7,500-mile Maximum OLM oil change interval (OCI)

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donjetman

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Included with the 2012 TSB 11-06-04007C for 08-11 GM vehicles, equipped with Engine RPO LFA, LY2, L20, LMG, LC9, LH6, LMF, LH8, LH9, L76, LS2, LY5, LY6, L92, L96, LZ1, L94 or L9H, they will receive the enhanced oil life monitor (OLM) algorithm as part of the new ECM calibration. The enhanced OLM algorithm will provide a maximum mileage of 7,500miles (12,000km) between oil changes.

I knew this but had forgotten where I had seen it.

Our 07 w/L92 does not have this enhanced OLM algorithm.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/MC-10138192-9999.pdf
 

Marky Dissod

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The enhanced OLM algorithm will provide a maximum mileage of 7,500miles (12,000km) between oil changes.
Does this represent an increase or a decrease?
7,500 miles still seems a bit much.
Our 07 w/L92 does not have this enhanced OLM algorithm.
Don't think HP Tuners includes the Oil Life Monitor parameters, so, only GM can tune them, I guess?
 

Marky Dissod

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Does this represent an increase or a decrease?
7,500 miles still seems a bit much.
A big decrease, like 40-50% less.
So, before GM improved the OLM-gorithm, it could've been 15,000 miles between oil changes?
Did anyone else's eyeballs get REALLY big?

IN THEORY, I COULD imagine ...
if I start up after an oil & filter change, drive from there to my next O&F change
100% highway miles between 40MpH & 70MpH til the gas almost runs out,
stopping only for petrol, never ever letting the engine get too cold, no stop'n'go,
and not getting much sleep, then, 7500 miles between O&F changes might make some sense?

(Anyone notice that, the better the average MpGs between oil changes,
the longer you can safely go between oil changes?
Doesn't that seem so much simpler and easier to calculate on the back of a napkin,
vs GM's Oil Life Monitor's excessively complex algorithm that HP Tuners can't or won't tune?)
7,500 is a bit much for my L92.
7,500 between oil & filter changes is a bit much for ANY engine,
even an engine no one enjoys or respects or cares for.
 

j91z28d1

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there's a guy with a dodge on the oil forum that went crazy mileage. donjetman shared the link, dude pulled oil samples and just kept driving till it showed engine wear. it was something like 20 to 30k?


my old 2002 ls1 car, I used any old oil and always changed it when the dash said or even well after. well over a 100k on it when it go stolen and everything looked and sounded good. never cracked seal on it. only cut the filters open randomly.

10k is fine for a well build engine. sadly we just kinda gotta admit that gm forgot how to build a well made engine with the Gen 4 and has been all down hill from there.

so we gotta cover for that with 3k mile changes like they did in the 70s with really low quality oils, oil filters that weren't good by today's standards and carbs that ran super rich when cold. engines and trannys got much better from there and then all hat knowledge was lost and we've come full circle at 8 times the price.
 

Marky Dissod

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... just kinda gotta admit that gm
forgot
how to build a well made engine with the Gen 4 and has been all down hill from there.
Forgot? Usually tend to agree with you, but this time, emphatically no.
GM not only added unnecessary complexities, not only did they not bother to improve the ring package,
they also went looking so much harder than they have in the past to pinch pennies,
that they skipped the final post-assembly cleaning step,
and let tens of thousands of 6.2L V8s out on the showroom floor with sand in their britches.

GM did not forget schidt. GM INTENTIONALLY went all Boeing on their 6.2L V8s
(yet, somehow, not the 'vette 6.2L V8s which are nearly identical).
 

j91z28d1

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that's fair.. I was being nice haha.


Ambition outweighed engineering Talent? with a side effect of being cheap.


about the same thing that brought Boeing down too. only the stakes are much higher with badly engineered planes. I believe the corvettes all got the 0w40 m1 super car label and a higher bypass psi filter. I'd have to look if the base LT car got the dry sump or not, the older c6/7 zo6 got the dry sump to try and keep rods in them in long corners
 

Marky Dissod

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Again, slight disagreement: the ambition was, to be cheap.
If the only hardware difference between the LT1 & the L86 was the intake manifold,
but the LT1 spec'd 0W40 vs the L86 & L87 spec'ing 0W20,
that alone already says they are more interested in CAFE MpG credits than engine protection,
which they THOUGHT they could STILL get away with,
even after going cheap on the L87s' bearings and skipping the L87s' last cleanings.

As if GM don't already make enough profit to begin with?
Guess they found out how much cheaper they could get away with making L87s vs LT1s.

LT1s might be wet sump; LT2s are DEFINITELY dry sump.
 

rdezs

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I don't care what engine it is, most oil filters only filter down to 15 microns give or take. Which means say by say 3,500 miles you have a lot of junk floating around that passes right through the filter, that adds to wear on the bearings. By 7,000 miles you can double the amount of junk floating around eroding your bearings.

