7,500-mile Maximum OLM oil change interval (OCI)

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j91z28d1

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eh.. this not really how oil filters work in real life. there was an interesting webinar with a Baldwin engineer. 2 hours of nerdy stuff.

filter don't stop things 100% at the size they rate too. loose numbers but like say 15 micron rating, it doesn't mean it stops 100% of everything flowing thru it at 15m. it might only stop 50% of it or less, the media holes are all different sizes. so they don't *fill up" ******. they are more effective to bigger particles.

as for bypass filters, Donjetman installed one on his tahoe over the lock down. he's really good about test data from oil samples. lots to learn from his posts even thou this can be kinda cryptic and you gotta spend 6 months of your life in a filter design/oil make up rabbit hole to make it make sense.

in the end, there was zero benefit from having it and ended up removing the system. it's only really beneficial for diesel soot removal and even then I had up until a few years ago many 30 year old diesel engines that ran almost every day for hours in end to ones that just sit for months and have to run when needed (arguably harder on the engine). for 20 years without bypass filters. never any issues with the bottom end of engines, just change oil and filter every 400h or 1 year which ever comes first.

my feeling is bypass filter would do zero on new gas engines. most people, myself includied run a wix xp filter on everything up until a few years. now I started using better micron rated fitlets but still wix xp are mostly rated at 40 micron at the best and horrible efficiency rating at that. they do the worst in basically any good filter testing. but again that's all I've ever used on my cars, some of which went will over 300k and everything at work. we still use wix or a rebrand on everything except tor Cummins fuel filter, I try my best to get everyone to use oem fuel filters on the new ones. but oil filters? same only napa rebranded wix used for the last 40 years.


as for oil lasting.. oil pump sheer absolutely kills oil, synthetic or not. it breaks it down rather quickly actually viscosity wise. different pumps more or less based on design, but they all damaged oil over time.


as for the carbon credit stuff, I don't pretend to read deep into all that, but basically carbon credits was a way around building cleaner stuff yourself. a manufacturer can leave their junk dirty but buy carbon credits from another company that is cleaner to offset it and as a way of pushing the industry forward. take a look at tesla, they are crashing and burning world wide, profits were in the tank but were able to cash in tons of credits sold to keep their earnings call sounding good and market propped up this least this round. how long they can do that, I don't know because I'm not sure they have to disclose how many credits they have sold over the years. but for years it was a bridge for the big 3 as they kept selling vehicles that didn't reach standards, it was cheaper to buy offsets.

there's a lot more to it of course, but people love fancy new trucks. so they keep buying them.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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eh.. this not really how oil filters work in real life. there was an interesting webinar with a Baldwin engineer. 2 hours of nerdy stuff.

filter don't stop things 100% at the size they rate too. loose numbers but like say 15 micron rating, it doesn't mean it stops 100% of everything flowing thru it at 15m. it might only stop 50% of it or less, the media holes are all different sizes. so they don't *fill up" ******. they are more effective to bigger particles.

as for bypass filters, Donjetman installed one on his tahoe over the lock down. he's really good about test data from oil samples. lots to learn from his posts even thou this can be kinda cryptic and you gotta spend 6 months of your life in a filter design/oil make up rabbit hole to make it make sense.

in the end, there was zero benefit from having it and ended up removing the system. it's only really beneficial for diesel soot removal and even then I had up until a few years ago many 30 year old diesel engines that ran almost every day for hours in end to ones that just sit for months and have to run when needed (arguably harder on the engine). for 20 years without bypass filters. never any issues with the bottom end of engines, just change oil and filter every 400h or 1 year which ever comes first.

my feeling is bypass filter would do zero on new gas engines. most people, myself includied run a wix xp filter on everything up until a few years. now I started using better micron rated fitlets but still wix xp are mostly rated at 40 micron at the best and horrible efficiency rating at that. they do the worst in basically any good filter testing. but again that's all I've ever used on my cars, some of which went will over 300k and everything at work. we still use wix or a rebrand on everything except tor Cummins fuel filter, I try my best to get everyone to use oem fuel filters on the new ones. but oil filters? same only napa rebranded wix used for the last 40 years.


as for oil lasting.. oil pump sheer absolutely kills oil, synthetic or not. it breaks it down rather quickly actually viscosity wise. different pumps more or less based on design, but they all damaged oil over time.


as for the carbon credit stuff, I don't pretend to read deep into all that, but basically carbon credits was a way around building cleaner stuff yourself. a manufacturer can leave their junk dirty but buy carbon credits from another company that is cleaner to offset it and as a way of pushing the industry forward. take a look at tesla, they are crashing and burning world wide, profits were in the tank but were able to cash in tons of credits sold to keep their earnings call sounding good and market propped up this least this round. how long they can do that, I don't know because I'm not sure they have to disclose how many credits they have sold over the years. but for years it was a bridge for the big 3 as they kept selling vehicles that didn't reach standards, it was cheaper to buy offsets.

there's a lot more to it of course, but people love fancy new trucks. so they keep buying them.
@j91z28d1 I generally agree with most of what you said here.
Thanks for taking the time and effort.

@rdezs not so much, but good try.

Again, for everyone here at TYE, BITOG is your friend. A journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step.
 

ReaperHWK

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I do 5k or less on any vehicle I have and I use full synthetic. Never had any motor issues. My highest mileage is a 2006 ford with 220k miles and it doesn’t burn a drop of oil.

Also a 2015 Tahoe with AFM active since new with 170k miles. Also trouble free.
 

the 18th letter

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I’m in the 5k max oil change interval but it’s usually at about 3.5k when the OLM is at around 50%. The time I got closest to 5k the OLM was at 32%. My 15 doesn’t use much oil between changes at all. By the time for a change it’s a 1/4 qt low and I’ll mix MMO and reg 0-20 and top it off the day before the change and go for a spirited drive. I do the same in the 99 but it burns a a quart between changes. Some is from leaking but I’ll use the rest of the mmo 0-20 mix in it and run it up the highway good. I do my own changes when it’s in the warmer months and have a shop I trust for colder months.
 

j91z28d1

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I do 5k or less on any vehicle I have and I use full synthetic. Never had any motor issues. My highest mileage is a 2006 ford with 220k miles and it doesn’t burn a drop of oil.

Also a 2015 Tahoe with AFM active since new with 170k miles. Also trouble free.


that's good milage for afm. gave you had it since new? curious of type of oil/filter and change mileage if you don't mind sharing.
 

ReaperHWK

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that's good milage for afm. gave you had it since new? curious of type of oil/filter and change mileage if you don't mind sharing.

No I got it when it had 90k from a rental company. I assume they had a mechanic that changed the oil per the maintenance schedule.

I just use whatever full synthetic is on sale lol. Mostly Mobil 1, Castrol is what my Local store bundles. Oil filter also whatever the cheapest extended mileage ones(I think they are usually Mobil 1 filters) Believe the filters say 10k/15k miles but I change in 5k.


I also have my toy car which is a hellcat and I use the best oil for that car, which to me is the penzoil ultra platinum.
 

the 18th letter

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I don’t think many people consider driving style or conditions when changing oil. If you “meet the fockers” every stop light with a lot of city driving I would probobly change it every 2.5k, whereas if I’m cruising at 75mph 90% of my driving I’d prolly wait until 5k all the time.
 

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