster connector but you can just cut and crimp, it's easy;
3) KB6 vented seats are a *****. Your best bet is to get the full escy interior wire harness and cut the seats' part because finding the right pins is a nightmare. The difference between AN3 w/o KB6 and w/ it is several wires going from driver's seat to the passenger's, one more ground and one more +12v on both seats. You'll also most probably will have to cut the passenger's seat internal wire harness because there's very little chances you'll find an escy seat with your exact passenger present sensor. My decision to go with platinum made it even worse so I've replaced the seat's passenger's presence sensor with my factory one;
4) escy hvac controls just work, don't believe anyone telling you otherwise;
5) bottom i/p buttons (parking/traction switches, etc.) are different on escy and tahoe. You'll need to find connectors and splice the Tahoe one, it's mostly a matter of color matching but go see the service manual;
6) if your Tahoe is 4wd, try searching for the hybrid escy lights switch — it's got the hole for 4wd controls;
7) the dash itself is a bolt-on fit. It was challenging moving the whole dash with it's internal frame by myself so I've unbolted the Tahoe plastic bits and replaced it with escy plastic bits — much easier to handle. The frame is literally the same;
8) if your car doesn't have RSE, you'll have to replace the roof liner (it has the mounting hole and the wire harness is glued in), the right A-pillar wire harness and the dash/console wire harness. Making all the harnesses by yourself is a hell of an experience so find a salvaged escy to butcher;
9) the air piping going from your hvac to the deflectors are different on escy and on tahoe. Making an escy one from the tahoe one is a huge pita so once again find an escy to butcher;
10) the heated/cooled cupholder is shit, don't bother
Very, very impressive work! And thanks to taking the time to do this writeup!

I'm curious - what did you use to do the BCM and cluster programming, or did you send them out?
 
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j1req

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Very, very impressive work! And thanks to taking the time to do this writeup!

I'm curious - what did you use to do the BCM and cluster programming, or did you send them out?
Usually I program stuff myself (I've got experience with SPS and less "legal" DPS) but that only works for original gm calibrations. To get the newer (2009) cluster and newer (2013) radio to work with older (2008) BCM I basically had to send it out to people experienced in making modifications to original gm calibrations. There're at least two such shops in the world: one is dieselworks (US) and the other is in Russia. I'll leave it to your imagination which one I used.
 
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j1req

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Also, I've installed freshly programmed BCM and now I can use 2010+ radios. My 2008 escy radio is pretty beaten up looks-wise (works just fine though) and I've got 2009 6disc one and 2013 single-disc w/ front aux. Both also have USB that I wanted to try out for quite a long time already, the 2013 one also got parking lines support.
Installed the 2013, the parking lines worked for like 5 seconds and disappeared with a "guide lines unavailable". No idea what it wants, will leave it for another time. Sticking with 6disc one for now — I've grown quite fond of good old audio CDs lately.
I've got an idea that maybe it all comes down to either parking assist ECU (the black Bosch box under passenger's seat) or the steering wheel angle sensor (doughnut-shaped thing on the bottom of the steering column). By magic of having a huge ton of spares from different years I intend to test this theory in some near future. My bet is on the parking assist ECU, mainly it's software. I don't see any differences in the ECU itself so maybe I'd be able to grab calibrations from a 2013 escy and flash it to my 2008 Tahoe ECU.
But first I need to do something with the driver's seat not moving properly. Sadly I've recently damaged my spine so no ETA on this.
 
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j1req

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Finally had some time to work on the hoe.
Escy 2012+ power tilt steering column took its place, ofc with memory. The swap is pretty much straightforward: look into the schematics and add the missing wires. Previously I had to jump everything together to make sure it will work as I still was waiting for the connectors to show up. The only caveat here is that my hoe is 2008 so 4l60e trans (the 4 speed), had to cut some of the plastics on the column for the shifter to be able to go into 3-2-1. Ain't pretty but it works.

The seat problems were indeed caused by some loose connection. Cleaned everything up and it never bothered me again.

My city royally messed up a speed bump's height while repairing the road near my workshop and several days ago I hit it while moving 20 mph max. I shit you not the hoe was airborne for a split second. The next thing I heard is a crack somewhere inside the dash and a loud clank inside the radio. The radio stopped playing CDs after that and dash was rattling like crazy so I had to take a look into it ASAP.

It turns out A FLEX CABLE INSIDE THE RADIO CAME LOOSE BECAUSE OF THE IMPACT. The rattling's cause was a bit more dramatic: my dash cracked under the right "platinum" trim and one of the air ducts' mount snapped. Since I had to remove the upper dash panel to repair all this shit I decided to take it as an opportunity to add a bit of sound deadening (I still can't figure out why I hadn't done it while the dash was being assembled the first time). It was a PITA to reach the snapped duct mount so no photos here, but the repair is pretty straightforward: take a wire and melt it into the plastic with a soldering iron, then add some glue as necessary. It's a surprise how many people don't know this trick. Was able to take a picture of it while repairing the dash's crack though. And while in there noticed a missing bolt in another duct's mount, that may had contributed to rattling as well so that's fixed too. Overall I'll consider that as a nicely spent 6 hours.

Btw turns out I'm not the only one who took damage from that speed bump. Locals are already suing the city but I don't think I'm eligible for any compensation so I'll leave it to them.

The mistery of parking guide lines is also solved: as I told beforehand, I've got a huge ton of spares form this whole endeavor. Some of it are 3 different steering wheel angle sensors. While swapping the steering column I've tested all three and looks like the guide lines are showing with the one from 2013 escy and don't want to show with either 2008 hoe or 2009 escy one. All three seems to be working with the hoe but my ABS module recently stopped working so I'll leave replacing the steering angle sensor for later when I'll be able to make sure it won't affect stabilitrack.

It's a pity that these trucks becoming old enough to have a huge ton of electrical problems on their own. Makes debugging everything after so many modifications much much harder.
 

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