The exception to the rule is for example, the amsoil bypass filter. Down to something like two microns. And that is something that any OEM manufacturer can build into their vehicle if they wanted to. Which raises the question as to why they choose not to? On a $70,000 vehicle, what's an extra $400 to double or quadruple the engine life?

Obviously GM, as well as other manufacturers, do not want to build engines that routinely hit 700,000 miles. They need people to keep coming back and purchasing new vehicles once theirs is worn out.

With today's synthetic oils, it's not even a question of the oil wearing out. It's a question of how polluted it has become in the engine. Those pollutants are microscopically sandblasting your bearings. And the same goes for transmissions as well. I run an aftermarket spin on hydraulic filter in the return line from the cooler on each vehicle we have. And how about those transmission filters they put in the pan? What are they, 100 micron rating? Pointless.

I also ponder if they get some sort of carbon credit by extending oil change intervals in the vehicles they produce. It's a win-win for them no matter how you look at it. They probably get some sort of Green New Deal carbon credit, plus the vehicles wear out sooner. So they can sell more cars as well as parts. We're the ones that get taken to the cleaners.

The recent recall on the 2021 models and newer is just a case where they realize they went too far.

There's no way in hell I would buy another new vehicle at this point. When politics takes a priority over common Sense engineering, why would anyone want to spend money on that? Anyone can take an LS engine and build it better than GM did, and disregard the political recommendations of the factory and end up with the vehicle that lasts a lot longer.... For a lot less money than what a new vehicle costs.
 

j91z28d1

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eh.. this not really how oil filters work in real life. there was an interesting webinar with a Baldwin engineer. 2 hours of nerdy stuff.

filter don't stop things 100% at the size they rate too. loose numbers but like say 15 micron rating, it doesn't mean it stops 100% of everything flowing thru it at 15m. it might only stop 50% of it or less, the media holes are all different sizes. so they don't *fill up" ******. they are more effective to bigger particles.

as for bypass filters, Donjetman installed one on his tahoe over the lock down. he's really good about test data from oil samples. lots to learn from his posts even thou this can be kinda cryptic and you gotta spend 6 months of your life in a filter design/oil make up rabbit hole to make it make sense.

in the end, there was zero benefit from having it and ended up removing the system. it's only really beneficial for diesel soot removal and even then I had up until a few years ago many 30 year old diesel engines that ran almost every day for hours in end to ones that just sit for months and have to run when needed (arguably harder on the engine). for 20 years without bypass filters. never any issues with the bottom end of engines, just change oil and filter every 400h or 1 year which ever comes first.

my feeling is bypass filter would do zero on new gas engines. most people, myself includied run a wix xp filter on everything up until a few years. now I started using better micron rated fitlets but still wix xp are mostly rated at 40 micron at the best and horrible efficiency rating at that. they do the worst in basically any good filter testing. but again that's all I've ever used on my cars, some of which went will over 300k and everything at work. we still use wix or a rebrand on everything except tor Cummins fuel filter, I try my best to get everyone to use oem fuel filters on the new ones. but oil filters? same only napa rebranded wix used for the last 40 years.


as for oil lasting.. oil pump sheer absolutely kills oil, synthetic or not. it breaks it down rather quickly actually viscosity wise. different pumps more or less based on design, but they all damaged oil over time.


as for the carbon credit stuff, I don't pretend to read deep into all that, but basically carbon credits was a way around building cleaner stuff yourself. a manufacturer can leave their junk dirty but buy carbon credits from another company that is cleaner to offset it and as a way of pushing the industry forward. take a look at tesla, they are crashing and burning world wide, profits were in the tank but were able to cash in tons of credits sold to keep their earnings call sounding good and market propped up this least this round. how long they can do that, I don't know because I'm not sure they have to disclose how many credits they have sold over the years. but for years it was a bridge for the big 3 as they kept selling vehicles that didn't reach standards, it was cheaper to buy offsets.

there's a lot more to it of course, but people love fancy new trucks. so they keep buying them.
 
