OP
OP
And yes she is bleeding to death but I keep donating my own blood
89Suburban/PAW PAW's 07 Tahoe Redneck Mod Thread
- Thread starter 89Suburban
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OP
OP
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Where's she leaking from?
Also, looks so much better. Good job brother. Glad you got it done before the weather. Just started snowing here about 30 min ago. Grass is covered and starting to stick to the road.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I realized I was too late cuz I didn't log in yesterday. But, if those isolators you were asking about are really that thick (to add 1/2"), you can remove them. Just slip some heater hose over the first coil of the spring cuz you don't want metal-on-metal. I've never known the isolators to be more than maybe 1/8" thick and not worth removing. Maybe I just had thinner ones or looked at 'em differently.
OP
OP
Rear main or oil pan
OP
OP
I used new isolators all good.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Have you done the updated valve cover? That seems like an excessive leak and thought if you hadn't changed the cover, it may be building crankcase pressure and making the leak worse
OP
OP
Updated valve cover, catch can, new VLOM, billet oil pressure block off. Only thing left is front seal/oil pan/or rear main. It leaked a full quart this past week. I have to top it off every Sunday. My parking spots look like grease pits. Sick of it.
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Good mechanic can have that rear main seal swapped in a day, if it's on a lift. That sucks buddy
OP
OP
Should I bother with such high mileage? I'd rather just get the new engine and be done with it. Start saving for a trans refresh afterwards.
randeez
Full Access Member
thats quite a bit of oil to be losing at a time
2wd? makes scooting the trans back 10x easier
the RMS itself comes complete with the rear plate and takes about 10min to swap
2wd? makes scooting the trans back 10x easier
the RMS itself comes complete with the rear plate and takes about 10min to swap
Last edited:
OP
OP
4WD.
randeez
Full Access Member
qt/week is prob cheaper
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Does the engine run good otherwise? If so, I would just say do the rear main seal and keep on trukin'. That's a lot of oil loss.
The seal itself is very inexpensive. It's all the work though. If this was a rusty piece of junk, probably not worth it, just keep topping it off. But your truck looks pretty clean. I'd go for the rear main seal.
OTOH, a fresh new engine/transmission is a good amount of cash.
OP
OP
I did contemplate fulling the front diff/shaft/axles to at least put a new pan gasket and see if that makes any kind of difference. At least cut it in half. Plus the p/u tube o-ring and oil deflector. I just keep getting this feeling I am on borrowed time with the valve train.
randeez
Full Access Member
when you walk out there one day and its not leaking oil anymore...thats when you need to worry about it
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
I would fix it. If you have valvetrain issues, that's on the top. Slide the trans back, replace the RMS and put it back together.
randeez
Full Access Member
yea ok buddy, mfer i been waiting on you to fix that avalanche suspension for 2 years now
pwtr02ss
Full Access Member
Hey now, you can't rush perfection
Also, I did rebuild my engine and trans in less time than I've had your lowering parts :armscrossed:
OP
OP
Build one for mine and I'll drive down and you install it.
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