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donjetman

donjetman

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eh.. this not really how oil filters work in real life. there was an interesting webinar with a Baldwin engineer. 2 hours of nerdy stuff.

filter don't stop things 100% at the size they rate too. loose numbers but like say 15 micron rating, it doesn't mean it stops 100% of everything flowing thru it at 15m. it might only stop 50% of it or less, the media holes are all different sizes. so they don't *fill up" ******. they are more effective to bigger particles.

as for bypass filters, Donjetman installed one on his tahoe over the lock down. he's really good about test data from oil samples. lots to learn from his posts even thou this can be kinda cryptic and you gotta spend 6 months of your life in a filter design/oil make up rabbit hole to make it make sense.

in the end, there was zero benefit from having it and ended up removing the system. it's only really beneficial for diesel soot removal and even then I had up until a few years ago many 30 year old diesel engines that ran almost every day for hours in end to ones that just sit for months and have to run when needed (arguably harder on the engine). for 20 years without bypass filters. never any issues with the bottom end of engines, just change oil and filter every 400h or 1 year which ever comes first.

my feeling is bypass filter would do zero on new gas engines. most people, myself includied run a wix xp filter on everything up until a few years. now I started using better micron rated fitlets but still wix xp are mostly rated at 40 micron at the best and horrible efficiency rating at that. they do the worst in basically any good filter testing. but again that's all I've ever used on my cars, some of which went will over 300k and everything at work. we still use wix or a rebrand on everything except tor Cummins fuel filter, I try my best to get everyone to use oem fuel filters on the new ones. but oil filters? same only napa rebranded wix used for the last 40 years.


as for oil lasting.. oil pump sheer absolutely kills oil, synthetic or not. it breaks it down rather quickly actually viscosity wise. different pumps more or less based on design, but they all damaged oil over time.


as for the carbon credit stuff, I don't pretend to read deep into all that, but basically carbon credits was a way around building cleaner stuff yourself. a manufacturer can leave their junk dirty but buy carbon credits from another company that is cleaner to offset it and as a way of pushing the industry forward. take a look at tesla, they are crashing and burning world wide, profits were in the tank but were able to cash in tons of credits sold to keep their earnings call sounding good and market propped up this least this round. how long they can do that, I don't know because I'm not sure they have to disclose how many credits they have sold over the years. but for years it was a bridge for the big 3 as they kept selling vehicles that didn't reach standards, it was cheaper to buy offsets.

there's a lot more to it of course, but people love fancy new trucks. so they keep buying them.
@j91z28d1 I generally agree with most of what you said here.
Thanks for taking the time and effort.

@rdezs not so much, but good try.

Again, for everyone here at TYE, BITOG is your friend. A journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step.
 

ReaperHWK

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I do 5k or less on any vehicle I have and I use full synthetic. Never had any motor issues. My highest mileage is a 2006 ford with 220k miles and it doesn’t burn a drop of oil.

Also a 2015 Tahoe with AFM active since new with 170k miles. Also trouble free.
 

the 18th letter

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I’m in the 5k max oil change interval but it’s usually at about 3.5k when the OLM is at around 50%. The time I got closest to 5k the OLM was at 32%. My 15 doesn’t use much oil between changes at all. By the time for a change it’s a 1/4 qt low and I’ll mix MMO and reg 0-20 and top it off the day before the change and go for a spirited drive. I do the same in the 99 but it burns a a quart between changes. Some is from leaking but I’ll use the rest of the mmo 0-20 mix in it and run it up the highway good. I do my own changes when it’s in the warmer months and have a shop I trust for colder months.
 

j91z28d1

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I do 5k or less on any vehicle I have and I use full synthetic. Never had any motor issues. My highest mileage is a 2006 ford with 220k miles and it doesn’t burn a drop of oil.

Also a 2015 Tahoe with AFM active since new with 170k miles. Also trouble free.


that's good milage for afm. gave you had it since new? curious of type of oil/filter and change mileage if you don't mind sharing.
 

ReaperHWK

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that's good milage for afm. gave you had it since new? curious of type of oil/filter and change mileage if you don't mind sharing.

No I got it when it had 90k from a rental company. I assume they had a mechanic that changed the oil per the maintenance schedule.

I just use whatever full synthetic is on sale lol. Mostly Mobil 1, Castrol is what my Local store bundles. Oil filter also whatever the cheapest extended mileage ones(I think they are usually Mobil 1 filters) Believe the filters say 10k/15k miles but I change in 5k.


I also have my toy car which is a hellcat and I use the best oil for that car, which to me is the penzoil ultra platinum.
 

the 18th letter

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I don’t think many people consider driving style or conditions when changing oil. If you “meet the fockers” every stop light with a lot of city driving I would probobly change it every 2.5k, whereas if I’m cruising at 75mph 90% of my driving I’d prolly wait until 5k all the time.
 

j91z28d1

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No I got it when it had 90k from a rental company. I assume they had a mechanic that changed the oil per the maintenance schedule.

I just use whatever full synthetic is on sale lol. Mostly Mobil 1, Castrol is what my Local store bundles. Oil filter also whatever the cheapest extended mileage ones(I think they are usually Mobil 1 filters) Believe the filters say 10k/15k miles but I change in 5k.


I also have my toy car which is a hellcat and I use the best oil for that car, which to me is the penzoil ultra platinum.


that's interesting.
 

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